abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Past couple of days the car has been idling a little rough while cold Once its warm runs fine Had a look around the engine bay for anything obvious but cant see anything Anyone point me in the normal locations to look? What I did see was the lambda sensor on decat downpipe being in place but wire cut off, there are no warning lights on dash. Could this be bypassed in ecu or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 When you say rough, fo you mean erratic or just high upon start up ? If it's just high 12-1500rpm then takes a little to drop below 900 it's normal. Not sure about the lambda, mine was fooked and only threw up a cel light when giving it the beans, not sure if a remap would be able to by pass it. Have you had a look fpr historic codes stored in the ecu by using the green and black plugs under the dash ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 I normally in the morning go out the the car and switch it on, then go in and collect my things for work. Just to give the car a little time to warm up I just start it from outside the car, when I turn the key the car doesn't seem to have a steady enough idle and it conks out. I just start it again and it will start ok but I need to leave it a few minutes for it to run ok Something isn't right somewhere, hoping its an easy fix No I havent had a look for codes. Where about under the dash is the plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2366-Manually-Reading-ECU-Codes Ah ok, maybe running too rich ? Apart from that Mine takes about 5 mins to warm up and settle down think it's just a subaru thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks Will give this a go tomorrow, it wont have any effect on the ecu map will it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Shouldn't do, one pair is a test connector and the other one just puts it into diagnostic mode. The map should be flashed onto the ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 read on that article you just gave me about how to do it that one of connections resets the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Do you know if it's running mafless in which case you do get a bit of idle fluctuation due to the ecu only using the map sensor to calculate the incoming air . Still it shouldn't stall if set up right but if the car was driven to the mappers they wouldn't have been able to map the cold start as it would have been warm before they started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 I don't think it will loose the map though, just plug the black ones in for now and see if the check engine light just throws anything. I've recently had some of the parameters changed at a garage using the subaru select management tool. Did an ecu reset by mistake disconected the Battery for half hour but everything stayed the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Also just had another look and the MAF isn't even plugged in. Surely that's not right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Sent an email to the company who mapped the car, they have come back with this: Martyn would very likely have some stored data on the car, although it may not have much bearing on the way it is right now. Mapping is unequivocal, in that any settings are going to stay the way we left them in terms of relative output. I can only assume it was ok previously, or the man would have been back for another go! Any mapping can only be long term successful if everything associated with the car’s management system remains in good order. The Alcatek has full closed loop idle control and should stay where it’s put. A few examples of failures leading to idle problems; Air leaks from gaskets or hoses MAP sensor faults Throttle pot faults Lambda sensor faults Idle valves sticking Wiring issues Leaking injectors or injector seals Etc.. There have also been rare instances of track failures from the ECUs. You have a couple of choices to deal with it, either bring to us or take it to another person to check it out. If anyone else wants to map the car they can do so, but they need to obtain the codes from Alcatek to allow it, then they have to set it up from scratch. (This isn’t our doing, incidentally) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 If thats engine tuner martyn j then he's a respected scooby specialist (from what I've read). I just thought it was a possibility what with not knowing it's history and the recent drop in temperature . Maybe just have a squint at a few of the things listed above. Check for leaks/perished vacuum pipes. Throttle body is clean. are the spark plugs/service due. Give the idle control valve a clean . Check dumpvalve and fmic pipework are not leaking . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 I just wanted to know what exactly they had done to the car more than anything else I will be replacing the FMIC soon anyway would be handy if that was the problem :) Will also replace the DV at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Right just plugged the black plugs together and I get nothing seems to happen I connected the black plugs Then turned the ignition to on I then have to press my immobiliser for the lights to come on When I do that the car just does its normal Check engine light just stays lit Am I doing something wrong because there is 100% issues with the car somewhere :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Just thinking This wont work will it because I have a Alcatek ecu How do you then look for faults in the system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I've been lucky enough to never have a code come up and I'm unsure if you can self code read aftermarket ecu's . Did you check the vacuum and intake systems for leaks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abzsti Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 I have ordered some new silicon vacuum pipe. Just going to replace them all Also putting it in to a guy who lives close at the end of a month to have a good run over it. He knows his impreza's so hopefully get to the bottom of everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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