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Everything posted by Siluro

  1. Did it rain overnight before the noise appeared. Disk could have rusted and this makes a noise with your pad compound. The grinding noise only occurs when coming to complete stop, 10 mph or below. I have this issue with PFC pads and my disks. Just take it out for a good blast and all silent again. It comes back on mine but the 30 minute stop start daily commute cause this. I was concerned but after working it out it no longer bothers me, and if it does I just go for a spirited drive. Just a thought.
  2. Thanks. I am sort of going through this. I get bubbling noise in my heater matrix it seems. Not always and seems to be related to how hard i drive it. My car however does not overheat. I use bluetooth dongle to see actual temps and the car does what is supposed to. This only started when i had a blonde moment and opened the rad cap. I gave it to Subaru but they !Removed! it up, caught on dashcam and that is whole other story. I decided to replace the coolant myself. I took rad out, flushed it and replaced nearly all coolant lines with a Samco kit. Replaced rad caps too. Car runs great, no oil lose, no sign of water mixing or loss of coolant. Hawkeye with map 270bhp fly. Only mods are performance panel filter and uprated brakes. Only done 46000 miles 2007 WRX. now used as daily driver. As i said previously I have read so many stories like your but the one thing they have in common is overheating. I hoping it is something else like all the others. Do you have a link to the test you bought?
  3. Yes I have seen many stories like yours. No symptoms but was the HG. What hydrocarbon test do you use, same as the MOT tests or the liquid sniff test? @RPM150 i have my fingers crossed for you.
  4. "could it hopefully be the thermostat?" Does the rad fan kick in? It should kick in approx 97 cool water to high 80s and turn off fan. It will just repeat this cycle if normal. The temp gauge is useless, try not to overheat it as you will blow gaskets or warp head/block.
  5. From the little I know it can be tricky to diagnose. As you have had the rad changed recently I would like to think it is an air lock, which is easy to do on these motors. I would drain the coolant and refill with the front end pointing in the air. Fill from the filler tank near the turbo, fill slowly. Burp system and see if it still overheats. I refilled mine recently and it got an air lock which would allow the engine temps to rise. The temp gauge in the car is too slow, I used a cheap bluetooth dongle and my android phone to keep an eye on temps. I burped it and all is good now. If the above does not work then I would start suspecting the HG. I hear that an exhaust gas analyser sniffing the air in the overflow tank could be the best bet. Sniff tests have prooved to be not reliable based on other threads. GOOD LUCK Just a thought does the heater blow hot air, if not may be a sign of airlock.
  6. Welcome. My first mid life crisis was a seven kit car. I become too scared of it after I stuck it in the hedge at 40 mph. Now Scoobies much safer.
  7. You just cannot help it can you. If I look up any mapper I can find a nightmare story or someone who has an opinion. Racedynamics, Rawl, Scoobyclinic is there anyone that can be trusted. It is a nightmare if you read all the posts about mappers. Must be a !Removed! job sometimes if your asked to map a bad build and something happens on the dyno and it reflects badly on the mapper. @adarmBad luck about the motor. Hope you back up and running soon.
  8. Ian from godspeed has said that the 4 pots are ok and he has used them in rallys (which he won his class) in another thread. He also explained to me that the pad can make a massive difference so the 4 pots can be made to work. All of which makes sense. I did not try any new pads, I just went for the Brembo kit from Godspeed. This was about £1200 with new pistons for rears. It worked for me and looks much better than the stock setup. A set of new pads though would have been <£200. The biggest issue I had was fade on both the WRX with standard brakes and my old classic sport.
  9. It is either an airlock or the head gasket or the heads lifting under boost. If the overflow is overflowing this is one of the signs of head gasket/Heads lifting from what I have seen on the forums. Not saying it is and I hope it is not. Seeing as you have changed the Rad etc hopefully it is trapped air. These things can be a pain to bleed. I would if you have not already drain the coolant and start all over again. Best of Luck.
  10. How about this?Looks the part, low milage and 2006 model could be cheaper road tax by £200 plus nice brake upgrade already done.
