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Oil change frequency for 2.0 petrol 2003 X


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I am looking at a 2003 X 2.0 (manual, petrol) with 80k miles on it. I am aware of most of the things to check on it and am willing to take a bit of a risk for such a versatile car but my driveway is too sloped do oil changes at home so how often this will need to be done is a concern.

Can anyone advise on the sensible frequency for oil changes? I have seen some mention of every 3k/ 6 months but not sure if this right., so any advice from people who know would be appreciated. 


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once a year for average usage .
Changing oil & filter on these is pretty easy, you could drain on a slope and measure slightly short on refill then drive somewhere close with flat lay-by or car park to check level and top up .
Service parts are very affordable, blueprint do nice oil filters .
Check rear suspension not looking low if still original as common on these as self levelling struts don't last much over this age .
Subframes and inner rear arch/turrets also want proper good inspecting for rust .
Front window motors and drivers switch about the only other repeat failure see on these early SG models but can be fixed for small money .

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Thank you so much for your reply!

This is very helpful, I don’t do a lot of miles so might be able to get away with just letting them change at annual service if I keep an eye on it - even if of course I can’t check the level before journeys because of the slope.

I have already discounted a couple that look saggy at the back, the one I am thinking of is ostensibly in very good condition. Window motors, underside rust, sway bars, inside oil filler cap etc are all on my long list of things to check but I will add the struts and pay close attention to the arches.

Thanks again!

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Generally these engines don't leak or burn oil . Just check your oil when filling up with petrol .

I wouldn't be over concerned on rear suspension saggy as it not expensive or difficult replace with KYB and likely even if get one that fine it may need doing during your ownership.

Subframe rust and rear turret/arch/sill end cap area is harder fix and potentially costly ongoing problem .
Good clean ones are well worth extra effort finding and paying bit extra as you will get your money back ten times over in reduced repairs and no niggly problems .

Problem with foresters is they so versatile they tend to of been used pretty hard by at least one owner, automatics easier find very clean, manuals getting harder find nice condition .

Good luck and hope you get one as can be incredibly reliable and useful for very little cost ...

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