She needs to go !!

[wockey]

My 2006 XC still look and drives well but MOT due in a month. She’s just returned from a pre mot check ( plus oil & filter change !!) Rear strut mounting are corroded ( approx £800) She’s also got the famous Secondary Air Pump( with the annoying Engine Warning Light)........158.000 on the clock  and the drivers side window has stopped working (motor £400 +)

What’s the best way to make some money out of her disposal ?? 

Regards

John

 

 

 

 

[Mr B]

800 sounds expensive for strut mounting, I done a few rear turret and arch repairs and including a total arch seam seal and stone guard refinishing dearest has been 600 and average 300 to 400

Drivers window an easy fix and common, don't buy a new motor, buy a used passenger side  rear as they same front drivers side besides a water drain fitting needs clocking position changed and original harness tail swapped over (plugs in) they about £30 for tidy one and 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on drivers door as motor sits upside down in passenger rear .
You can improve motor drainage by removing motor housing and making 2 small weep holes and renew grease in bearing points but that beyond most garages .

air pump a pain,  is possible sometimes free them but if paying someone you best fitting quality new or getting it mapped out .

Could list it spares or repair if you unable find repair route cost viable , right time of year for people look for 4wd and easy fix and worth doing if rest of car proper decent .

 

 

[Siluro]

Man I so wish this guy lived near me. I throw money at him to maintain my car.

[wockey]

Thanks for the information, much appreciated. I’m not mechanically minded so unable to fix my car. 

The Secondary Air Pump and it’s Removal can only be correctly done by a Subaru garage because they are the only ones who can remap the ECU on a non turbo Forester.  I can’t get a “proper” mot done unless it is fixed. Quite sad really because it’s a good car. 

Regards

John

 

[Mr B]

It does not need a authorised subaru garage to flash non turbo ecu .
personally I prefer simply replacing the pump as simplest solution with no future legal snags, aftermarket pump and fitting is roughly £240 which would be diag check that it is the fault and it not a control side issue, removal and refit which quick to do, code clearing and bidirectional test and colds start/road test ..
I generally can get oem pumps working again but how long they function perfectly before trips CEL criteria is a gamble .

 

[wockey]

Hi , like I said I’m not mechanically minded but I have researched this problem over the last few years on Subaru Forums. Sometimes it’s not the Pump failing ( my pump is ok) it is the metal port flaps seizing open or closed which sets off the Engine Warning Light on my car. You can remove the flaps and fit blanking plates but I cannot find anyone who can permanently remove the fault codes. I would love to be proved wrong.   If I could get this problem solved I would keep the car. Thanks again for your input.

John

 

 

[Mr B]

that will be the air valves, if in good mechanical order removal and very thorough cleaning can work but again if paying for the labour new parts tend work out better long term value repair .

window is very affordable, secondary air could possibly be got working for couple hours labour but gamble how long lasts, welding shouldn't be that bad if this first rust repair and no previous MOT mention, they all rot pretty much same areas and I never seen one on first repair need much more than 300 or 400 worth of welding and sealing, welding repairs can vary drastically shop to shop but inner arch and turret not that difficult and material cost is very low .

If you can't find better priced viable repairs you will be best selling it as those that can do the work themselves would find these common easier jobs a desirable repair car purchase .