Dyslexicbloke Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Hi folks, I have, or at least may have a problem. I recently bought a 2009, 3rd gen, 2.0 manual. It runs smoothly, at least it did until,I had an air meter issue, but has been flat, even for a 2.0, since I got it. I have only had it a few weeks and had decided to take it back to be looked at, when the meter failed. The garage that fitted the new meter, not the one I had it from due to distance, were not happy with the performance when testing and looked a little deeper, what they found is potentially a big issue but I wouldn't know how to check. They told me the timing belt was one tooth out, I don't know if it was both cams of just one and I don't know if it was retarded or advanced. Given that I have driven the thing for 3 weeks and there is no indication of rough ideal or mechanical noise I am inclined to think the valves haven't hit the pistons and the timing was probably symmetrical at least. I am now arguing with the dealer that sold it to me but worry I may get stuck with it and worse, have little idea of what, if any, damage has been done and how I would best go about checking that. The local guy, who I trust tells me he isn't happy with how it is performing although it is much better than it was now it has a new meter and the belt in the correct place. He also tells me that without further, detailed, diagnostic work, performed by an different technician, that he cant tell me much more an inst prepared to guess. Obviously I am not expecting anyone to tell me why its flat, OK flatter than a 2.0 normally is, but I am hoping that someone may have some insight into:- How far out the valve timing would have to be to cause damage, physically? If damage can result from bad valve timing that inst mechanically induced, burned seats for example and how that could be assessed and or rectified? It dose run smoothly and drives OK, bar the lack or toque, in fact it did even when the timing wasn't correct. My point is it doesn't sound, or feel, dead, although I realise it may be seriously compromised. I am jut looking for insight and suggestions. If I can get it refunded I will but I suspect that would involve a legal fight, and probably not be quick, so knowing how worried I should be would help. Thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Need to get a leak down test done that will tell you if you have valve issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyslexicbloke Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Just knowing what to ask for is so helpful, thanks. Its running horribly, so bad I will not drive it for fear of doing more damage. Starts and idels fine but, no power below 3000 ish and a pronounced misfire a little above 4000... Then add the general flatness... Just pointed out to the dealer that it is his problem, under UK law, but he dosn't believe me yet. The sad thing is I want the car, or something basically the same, If it can be fixed to a point where it is no greater risk than anything else that age and milage I would keep it but it isn't looking good at the dealership thus far. I work on hydro sites all over the country, hours on the motorway and then miles on steep rough tracks, and oftern slippery fields, all fully loaded. I have, a 2004 that I have run for several years and 85000 miles, its done 190000 now but it only just scraped through emissions last year and one or two less siveer but annoying faults now, hence the upgrade... 2004 available for S&R with 4 good AT's on alloy and Pedders heavy duty struts on the rear if anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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