tall_tog

dont have a dongle , didnt know you could do that , thanks for the heads up on that. will pop to local guy who does my servicing to see if they can read the code today

should my 2005 outback 2.5 manual have the hill start clutch feature? i thought it was standard but this one doesn't seem to have it

HI All , new to here although not new to subarus and i've been hiding in the forester forum for 6 months but just couldn't get on with it so have returned to an outback Anyway - I have the check engine light after a 30 mile drive , stopped at shop, started it back up and the CEL stayed on. I've seen a lot of mention of it being to do with the fuel cap not being tight enough or leaking pressure, is this an urban myth or fact? I've opened it closed and tightened until a good couple of clicks but the light is still on. Car drives totally unaffected Going back to where i bought it tomorrow so they can plug it in and clear the memory then see what happens thanks

Morning all, sad to say i just couldn't get on with the forester after 6 months and have gone back to an outback. thanks to those that helped with my various queries over that time I'm off to the outback forum to start asking questions all over again!

finally sourced a replacement motor - old one completely burnt out and surprised it hadn't gone on fire! Anyone thinking of doing this , allow a good couple of hours , its a sod of a job! everything has to come off the door and the glass is bolted through as well ! anyway, the white plug that connects to the switch panel has some loose pins and i still have connection problems to the drivers window. What is the best way to firm up the connections within the white plug please?

thanks Mr B, is there any difference between earlier than 2005 regulators, seems to be big differences in price on ebay but looking at pics they seem to be same?

Had an issue with this window since i bought the car in may, sometimes after pressing the switch there would be a delay before the window went down, sometimes it wouldnt go down without pressing switch a couple of times. Sods law whilst away on holiday last week, it just stopped working. The switch clicks still as if the window is going down but isn't. Have googled this and by all accounts changing the regulator isn't for the feint hearted. Given the switch unit is a circuit board , is there a way to test the switch and the motor to make sure it is the motor before i buy a replacement? i was thinking i would identify the wiring going to the regulator motor and try and test them when the switch was activated? any other/better suggestions welcome! thanks

no its not diff whine, its more of a ticking noise and only when not under power e.g slowing down or braking

next up on my things to look at since sorting the climate control panel.... when i lift off throttle , mainly at low speeds 30-40mph there's a sort of ticking/whirring noise, similar to a bike free wheeling is best way to describe it, coming from front end somewhere. apply power and it goes away. have tried going in to neutral and it doesn't;t entirely go away but is less obvious. any ideas please? thanks

final update for anyone else that experiences this issue the root of the problem is the circuit board behind the control dials. Straightforward unscrewing and unclipping the centre panel with vents and drink holder, disconnnect the plugs for hazard lights and the two plugs for heater controls, then four screws to remove the heater control box. finally little screws to remove the cover and get to the circuit board there are three little blue covers on this board and the fault with mine was that two of them had come loose allowing a tiny little very fragile circular circuit that fits over a small lug on each of the dials to come off and not be in contact with the main circuit board - hence no air con or fan After changing to a replacement control box a similar issue happened so today I've stripped it all down and put a small drop of superglue on each of these little covers to hold the circular things in place - be careful not to stick these too as they need to rotate! all is working again just fine hope this helps

thanks , fingers crossed a replacement control unit from ebay fixes the probelm when it arrives tomorrow, it better as away for a week in car !

think i am right in saying there is the main cat then further forward there's another smaller filter. when i got mine couple of months back it rattled like hell when pulling away. garage said it was a secondary cat and it wouldn't affect emissions/mot pass if they removed and welded in a piece of pipe instead. I opted to split the exhaust at the join just at the back of it and discovered a ceramic honeycomb type thing inside had broken up and that was the rattle. bit of carefull tapping with a jack handle then started car up and it all came flying out - silence!

quick update - auto electrician checked this over for me last week. took a while but in the end he reckons its the control panel as all the wiring checks out ok. is this likely to be the case? common fault? thanks

hit a bump coming home and it burst in to life for couple of minutes then died again !

took dash console out and checked they were connected fully to back of controls - all ok fuses are definitely all ok the relay for a/c is in the engine bay box and have removed and put back - still nothing when i turn the temp up to full or cold after a few seconds there's a click and the engine idle drops then it clicks again and engine picks up as if it trying but failing going to have to be an auto electrician job i think

yes , all good in there too

fuses inside and under bonnet all look good, havent pulled the relay yet is that a possible cause or should i be looking at connections behind the panel?

noticed the other day my climate control had gone off completely. no heated rear screen no air con no fan couple of minutes later it all came back on did it again next day but took about 15 minutes before it came on today drove 50 miles with windows down and roof open to keep the hounds cool, pulled in to the street and it came on, turned the car off then back on and noting working again anything obvious to check/replace please?

the 'after' surgery bottom lift shot ! thanks for all your help

happy days ! garage just called to say the shocks on the car are the correct ones and are pretty new so no need to change, but the new springs are stiffer and about a coil longer than the ones on the car so it will definitely lift it up. They're working on it now will update finally once i pick it up and see what it looks like

thanks all for your help fingers crossed it is just the springs but if not then so be it all parts & fitting being quoted at £340 being done Monday so will let you know how it all pans out !

update - garage are unable to find the numbers on the struts or springs but agree its sagging they're prices are pretty close to those on ebay so what we've decided to do is get the shocks and springs and if the shocks turn out to be the same they can be returned an i only pay for springs are the boots worth getting? I do carry some kit around each week not overly heavy but heavy enough thanks Andy

got it i think UPC 781552013259 Weight 11.5600 Brand KYB Part Series Excel-G Part Number 334344 Cross Reference Currently Unavailable Mfg. Name Suspension Strut Assembly Mfg. Description Gas Strut Extended Length 24.88 Compressed Length 17.91 Stroke 6.91 - See more at: http://www.shocks.com/kyb-334344-excel-g-strut.html#sthash.khIS2n6N.dpuf SPRINGS · Thickness/Strength 1 [mm]: 13,5 · Outer Diameter [mm]: 160 · Weight [kg]: 2,79 · Length [mm]: 359 · Parameter: AC

thanks ive got all the part numbers from the other thread , but any measurements or info i can give them would be good thanks

car is booked in for tomorrow garage seemed a little confused by my explanation and didn't seem to think it was possible to put wrong springs on. do you happen to have any dimensions or specs for the correct shocks and springs before he tells me i need both? thanks