Siluro

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Siluro last won the day on June 15

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About Siluro

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location:
    Northamptonshire
  • Subaru Model
    2007 WRX

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  1. I normally would not like that for a road car but the orange i like. It is not to in your face. What lap time round the ring?
  2. Once air is trapped it is a bugger to get out if an airlock (hopefully). Best bet is to drain it out and start again. I refill from the big hose that goes into the filler tank, at back goes to turbo. This fills from the bottom up. Leave rad cap on and fill up (slowly) until filler tank is 3/4 full and then bleed as per repair manual (many videos on youtube). I even had a Subaru main dealer fill and try to bleed from the radiator doh (dashcam). So even so called pros do not know what they are doing. The cooling system on a subaru is rather convoluted. Is coolant being pushed out of the overflow tank after a hard run? It should raise and fall with the heat cycle. My hawkeye overflow tank when engine is cold at full mark when engine hot inch from the top (not brimming but quite high). Do you have dried coolant marks around the overflow tank as if coolant has spurted out of the tank?
  3. The first part of the graph looks normal upto 92 and back down to 80 when fans kick in. Thats how my hawkeye reacts. But the spike is not normal obviously. If the car does not overheat or push coolant out of overflow then it is likely the sensor or electrical. More info, was car just ticking over or while driving, as above coolant, hoses feel firm but not solid when hot, does the fan kick in, does the heater blow hot air, etc? Have you got the rad cap and filler tank cap on the right way round (been know to get swapped)? The winged cap goes on the filler tank (next to intercooler) and the non-winged cap goes on the rad. I assume a Bug is the same. Rad cap is just a release cap and the filler is a two way cap, when car cools the vacuum created sucks water back in through the filler tank cap. They must be on the right way round. Also if rad just changed do you have air lock in the coolant, can be ****** things to bleed all the air out. If not filled correctly this is easily done. Just a thought
  4. Depends how you think about it. If aftermarket only lasts 2 years then the OEM works out about the same if the broken one is the original from 2012.
  5. Wow £1600, how many accidents or points have you had? When I first bought my totally standard WRX (4 years ago) Adrian flux and Keith Michaels both said come back after you have had the car a year as long as you don't have an accident etc. I am 48 years old and have full no claims bonus. I insured it Esure at £670 for first year. I went back to Adrian Flux and now pay £500 a year (now with mods included). I live in a town center so my postcode is a real killer. Hope it is a 2006 model else it is another £530 or so for a years road tax. Now that really hurts considering the state of the roads and I only do 5k miles a year. So that is my story if that helps.
  6. Woops a 7.5 tonne lorry that will do it. That can be the killer with cars, some idiot can take it away from you in a second after pouring all that love and money into her. Happen to my big bumper mk2 Golf GTI 16v Last year made too J plate, only 34K miles written off by a £250 polo who failed to stop at a give way and ploughed into side of me. Not only that she somehow tried to blame me stupid b**tch and i helped her after the accident, lent her my phone (nokia3210 days) to call husband who was 7ft tall. Anyway they paid up in the end.
  7. All i can tell you my 2007 wrx made 267bhp with 335ft lb. Car is completely standard except back box and panel filter. How many miles, any mods, 2 or 2.5 liter? There is a post full of maps on this forum so you can compare. What is PPP STI supposed to do? Does not look too bad if totally standard but i am no expert by any means.
  8. On the opposite side of that my WRX was in a bump which required whole new wing and paint job. As a buyer you can see the evidence in the gutter of the wing when you lift the bonnet (one side shiny other original matt), and would put me off. I know it is not problem and would by the car again all day long. Tricky but in your case the fact there is overspray and the orange peel it has been done on the cheap. What else has been done on the cheap? If you feel they are covering it up then stay away. Subarus cost enough to run without issues and nothing is worse than a cosmetic issue like it has as it will always annoy you. From reading the whole post I would look for another.
  9. Welcome. Nasty how fast did the van reverse into your classic to write it off? I would still be sore too.
  10. Thanks Mr B that is a good explanation. So you saying that owners should upgrade regardless of HG condition. At what point do you suggest? What is the cost for just the HG as an upgrade?
  11. Thanks guys. Ok as I suspected then, if the motors overheated I can understand. If blowing for a long time that also makes sense. But not every bI will keep adding to my "oh sh*t fund". Good excuse to spend some money on new forged pistons etc.......
  12. That still does not answer the question. If coolant never got into the oil why is the bottom end trashed unless the engine was overheating, otherwise what destroys the bottom end? I agree is it is high mileage then it is a no brainer. "Short version is the crank bearings are often found to have been damaged" by what?
  13. @Tidgy Why would it require a full rebuild if the coolant never got into the oil and ruin the bottom end? If only blowing into the coolant side then the bottom end should be fine no, if passes an inspection? If coolant got into the oil then yes i agree with you. I am no mechanic but i am curious as to why on a 2.5 this is the case regardless of age/mileage, and why is this different for a 2.0 (agreed now that it is that old/mileage i would do the bottom as well)? I own a low mileage 2007 Hawkeye WRX, and now need to save more in my oh **** funds. @Mark good luck