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Potential drive shaft issue


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Hi all just trying to get some info on how I would know if my drive shafts are going on my 2013 Subaru Forester SJ MKIV  would I be hearing knocking/ clunking sounds when turning? Getting so many different mechanic opinions and this is the latest one I have been advised ? 
 

thanks all

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When CV joints run dry you often hear some clicking noises on a tight turn as the balls in the joint move but without grease to lube their movements, doesn't necessarily mean they are worn out, might just be running a dryer than they should, more noticeable after a run i find when things warm up.

Try repacking all 4 front CV joints with the correct moly grease.

You might find it easiest to break the small end clip and using an adaptor which Sealey make (looks like small pen refill, about 6" long, hollow, fits onto the end of your gun and can be slid right up inside the boot to the joint itself, pump till your heart's content) repack the joints, for temporary you can use really good cable ties on those small ends, and if it cures the problem buy the correct clips to finish the job off, course if you have proper boot clips anyway by all means snip the large ends so you can see the joint closely when you peel back the boots.

I've been doing this for some 40 years on my own and other's cars and am yet to need to change a drive shaft, another poster here with a Foz followed this advice and it sorted his rattling CV joints out.

Note, not sure if Forester of your model has this issue, but on some Outbacks the inner CV joints are right above the CATs, hence they get lots of heat all their life and those inner  boots can perish and split so have a quick poke nose first make sure you don't have a split boot or two.

Also don't forget to service the brakes correctly, strip inspect clean lube and reassemble, sticking sliders and caliper pistons can cause all sorts of issues, sadly not many dealers or technicians service brakes correctly, squirting brake cleeaner in the general direction of the calipers and discs only serves to further dry out any remaining lube form when the last mechanic (home or workshop) serviced them properly.

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