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Judder/ Hesitation


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Hi guys looking for a bit of advice I've got a 2003 STI and recently it has started to hesitate or judder when I'm accelerating slowly I suppose the best way 2 describe it is kinda like kangaroo petrol, very annoying and every1 must be thinking my driving is cr@p! The clutch isn't slipping and I've checked the maf that seems fine, I changed the plugs last nite aswel but that didn't help, any suggestions would be much appreciated as this is driving me nuts!! Lol

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The cars always run on tesco momentum mate usually fill up at the same petrol station, I had a look at the coils last nite when I did the plugs and they looked fine no visible cracks or anything, after I got home 2nite I pulled the plug on the maf while the car was still running and it cut out right away. I'm running out of ideas now lol thinking about tryin a fuel system cleaner or additive, is there any u would reccomend?

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Not really, the fuels these days are that thin and full of additives that you shouldnt really need it.  Try cleaning the maf sensor just in case?  I know they can be a bit 'finiky' at times.  

It's not going to be idle control as thats when your coming to a stop rather than accelerating. So as far as we know, ignition is ok, air is ok... just fuel really left to check.

 

On another note when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?  Just thinking if its a little clogged up then on low demand it may not flow enough to supply correctly.

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Shhhhhh I'm trying to wing it ;)

 

He said at low speed so I'm guessing the sparks not working right making it not burn all the fuel to make it stutter I could be wrong like most things it's guess work :D

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Yeah it seems 2 clear up the revs it's up2 about 4k it's stuttering. I changed the plugs last night the coils looked ok no visible cracks, I'll try giving the maf a clean 2moro, it's been about 6 months since the fuel filter was done so that'll b next on my list. Recently if the cars been sitting for more than a day sometimes it doesn't want to start sounds like its not gettin a spark a dunno if this problem is related or not, thanx for all the advice so far guys

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No problem yep MAFS would most certainley be my next stop then and would almost put mylife on it being the problem with everything else changed. Does it almost stall when slowing down towards round about's or traffic lights ?

that will be MAFS issue. But just because there is no cracks or any sign from the coil pack doesn't mean it's not a problem I know from experience. But I did get a miss fire code from the cylinder but no EML came on 

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Just a bit of an update guys checked all the Battery wires and earths there all fine. When I went out and started the car this morning the CEL came on and stayed on 4 about half an hour then went off and hasn't been on since, I just took the maf off and cleaned it but there's no difference. Looks like I will need 2 get it plugged in 2 c wat the problem is but am starting to think its a bad coil?

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I agree I would say you will get a misfire code in one of four cylinders maybe all four. I can't remember what the code is off the top of my head but we can soon find out what the code means for you :) 

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Looking for another bit of advice guys jst got the new code reader in this morning and plugged the car in its coming up with 2 codes:

P0102 (MAF or VAF A circuit low input)

P0113(IAT sensor 1 circuit high input)

Is the IAT sensor part of the MAF, so all I need is a new MAF? I did unplug the maf while the car was running to test it and the car cut out straight away so i thot the maf was ok but obviously not lol

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Well I guess there is some good news there that we now know it's the MAF that is the problem before you buy another one just check that there is no cracks splits in the hose spray water on it why it's idling should hear a change in revs check it's all tight as well. 

 

And code P0113

Internally failed IAT sensor

Faulty connection at IAT sensor

Open in IAT ground circuit or signal circuit

Short to voltage in IAT signal circuit or reference circuit IAT harness and/or wiring routed too close to high-voltage wiring (e.g. alternator, spark plug cables, etc.) Faulty PCM (less likely but not impossible) 

 

First, if you have access to a scan tool, is there an IAT reading? If the IAT reading is logical then the problem is likely intermittent. If the reading is less than -30 degrees, unplug the connector. Install a jumper wire between the harness connector signal and ground circuits. The IAT temperature reading on the scan tool should be maxed out at the high end. For example it should be 280 degrees Farenheit or higher. If it is, the wiring is okay, and it may have been the connection. If it isn't install the jumper wire between the IAT signal circuit and the chassis ground. If now the IAT reading on the scan tool is maxed out then check for an open in the IAT ground circuit. If you get no reading at all on the scan tool, it's likely that the sensor signal is open or the 5 volt reference is missing. Check using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) for a 5 volt reference. If it's there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector.

 

I took this from
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
 

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