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2005 alarm chirp when starting WRX 05


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Hi guys just wondering if anyone has came across this problem,when I start my car I get a loud chirp form the alarm, the car has recently had Battery, alternator etc,I started it today after a few days standing and it turned over white slow(just removed a blue tooth dongle which was on permanent so hopefully this was flattening it) has anyone any idea why the alarm is chirping.

Thanks

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I would guess that while starting the voltage drop across the alarm is so big it freaks out. Did you replace the Battery with one of the same size, cranking power? If you put a smaller one in that might explain it. Easily tested with jump leads, just wire in another Battery (as if jump starting) and if the chirp stops then you have a solution, buy a bigger better Battery.

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Oh yeah I understand,I will have to try that,as I said I've replaced the Battery as the previous one was constantly going flat after the car standing a few days but still I never had the chirping alarm sound when starting even with the obviously knackered Battery

All the evidence points to the Battery which is very annoying as I've just spent over £100 on a new one.

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It still could be just the alarm. If the Battery is new then based on my theory it could be the starter motor on way out as that would also drop the voltage if it pulling to many amps. All guess work. The test would just tell you that the alarm is freaking out but not if it was the Battery or the starter motor. Again did you by the right rated Battery?

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I did not realise alarms chirped at low voltage, makes sense.

Either the Battery is bad (doubtful), completely wrong rated Battery (cold cranking amps) or is being drained as Mr B suggests or the starter motor is drawing too many apps.

I had a Fiat Punto that would not start after being left from warm for 4 hours. Fiat could not solve it nor could an independant garage. It turned out to be starter motor which I proved by doing the same test. Since new starter fitted car was fine. I read so many stories of this issue on fiat forums where Fiat had actually changed the injectors and all sorts, sensors etc.. One Poor guy spent thousands and all he needed was a refurb £80 starter motor. The starter motor was drawing too many amps when at a certain temp which made the ECU freak out and not start till the >4th attempt (stone cold car would start first go). I believe the heat soak from the engine would twist the body of the starter as the end not attached to engine would cool quicker and make it work too hard (my theory anyway). Electronics can be an bugger at times and most mechanics are mechanics not electricians.

To test starter motor a garage could check the amp draw with a meter if it too high I would suspect the starter. You can look up the proper amp draw for the starter motor somewhere online.

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6 minutes ago, Siluro said:

I did not realise alarms chirped at low voltage, makes sense.

Either the battery is bad (doubtful), completely wrong rated battery (cold cranking amps) or is being drained as Mr B suggests or the starter motor is drawing too many apps.

I had a Fiat Punto that would not start after being left from warm for 4 hours. Fiat could not solve it nor could an independant garage. It turned out to be starter motor which I proved by doing the same test. Since new starter fitted car was fine. I read so many stories of this issue on fiat forums where Fiat had actually changed the injectors and all sorts, sensors etc.. One Poor guy spent thousands and all he needed was a refurb £80 starter motor. The starter motor was drawing too many amps when at a certain temp which made the ECU freak out and not start till the >4th attempt (stone cold car would start first go). I believe the heat soak from the engine would twist the body of the starter as the end not attached to engine would cool quicker and make it work too hard (my theory anyway). Electronics can be an bugger at times and most mechanics are mechanics not electricians.

To test starter motor a garage could check the amp draw with a meter if it too high I would suspect the starter. You can look up the proper amp draw for the starter motor somewhere online

Yeah, it seems that nothing is simple with Subaru's, the Battery, starter and alternator are all new in the last few months and still the problems continue, I connected my son's Battery onto mine via jump lead and there was no chirping at all I even started it three or four times and it was  perfect but as soon as I removed the leads and started the car again the loud alarm sound was there as the car started up 😔

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Looks to me you having parts thrown at it to try cure an issue rather than diagnose the issue .

Subaru electrics are pretty basic and also pretty reliable so generally it not hard pin an issue down .

My suspicion would be parasitic drawer or voltage drop from bad connection on a main large Battery connection at some point .

All this fairly easily checked and bread and butter work for any half competent mechanic and also very achievable for diy guy, A fault like these soon pull a new Battery down and colder weather just highlights the low state of charge .

I doubt the car much of a problem but more the mechanic not dealing with it well .

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Update; no wiser lol, garage said he thinks it's now the alternator but when I drive the car around knock it off and start it again the car turns over very quickly so it's getting some charge,it's gone from starting no problem last night (Albeit with the loud alarm chirp,) to being completely flat just earlier on when the garage tried to start it, I think your right, something is flattening the Battery

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It is possible alternator flattening Battery (diode issue will cause this)

It really basic checks and no 'think it is' required .
My assumption is your mechanic not good at these checks and that reason you a new alternator and Battery into this and underlying issue still present .

Testing output of alternator also basic check so pretty easy conclude if charging or not and with a scope and current clamp you know how healthy it is in minutes .
You ideally want to do a current draw test with vehicle in sleep mode as such and then if record high current draw (anything more than 250ma) trace down the source.

The alternator can be checked for parasitic draw right at the terminal inline with any cheap multimeter and again a 10 minute test that a mechanics bread and butter and pretty much daily test task in a repair garage heavy winter time .

Simply checking your Battery voltage with a multimeter before and after parked up over night likely give you evidence that it discharging abnormally and give you direction to head in with diagnosis of the issue rather than wasting money shooting expensive parts at it .

Be careful as unfortunately your mechanic is spending your money and not his own and fact you got lot of shiny new parts put still an issue has me concerned on ability of those checking it .
The Battery and charging system on these subarus is dead simple and quality oem parts that dead easy diagnose generally ...

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I wish Mr B was my local Subaru mechanic sounds like very safe hands to me. If you have been replacing bits for this problem then I would consider a new mechanic as they are not doing very well. Buy yourself a multi meter and save yourself some money. I wish I had the space and tools to do all my own stuff. Plenty of resources online.

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To be fair to him,the alternator was diagnosed knackered by the dealer which it was, I myself replaced the last Battery as after a few days it was losing charge,I probably didn't have too as it is probably the same fault that's causing the new Battery to go flat,it's on charge now,I noticed when taking the Battery off earlier today that there was water on top of the Battery and about half inch under the Battery so waters obv getting in somewhere, hopefully that's the cause of it going flat and sounding the alarm when started.

That's the problem living in a one horse town, if you think this is bad you should have seen how many locals I had to take it to to get a downpipe fitted correctly!

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Fingers crossed it as simple as water causing a surface short .
If you got a basic multimeter you can check your running charge voltage with lot of elecs turned on (low 14v normal for subaru) and also check you Battery voltage before and after it sat for 12-24hrs (lead acid Battery around 12.6 close to 95% charged and 12.0 close to 50%)
If you got inductive clamp meter you can check current output from alternator which can be up to little over 100amp pending what elecs on and charge state of Battery .

I doubt alternator bad again but remans or the off brand replacements can be shabby .

certainly worth get some idea your Battery not draining and alternator working as perfect time of year get stranded and be a pain plus if alternator doubts you want follow up on that for warranty replacement asap .

Need look at that water ingress, from bonnet as never a good thing .

amount of car I see with new Battery and alternator and yet still with problem is shocking, even more shocking when they billed over 300 and then needing the second opinion as no one really diagnosed issue before meddling ....

Hopefully your scenario 2 separate issues but be careful as too many garages seem like shoot parts rather than make effort with diagnosis and on simple stuff like this it can get silly for the owner ...

 

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