mart360 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 3.0 R with a strange noise. At speeds below 30 mph, the car is silent, once i hit 40+ there is noise in the cabin, akin to tyre drone, outside the car, silence .. it carrys on to 60mph, and then diminishes, by 70 and above its gone, if im in the noise zone, and turn the steering wheel into a bend the noise dissapears, but returns when the wheels come back to straight ahead. ive tried the figure of 8 maneuvers in car parks with no apparant binding, but occasionaly i detect a slight clonk when on full lock (CV joint) but only on hard full lock Front tyres are geolanders with good tread, rears are a mix with good tread. i looked for the fuse to put the car into 2wd, but couldnt spot it to try that out Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 wheel bearing ! On a straight road get in the 'noise zone' and rock the car right to left quite swiftly & see if noise goes away as load range on wheel hubs change. Could be tyres as well winding up transmission which gets re-leaved on a corner, I have seen a few issues similar due to mix of tyres, it never a good thing on a awd like the subarus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmamba Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Sounds like wheel bearing to me too. What mileage, and have they ever been done? One way to investigate, if you have an infra-red thermometer is to test temperatures of the wheels, any suspicially hotter than others could indicate a bearing on the way out. Binding brakes, unfortunately will also cause elevated wheel temps so not too reliable a test, but there you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Ill give your suggestions a try, Its not a new thing, been doing it since i had the car (12 months), i did a drive to didcot & back a few weeks ago, car is failtless, if it was a WB, shouldt it get worse... It passed it MOT last year and it was making the noise then, no advisorys etc I had the pano roof open today and no obvious noises are coimg from the outside.. Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmamba Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 They don't as a rule go wrong quickly. My experience, for what it's worth is I had a droning noise seemingly coming from the n/s front. Had the car at a garage for some rust removal, asked them to check all w/bearings. They test drove, reported nothing found. Weeks later, car passed MOT at a different garage with no advisories. Still bugged by the drone, I changed the n/s bearing myself with a SKF bearing. Noise gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 ^ as above. due to 4wd & viscous diff you can't spin the wheel freely to here the noise & even when noisy the bearing normally has no play so not easy picked up. I run the vehicles with wheels off ground & use a stethoscope to listen for noise, mix that with a test drive & it normally very easy tell it a bearing & which one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Did a test as indicated ... The noise goes when the car is turned L/R when driving... it goes away on turning to the LH but stays on turning to the RH I tried the thermo after a 7 mile run ... 60C RH 97C LH, but im not sure where i should be aiming the laser / taking the reading.. will try again tommorow over a longer run .. Anyone know the book time for changing one ... ? cant find my autodata cd I know its £130 off for the bearing / hub assy Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 LH front bearing . bearing kit is around £80 to £100 for decent one. I get SNR bearing hubs for around £75 & ADL (blueprint) around £100 Labour is 1hr charge generally ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Did a longer run today and took temps both ways 50-60C LH 40-50C RH just got work out which is the cheaper option - replace the whole hub, or just the bearing... or i could just replace the hub, and keep the old one and replace the bearing myself Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Buy the hub, you can bolt that on easily yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Just an update ... will be chaging the hub tuesday, will keep you posted Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Update - Got the hub to day and we set about fitting it .... Hit big problems when trying to remove the driveshaft from the original hub... it was stuck fast .. attempts to tap it back proved futile, even with the hub nut wound back on to protect the threads. we had to virtually disasemble the whole unit to get things moving and had to resort to a puller in the end ... Looks like the bearing was running very hot, with lots of meted grease residue around the splines ... fitted the new hub, but the drive shaft was diffiicult to reinsert despite wire brushing the splines & re lubing all back together now, but just waiting for a new hub nut, as there wasnt one in the hub kit? We may have had some collateral damage on the driveshaft thread, so worst case it may need a new driveshaft, which isnt good news We'll know more when the hub nut arrives mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 ^ you should be able restore threads a bit with a thread file, if badly mushroomed then a bit of lathe work fixes them, generally don't need new one. Best using a hub mounted shaft removal tool though when real tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart360 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 All done :) we ran a die down the shaft to clear the thread, and the huib is bolted up .. took it out for a test drive .... no rumble ... but hello annoying squeek ( some thing in the cabin is squeeking as the car moves around lol) will clear the car outtoday and see if i can spot what it is and lube it up lol Running the old hub in my hands you can feel its notchy... .. now the question is .. do i buy a bearing kit and refurb this one so i have a spare if the other one fails? .. or just buy a whole new assy ... bearing (lol) in mind the refurb cost is almost as much as a new hub ?? Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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