Phila67

That coolant tank sitting on top of the intake manifold near the turbo? That's to cool off your turbo. Unless you've upgraded, the factory turbo is water cooled. It's the reason why most modern turbo cars don't need turbo timers from factory.

header tank

Sorry to sound negative, but would it not have been a good idea to find out this information before you bought it. It could end up costing you a small fortune. Having said that, best thing to do is get yourself on the forums and join some groups. You'll find the Subaru community are generally a really helpful and friendly bunch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kept my oem dump valve on my 2003 wrx mapped at 280. I'm not bothered for the noise of a vta and I tend to think that if the genuine dv wasn't up to the job, subaru wouldn't have fitted it in the first place. Like has already been mentioned, I have heard that changing to vta valves can cause all sorts of running issues. Only my opinion though and there are lots of scooby owners that would argue a case for changing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I am thinking of getting a bit more width to my wheels and rolling the arches. How will this work with the plastic inner arches. Am I right in thinking there will be a gap and will this not just let all the wet and crap in? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I am thinking of getting a bit more width to my wheels and rolling the arches. How will this work with the plastic inner arches. Am I right in thinking there will be a gap and will this not just let all the wet and crap in? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bit of an update. I have always been told that because of the way the battery charges, it's always best to have the lights on when starting the car, so that's what I do. Invariably I just leave them on then. However, today I decided to turn them off and noticed something a little confusing on the gauges. With the lights off the temperature reading dropped 5/6 bar and the oil pressure went up 5/6 bar. For the rest of the time I drove it, not a warning light in sight and the readings appeared a lot more in line with what I would expect. So my question now is, why would having the lights on affect the gauge readings. Presumably something to do with the electrics? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bit of an update. I have always been told that because of the way the battery charges, it's always best to have the lights on when starting the car, so that's what I do. Invariably I just leave them on then. However, today I decided to turn them off and noticed something a little confusing on the gauges. With the lights off the temperature reading dropped 5/6 bar and the oil pressure went up 5/6 bar. For the rest of the time I drove it, not a warning light in sight and the readings appeared a lot more in line with what I would expect. So my question now is, why would having the lights on affect the gauge readings. Presumably something to do with the electrics? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bit of an update. I have always been told that because of the way the battery charges, it's always best to have the lights on when starting the car, so that's what I do. Invariably I just leave them on then. However, today I decided to turn them off and noticed something a little confusing on the gauges. With the lights off the temperature reading dropped 5/6 bar and the oil pressure went up 5/6 bar. For the rest of the time I drove it, not a warning light in sight and the readings appeared a lot more in line with what I would expect. So my question now is, why would having the lights on affect the gauge readings. Presumably something to do with the electrics? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a recent issue with high oil temp and low pressure warnings on my gauges. Problem occurs when at idle. Once driving again the warnings disappear. Fans are all ok. Stripped out the sender unit this weekend and refitted but there appears to be a leak from the silver Colette that fits around the braided pipe. Could this be the issue? Also Been reading some scary stories about the oil pickup pipe in the sump cracking which could also be the problem. Don't really want to run the car till I've got to the bottom of it for fear of doing some serious damage Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I still have issue with high oil temp and low pressure warnings on my gauges. Problem occurs when at idle. Once driving again the warnings disappear. Fans are all ok. Stripped out the sender unit this weekend and refitted but there appears to be a leak from the silver Colette that fits around the braided pipe. Could this be the issue? Also Been reading some scary stories about the oil pickup pipe in the sump cracking which could also be the problem. Don't really want to run the car till I've got to the bottom of it for fear of doing some serious damage Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I still have an ongoing problem with high oil temp and low pressure. Fans are all ok. Stripped out the sender unit this weekend and refitted but there appears to be a leak from the silver Colette that fits around the braided pipe. Could this be the issue Been reading some scary stories about the oil pickup pipe in the sump cracking which could also be the problem. Don't really want to run the car till I've got to the bottom of it for fear of doing some serious damage

Can anyone advise what a rolling road will actually tell me about my scooby Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi all Can anyone advise what a rolling road will actually tell me about my scooby Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Checked my fans and all ok there. After checking the sender unit, there was some weeping from the connection so stripped out and reseated it. Fingers crossed seems to have sorted the pressure problem Going to keep an eye on it and will update. Don't like the sound of a rebuild. Could it be my gauges are inaccurate? I have pro gauges bought off ebay