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Bouncy backend?


mikeymo
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There's a subject to get the pulse racing!

 

I've just bought a 2005 Outback 3.0R. 112,000 miles.

Lots to like.

 

But over certain road surfaces it's a bit bouncy. Things like patched or sometimes just not very even suburban streets. I've done the 'bounce the corner of the car' shock absorber test and it seems OK. Though I'm not sure how reliable that is as a test. A local Subaru main dealer had it in for a health check and that was one of the things I asked them to look at. They declared it 'OK', though that seemed to mean that the shock absorbers weren't leaking. I don't think they actually took it for a drive. They did say a rear drop link bushing was a bit worn, but nothing to worry about.

 

On motorways it's fine. And smooth roads. But uneven road surfaces it just seems to bounce about. Quite unpleasant really.

 

My old Volvo seems to absorb undulations better, even if it makes a lot of noise doing it. The Outback handles 'rough' surface fine, it's more uneveness that makes it bounce.

 

Any suggestions? Is there a harder shock absorber option? It's got a new anti roll bar in the back I think, worth looking at a stiffer one?

 

I see a lot of people on American forums recommending a certain brand of aftermarket shocker, KYB. But I've got a feeling US and European models are different, suspension wise.

Thanks

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Some new kyb excel G shocks would be less than £100 a pair. some new springs too could be good.

kyb is heavier damping than original. roll bar will make no difference to this but drop links are cheap (£14ish each) so could be worth fitting 2 new ones if get rear shocks done so all A1 back end.

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Yes, sorry about that Gambit.

So the rear shockers could be worn, even though they're not leaking?

Also, isn't the back end self levelling? When I had that on some previous car it was the shockers that did the self levelling bit. Will KYB ones do that?

Thanks chaps

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kyb will be non sls

if want sls it has to be subaru parts.

 

Rear shock/shocks could have internal issues & no leaks.

Stripping off vehicle may tell more .

Don't sound right to me though as I would say good order suspension on these cars are far from bouncy.

 

If car towed a lot or carried reasonable load then shocks & springs do work hard so could be fatigued.

 

KYB shocks are good price, subaru sls will be 8x the price.

The KYB's can be used with some custom progressive springs & slight base height gain to try & balance ride height better.

sls is nice & strut quality superb but most people won't cough up well over 1k for new shocks - springs when can get above options for £250ish

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Thanks very much Mr B

 

It's going up to a main dealer to get a couple of bits and pieces done. I'll insist they go out for a drive with me to see what I mean. If they think it's not 'normal' then I'll see what they quote for self levelling.

 

If I went for KYB is there a drawback to non self levelling? Obviously I lose the self levelling (duh), but it's got the headlight adjust for that problem. Is it going to strain anything else? I sometimes carry stuff in the back, and once a year we have an expedition to the outer hebrides which is 4 people, all our luggage and 2 or 3 bikes on. If it's sitting really low am I going to harm anything?

 

I've always been one for trying to keep vehicles in 'original' condition. But having spent an amount I'm too embarrassed to disclose on my Volvo trying to do that, I'm wondering whether I ought to adopt a more frugal attitude to the Subaru. After all, it's done 110,000 miles. And I'm not 100% convinced it's the right car for me, I'll be keeping the Volvo for a while. I'd hate to spend a fortune on sls shocks, just to change my mind, or find something else catastrophically wrong with it.

 

Thanks for your advice.

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mix kyb with custom progressive springs with perhaps 20mm base lift from springcoil.co.uk would help keep rear at sensible level for your sort of usage I suspect.

See what outcome is from test drive, prices won't be good unless you work for or marry someone from dealership.

KYB & custom springs would be about £340-£370 pair fitted, shocks have 2yr warranty ...

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Best 2 ways to be 100% is from part number on the shock or calling subaru parts with your chassis number or reg handy & ask for part price & confirm it sls.

Most of the sls versions look same, springs are normally thinner but this hard notice without having seen non sls springs.

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Yesterday I drove my wife's Honda Jazz round the local streets. That felt pretty bouncy too.

 

Today took the Outback to a main dealer for some other work. While they were doing that I took a 2011 Outback they had for a test drive. I thought that was a bit bouncy too.

When they'd finished the work they were doing they took it out. And said it was as they would expect. They said they've never had to replace shocks on an Outback (but done lots on Foresters).

So my conclusions:

 

1. I'm used to a Volvo 940. Which is old, RWD, very long wheelbase, 15inch rims (and consequently tall tyres). Built for comfort. It's a relaxing drive, everybody says so.

 

2. The Outback is as it should be, so I'll either have to ditch it or get used to it.

 

3. If I want to replace the Volvo with something that feels the same I'll have to get into Mercedes land. Or something similar. Which means big money if (when) it needs work, and I lose the advantages of the Subaru.

 

The Outback has 17 inch rims on it. Would changing to 16 inch rims help? Taller tyres? I'm thinking of going to a 2 rims set up anyway (winter/summer tyres).

 

The 2011 Outback (3.6Rn) was fantastic. by the way. Seats and cabin a lot nicer than my 2005. I'll probably trade up in the not too distant future.

 

Thanks for your help folks.

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