  11. Good luck. I would (should have) pay the extra for an STI. 6 speed gearbox is indestructible compared to the WRX 5 speed. 6 speed will take 360 hp all day long. As Stuartie and Rosscosm say the 2 liter is stronger from factory. Converting a WRX into an STI will cost you a lot more than just buying the STI.
  12. Good Glad it was only the water pump. All the other stuff is worth doing anyway so no big deal only on the wallet. What was wrong with the pump exactly out of interest? Leaky seal, impeller worn?
  13. I had a classic 2.0 sport and as Jay said they bite ok but faded really quickly. I now have a 2007 WRX and the 4 pots on these with the pad and disk combo were worse than the classic which had drums on the back. I did not want to try x amount of pads and discs (which could have improved them as I have been told by Ian) so upgraded to the smaller brembo kit from godspeed. After all probably the most important part of any car. These I have not been able to fade on the same runs. I also wanted to keep the standard wheels 17 inch, plus the bigger 2 piece discs and brembos look the part.. The thing about the Subaru I believe is the servo assistance is not that much. Any modern car I have driven is the opposite and seems to be over assisted.
  14. Just a thought a 2007 Hawkeye is £545 road tax, 2006 is £325 (close to) tax, same car just registered date different. How does road tax work with an import 2007 Hawkeye?
  15. I upgraded to some smaller Brembos (same caliper used on the lightweight Alpha 4C) from Godspeed. I do not like the look of their big brake standard caliper conversion personally. I would love some APs but too expensive for a daily road car, school trips, commute, all in town traffic. I also wanted to keep standard 17inch wheels. Not a track car. This first upgrade was worth the 1k i spent, refurbished oem rears with stainless steel pistons and some pfc pads and 2 piece front disks. It has all but removed any fade and gives me much more confidence. As you say the OEM 4 pots are totally inadequate in comparison to my Brembos so your APs must be far better. What is the cost of APs 3K?
  16. Standard 4 pot subaru brakes are never going to be the best. The fade is horrible. Whats your budget? Talk to Godspeed brakes, they will supply you what you need. APs ouch for a road car. Oh yeah buy new decent tyres that is one of the best upgrades if needed or have cheapos on.
  17. If it makes you feel better my 2007 2.5 liter WRX does 22-23 mpg around town and can manage 28 mpg on the motorway or dual carriageway. Full tank £65 ranges from 210-300 miles. You need to work out what it is using and see if it miles away from the Manufacturer figures (which are generally bullsh*t anyway).
  18. With the cap off the system will not pressurise and will overflow from the cap as water expands under heat of the engine, all normal. This does not explain the leak at the stat housing though. Why would that stop maybe because the stat is closed it stops and when open it leaks. Good luck
  19. Your not making much sense "leaking from coolant". Sounds very strange though. Cannot see how it leaked and then stopped on its own. On a newage the thermostat has to be put in a certain way, jiggle pin at the top. Not sure if a classic is the same.
  20. I have heard other people state they would not put mitsomoto stuff on their car, now I see why. Luckily I only have the rad hoses. Glad you found the issue.
  21. The thermostat is housed where the bottom rad hose connects to the block on my Hawkeye. I recently changed my coolant and had an air lock and the bottom hose was cold. I managed to remove the air lock and now all is fine. The airlock would make it start to overheat and the fans could no longer control temps. I use a bluetooth dongle and torque app to monitor water temps as the gauge in the car is useless. What you describe can be the Head Gasket yes. This is why I asked if you done any work on the cooling system. I would drain the system and try again, check all your hoses for leaks and test thermostat and change if needed. If it has been standing then how does the HG blow. Fingers crossed it is your thermostat that is stuck(would explain cold bottom hose and overheating). Just replace it and try again.
  22. As Neil said more info. Do you know where the coolant leaked from? Had you done any work on coolant system before driving, change rad, filler tank etc. If so then likely airlock.
  23. I would do as Stuartie said and start again and refill very slowly via the turbo hose. This fills it from bottom up. Once air is trapped in the system it is very difficult to get out. Only real way is to start again. PIA but if you keep overheating it that will become expensive. Make sure the car is flat or point up hill when you fill it.
  24. Higgins in the WRX on the Isle of Man looks awesome. Hope they do it again.