Purchase of a pre-owned Forester - Average Repair Costs

[PotatoFace]

Hi guys

So I'm new to the forum and just thought I'd introduce myself. Looking to purchase a pre-owned Forester this weekend. Been looking for a Subaru for a while and this one looks ideal. It's a 2010, 2.0 Diesel Boxer Engine XC model Forester. Really good service history and decent milage for the age.

I've done some research into the vehicle but am definitely still a novice when it comes to knowledge about the Forester.

So I would just like to start a thread about average and estimated repair costs for a vehicle such as this. Anything from minor stuff like replaced bushings or shocks, to more severe things like cluch or dreaded HG failure.

Would be really useful just to scope out what repair costs may be in the future.

Also any tips regarding foresters in generals.. tyres, sound systems, little quirks or problems to keep an eye out for. Things like that.

Apologies for such a broad tread topic but looking forward to hearing what you guys have to say.

Cheers!

PotatoFace 🥔
(Ell)

 

[Mr B]

Main tip avoid diesel, no beneficial savings due to higher diesel cost, poor real world mpg and higher maintenance/service needs of modern diesel. repair costs on diesels thanks to egr and dpf problems ruin owners bank accounts and cause lot of ownership stress ( I see the hassle daily and it SERIOUSLY not fun)
The early diesels have coomon crank failure issue (even later not 100% free of crank breakages) and this leaves you with scrap on wheels generally (we still getting 2008 to 2013 boxer diesel engines failures in and it a sad scenario for customers)
If you want proper made, proper reliable you far far far better off buying from 200 to 2005 era, Outbacks and Foresters from this era are the best built subaru .
Newer car you buy the more it will cost you in purchase, repair/running costs and ownership ballache . Quality and engineering concepts of newer cars across the board is APPALLING

Do yourself a favour and take time pick a proper prestine condition early 2000 era model at sensible money, do initial good service work bring it to A+ order and enjoy years of minimal hassle and expense.

Parts on this era Subaru are pretty cheap, just be sure educate yourself on part prices and brand quality and use garages that know what they doing as many won't and you will be paying there tuition fees ...

If you are doing serious high miles and diesel a must you best look at Volvo XC D5 models pre 2006 ...

[PotatoFace]

Thanks for your answer Mr B. So with regards to the comment about the diesel engine, how common are wettalking for these issues. Like everyone at somepoint and roughly at what kind of milage are these faults occuring?

Thanks in advance

[Mr B]

every one will do it at some point, it issue of fatigue and torsional overload that never fully resolved, 3rd revision on crank and blocks are improved but not immune to problems, 2008 to 2012 is the worst, in the trade they avoided tike a new covid strain .. .
Absolutely everyone knows about it so if you got any dealers saying otherwise it professional lies ...
most common mileage range is 80K to 1140K but anything possible, under warranty period dealers had them in with snapped cranks at less than 50K.
Most now don't get repaired as quite simply exceeds cost of the vehicle and they not worth a lot on used market because of crank issue and several other issues such as dpf egr, injector learning and stretched cam chains (all expensive and all quite common).
They are quite simply misery for owners at some point in time and huge amount scrapped already, we had a lot that gone salvage as engine replacement expensive route and it still got the engineering flaw and quite possibly other areas that need repairs be perfect functioning, shocking but that modern garbage and much same across the board, part quality is at an all time low, is an absolute ***** getting parts that work and keeping repair cost customer viable ...
I got no idea why so many people buy this expensive garbage ! is money easy come by !!!