farmerpug

Got the clutch changed, got a blueprint kit for £80, a bit of a good deal i think, took the gearbox out and left the engine in place not too hard all bolts came out easily enough. the service history had a clutch kit at 150k and the previous mechanic was kind enough to use copper grease on the bolts, i just snapped the front lower balljoint bolt putting it back in: The old one: The gearbox lost some oil during the change, what sort of oil do these gearboxes take?

Ah right handy enough, a bit like an old jeep then but with front driveshafts, the gearbox drops out. I thought the engine would need to come out, but this shouldnt be too bad, rusty bolts aside. Hello Gambit, yep havent really done much work on the forester it doesn't really give much trouble, its been great fun round the fields that probably caused the clutch to finally let go.

The clutch has completley let go in the old forester, i see replacement clutch kits on ebay about £80 upwards, are there any particular ones to avoid? Also how much work is it to get the clutch out of a forester, ive only done a few clutches mostly on small fwd cars, with the 4x4 system is it handier to remove the engine or the gearbox?

Fords are quite good at rusting all over especially the old smiley transit; very strong mechanically but very rusty. I dont know why they dont just come with an aluminium/alloy sump from the factory. Im thinking of getting a bit of 5mm plate plasma cut at work and making a bit of a sump guard that bolts up into whatever free bolts there are sitting under the car, i think getting another dinge would be more likely to happen to this new sump than it rusting away.

I wonder does many people get sumps zinc plated, i just got a load of parts for the 305 sandblasted and plated, the finish seems very good, but i wonder would it withstand the heat from the engine?

I got it a bottle of 10w 40 and a new filter, almost a full service. Its back in the mushroom house, but its good to be able to move it again: Its got a new bit of cardboard sitting under it now to see if the oil leak has been cured, the old sump leaked quite a bit of oil out but it was easy to see it weeping.

Its semi synthetic, just the oil i put in the 406.

I fitted the sump this evening, the back bolts are a bit ackward to get at, but putting a jack under the engine and lifting it up gives just enough clearance to undo the bolts: One question though, what sort of oil does these subarus take, ive tonnes of 10w 40 lying about but i dont want to put it into the subaru if it will do damage

I didnt film it, it was a bit unexpected although its the same ditch the car went into the last time. I found the engine code in quite a handy and obvious place, the vin plate: Its an EJ20J

Is there an Identification plate on the engine that has the engine code that way i might be able to check. Its been caused either by the rust or another meeting with a ditch, which caused some damage: I have got a new wing, and mirror for the car, but its a good job i havent fitted it yet :)

I noticed today that the Forester had a fairly noticeable oil leak under it, i took a closer look under it and it looks like the sump has got rusty and is leaking oil through the rusty area, since most of the sump is rusty it doesn't look like there is much point in trying to weld it up as it would just leak again. Would a sump from a 1995 Imprezza Fit the forester: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-SUBARU-IMPREZA-2-0-PETROL-OIL-SUMP-PAN-/221454750036?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338fbb5154

A bit off topic but i bought myself another car, a 1985 Peugeot 305 Estate: It has bits of rust here and there, (nothing structural though it still passed its MOT before i bought it), so i will definatley be getting a mig welder to sort it out, so the forester can also get its rusty bodywork addressed at the same time.

Thanks for that link i think i used this last year for the knock sensor, it actually seems like a good setup having a diagnostics setup like this. The MOTs here in NI are much stricter than they are in england, all the stations are run by the DVLNI so there is no case of a friendly mot tester letting you away on anything, its good for anyone buying a car second hand, but its a nuisance when trying to put the car through, my 406 failed last year on the alignment of the headlight being out. \

Its running a bit lean at the moment and without any way to get a scanner to read i can't tell if its an 02 sensor problem, its only used across fields so i wouldn't want to spend a big pile on it, (can the forester pass emissions tests if it had no cat?) The damage is still there, i took the wing off and pushed the dent out, and treated the exposed metal to some zinc paint to stop the rust, tbh ill leave off doing any serious repairs until i get a mig welder ideally the rust above the windscreen and rear sills needs cut out and new metal welded in. i still use it mainly to store tools in the boot, and because i do most of the tinkering at cars when i get home from work i thought it would be useful to add some lights:

What way are the pre 2001 cars remapped, does the ECU need taken out of the car and sent away or can it be done through the obd like port under the steering wheel?