Drivers window issue

[Sp4rks]

Hi, I have an issue with my drivers window, its a jdm cross sport. Ive already had the motor refurbished, and also picked up a spare switch pack. My issue is odd.

1.  Auto doesn't work.

2.  Have to hold switch down to lower window.

3.  Window only goes up an inch at a time.

Tried multiple different reset techniques, nothing.

 

Any ideas, am i looking at a potential earthing issue. Totally stumped.

[Brack]

Wonder if the glass is out of alignment and sticking maybe..just a guess.  

[Mr B]

What year  (2006 !)
also do a pic of your switch pack original and replacement, top and bottom if possible showing any numbers and wiring sockets .

Some questions

are faults same with both switch packs you got or slight differences in faults .

Who refurbed the motor and what extent work done to it .

 

 

The motors generally fail to water ingress and worthwhile repair is not viable route generally when cheap and easy get used (keep reading)

The passenger rear motor is exactly same as driver front (besides drain port plug clocked position needs changing) so could be used for diagnosis in a pinch .
Used rear motors make best replacement as genuine quality and rear don't suffer water ingress as clocked with motor housing upwards, also rear motors generally get lot less use cycles ....

 

You in Newport that the home town of the once great MOLE & SON factory ...

[Sp4rks]

So 2006 JDM Cross Sport, just to clear that up.

 

I have had the motor refurbished and its been tested in another forester. It also moves a lot faster now.

The switch pack i had in the car when imported was a nissan s12 m220 switchpack. The issue is:

 

Window goes down fine when button held

Window does not go up ok, has to be moved an inch at a time

Auto function does not work

 

I have tried an m170 switchpack and that was probably broke already as pressing auto button caused lock to operate.

All passenger windows, mirror controls, door lock and mirror retract work fine.

 

If i could get the damn thing out the plastic casi g I'd try fixing it myself but it isn't budging. 

I have found an m090 online but holding back to find out more info.

Help, driving me nuts.

Image is of the m220 i bought to try and resolve the issue as it was supposedly 'off a cross sport and works fine'.

 

[Sp4rks]

Incidentally that switchpack has the same result as my original.

[Mr B]

When press auto down or up can you here any momentary activity at motor ?
What I would be doing is putting scope on motor to see current drawer and what voltage getting in general and on auto button cycle .

How free is glass/regulator movement ?
Has window worked properly in your ownership or it faulty from when purchased and did you see refurbed motor work multiple cycles perfectly in another foz ?

You got be careful with those switches as subaru has nasty habit of using same connectors but revised component and wiring at different build dates, can end up doing lot of expensive damage on newer version subarus with 5v monitoring circuits on window motors .

Without looking at it I still be suspicious of motor current tripping thermally .
If you can't test it well your best way forward would be pull passenger rear motor and first try refurbed front in rear door and rear door in the front as will conclude motor status from the puzzle .
If don't want pull rear you can buy a nice used rear passenger motor for less than £30 .