Newbie, wanting Forester purchase advice

[Peroni]

Apologies for just seeking info, I hope to be able to contribute here in time.

I once had a 2006, 2.0 , XE manual for a few months which I loved. Only problem was I bought the car after being told it would tow 2 tonnes and then found it could only tow 1.5T.  It is the 2009 (Mk 3) onwards which had that 2T capacity.  I didn't want a diesel (wife objects) and I'd somehow mistakenly thought that all Mk3's were diesel only. 

Just discovered that you can get 2009 onwards petrol engined, manual cars that will tow 2 tonnes, so I'm back in the game! I've been eyeing up a 2010 plate 2.0l XS, petrol, manual at a dealer's up north and thinking of placing a deposit on it. Price seems a lot at £7,800 for a 90k, 9 year old car which has full SH up to 68k but nothing thereafter. Dealer has promised to do 90k service & replace timing belt. Does that price seem OK?

My question is, is there still a lot of value/life left in a 90k Forester? I like to keep my cars for 8-10 years. Given the underbody rust on my last one I'm not sure this prospective car has that much life in it?  

I'd like to be able to up to tow 2 tonnes as my work requires towing a range of trailers. The Foresters low-ratio box appeals, especially when reversing with a trailer on muddy tracks/grass. I'll attach a pic of the previous one, which I loved. I think the older one has better looks, new one is a bit of a mish-mash but perhaps a more useful beast? I'm also hoping to get the 3-4 extra MPG from the 2010 model over the 2006. There was a suggestion of a noise a bit like knobbly tyre on tarmac when I test drove the one I'm looking at. Haven't had time to follow it up. Could it be a wheel bearing or worse; G'box issue? I'm getting another test drive tomorrow and hope to evaluate more thoroughly.

Any comments, "watch out for"s , advice, hints, tips much appreciated.

Thanks, Wulbert.

[Peroni]

Pretty quiet forum this, I'd hoped for some advice about buying a Forester. Is my post offensive in some way I've not realised? 

I test drove a 2010 2.0l XS toady. Seemed generally OK apart from loud thrumming sound at 40mph +. Wheel bearing I thought or could it indicate deeper problems with transmission?

[Mr B]

Forum just quiet

Hopefully wheel bearing, try rocking vehicle left to right and see if noise goes away and note direction you rocking it .

also after longer drive feel wheel hubs for heat or use a infra red heat gun if got one .

If a manual you can dip clutch and see if noises change speed or stat same to road speed .

If is wheel bearing not to big a concern but be sure no other surprises and be sure price reflects faults you find.

Hope you buy a nice one, best of luck ...

[Brack]

Hi Wulbert, 

I just picked up a 2.0 XS auto 2008, FSH, full MOT,106000 miles for just under £4000... it needs a couple of things doing but I'm loving the car. Maybe you could find one a bit cheaper than £7800 ?

 

[Fozster]

18 hours ago, Brack said:

Hi Wulbert, 

I just picked up a 2.0 XS auto 2008, FSH, full MOT,106000 miles for just under £4000... it needs a couple of things doing but I'm loving the car. Maybe you could find one a bit cheaper than £7800 ?

 

Good stuff and welcome back to the Foz family. Best of luck with it 👍

[Peroni]

Thanks Fozster, 

That sounds a better deal. I really need a car that is ready to go to work, without any input from me. I'm too busy at work and rely on my vehicle for business to take time out for repairs. Hence going to  dealer to get ( I thought) a car that has no faults. Howvere, it seems the way dealers operate here is that the customer has to spot all the faults with the car and they then promise to fix them before you buy. Leaves me wondering what I may have missed. 

Up until now I've always bought privately and find that a preferable way to buy. ( in many ways less risky too it seems). Problem is all the private sales are older, high mileage cars. The newer ones seem to be all in dealers for highish prices.

I'm not sure what to do. Let the dealer repair the wheel bearing and take the risk that there may be other faults, and that the car will be worth only £5, 500 a minute after I pay £7,600 for it. Or wait until my perfect car comes up as a private sale and be ready to pounce on it. Hmmm

[Mr B]

That price is high .

Low mileage never guarantees a good car, it just guarantees you pay too much .

dealers in general are stingy as hell and never prep/repair cars well before sale .

Either be sure it absolute A1 order, great set of tyres and extras and worth price to you or keep looking .

Doubt they put much effort in a 90K service, I want belt replaced with all new idlers, expect they took that car for under 5K .

Dealers are in business of making money from hot air sales, you always do fairer/better deals privately with decent folks .

[Peroni]

My dilema is that I want a 2009 onwards model because it can tow 2 tonnes. Seems to be less of them for sale. Add in that my missus doesn't want a diesel (pollution controversy), it needs to be manual & 2.0 litre, non-turbo for better mpg and it narrows the field a lot.

Having said that, maybe the turbo or 2.5's aren't so bad on mpg as the motoring press makes out? 

[Brack]

Autotrader or Gumtree etc  have smaller independent trader adverts - just a quick search found this one in Glasgow for example - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201808309979515 - I have nothing to do with this seller of course.

[Peroni]

Thanks for that Brack. How does the rear suspension on this one look? Does it seem tired or OK? It was kind of "floaty" at the back I thought, but I've nothing to compare it with.

[Peroni]

Decided to keep looking as I thought the car offered was overpriced. Still have some questions; like how did they achieve the drop in CO2 to 170ppm? Was it by fitting two cats? In which case potential mega bill if they both fail?