Newbie needing help

[Turbotec]

Hubby owns a 1998 Subaru Forester, we've had this car for 5 years now and several legacys beforehand 

I have a fair bit of mechanical knowledge after traning to be a mechanic on leaving school and the husband has a fair bit of mechanical knowledge too but this has us stumped 

we lost all gears in our forester a couple of weeks back with no warning, it went again for a couple of miles then completely died and we ended up bringing her back on a low loader.

 Anyway on inspection waiting for recovery we discovered a split clutch hose! We assumed that was the problem and ordered a new one Had to wait for the part to arrive (imported a genuine Subaru part from USA as was still cheaper than local main dealer wanted (was unavailable from other local motor factor company's)

well anyway new pipe fitted today, clutch system bleed, same way as it was done after changing the clutch a few year back, (the whole one person opening and closing bleed valve, up down pump pump etc of the pedal by the other person but now the clutch does not seem to be disengaging, we are just getting grinding when trying to put it in any gear including reverse when running. (The gears will go in no problem with engine not running)

Anyone had this problem ? And have a solution, sorry my first post is an ask btw.

Thinking of re bleeding again tommorow in the hope that there's still air in the system somewhere as heard these can be a pain to bleed (last time it was fine) 

failing that new slave cylinder will be ordered but are we on the right lines? 

Could it be the clutch fork? Heard these are quite common, although it does appear to be moving as it should when bleeding and hubby can feel the tinyest amount of play but unable to move it by hand so from this end it looks good!

or are we missing something ?

 

 

 

[stants]

Hello & welcome, you may need to bench bleed the master cylinder to expell all the air if it's entered the system. Pain in the backside but it's the only way really to make sure. I'm not massively clued up on clutches but we have a few very knowledgeable members here hopefully they'll be along to offer more help

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Mr B]

I would of probably gone for new slave anyway at age of your car & they only about £25 (Blueprink ADL A1 quality, shop about)

Tip on clutch line option is get a hose shop duplicate them from original as pattern, use quality line & fittings though (many motoring shops that do braided brakes hoses can do it also)

Best thing to do is inspect clutch arm to see all seems ok visually/to feel then retry bleeding.

We normally remove slave so loose & can be kept at high point to help air out (hold plunger in with clamp)

Be sure pull pedal all way up by hand & give short rest time before pump stroke. also be sure plenty fluid in res.

Also be SLOW in pump & return strokes during bleed

If still get issues after careful bleed try pumping clutch 10-15 times then re-bleed a bit & repeat if found helping .

now, what is pedal feel like ! does it have resistance & does clutch feel to move properly !!

You also want look at slave plunger movement to see seems move out & moving fork .

If issue remains yet pedal seems firm & slave plunger moves it could be issue in fork/release bearing/clutch

Is unusual get master issues but never rule it out as is 18yrs old (what mileage on your foz ! )

 

More details on car would be good, guessing it S turbo from user name, rightly or wrongly :-) good luck .