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EJ25 running issue (and hello all!)


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Good evening chaps, I'm new to here.

 

I have recently bought a VW T3, and it's powered by an EJ25 lump from a '96 Legacy. After a very smooth 500 (fun-filled) miles, it's developed a running issue, and I was wondering if anyone could offer any technical assistance?

 

When I fire it up cold, it will idle fine, but as soon as I even touch the throttle, it runs lumpy, possibly on 3 cylinders. It will continue to do this until it's warmed up, say 5 minutes or so, until it cuts out entirely. When I turn the ignition again, it starts with no issues at all, then runs what appears to be brilliantly, apart from the fact the it will cut out at junctions from time to time.

 

I've had a mechanic friend look at it, and he can't see any mechanical issues, and reckons it's a fuelling issue, most likely stemming from a faulty sensor or loose wire somewhere. Someone else thinks it might be an air leak.

 

Before I start poking around, I thought it prudent to join a forum with knowledgeable folk and ask them, as they're more likely to have had similar issues, know where to point me, and know where best to aqcuire spares! 

 

If anyone could offer assistance in any way, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

This is it, in-situ - 

 

P1000932.jpg

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Hi, and welcome. Thats a really neat looking install. :)

 

At this stage, looking from a keyboard, it could be a few things.

 

I would look at the O2/lambda sensor. They have 2 circuits. When one goes down, you get really bad fuel consumption and when the other dies it can produce what you describe. Its only when both circuits fail that the 'check engine' light comes on the dash. (do you have the full wiring loom and dash installed?)

 

The other possible is the MAF, which is normally engine side of the air filter box.

 

If this was still in a Legacy, you could check for error codes to give you a pointer but Im not sure how much Subaru wiring you have installed.

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Wotcha and welcome - as Gambit said it could be a number of issues - can you check the fault codes?

 

I'm struggling to get anyone nearby to do this. The loom (as it's in a VW campervan) is a little bastardised, but the grey diagnostic plug is there, so possible. It won't give that much away though will it, being a '96 'early' engine?

 

I'm in Kendal, and no idea who's nearby to check. I'll be asking on facebook to see if there's anyone with a fault code reader in the vicinity.

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Hi, and welcome. Thats a really neat looking install. :)

 

At this stage, looking from a keyboard, it could be a few things.

 

I would look at the O2/lambda sensor. They have 2 circuits. When one goes down, you get really bad fuel consumption and when the other dies it can produce what you describe. Its only when both circuits fail that the 'check engine' light comes on the dash. (do you have the full wiring loom and dash installed?)

 

The other possible is the MAF, which is normally engine side of the air filter box.

 

If this was still in a Legacy, you could check for error codes to give you a pointer but Im not sure how much Subaru wiring you have installed.

 

The install itself is brilliant, mechanically. All parts are top notch, RJES parts used where needed. As for the loom, it's only the engine side of things (including ECU and immobilser) installed, nothing at the dash end I think. I can get pics tomorrow night of this (the ecu / loom / any other bits) if required.

 

As for lambda, I actually have 2 probes, but only 1 wired in (the other just has the wires chopped). The lad that does a lot of these installs doesn't have any issues regarding this on any of his other conversions. 

 

Is it the usual 22mm spanner for the lambda? Worth taking out, brushing off carefully then putting back in?

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Although you have two probes. Only the wired in one is the Lambda. The other probe is a heat probe and the engine can be run easily without it which is why I guess its been chopped.

 

Yes, its a 22mm spanner. Its always worth a clean before buying another. It might just work. Even if it only works for a short time, at least you will then know to replace that item.

 

You may have a big problem finding a code reader. It was a thing called Subaru select and was phased out when OBD became the norm. You may get lucky and find someone with an old one, so worth asking.

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Although you have two probes. Only the wired in one is the Lambda. The other probe is a heat probe and the engine can be run easily without it which is why I guess its been chopped.

 

Yes, its a 22mm spanner. Its always worth a clean before buying another. It might just work. Even if it only works for a short time, at least you will then know to replace that item.

 

You may have a big problem finding a code reader. It was a thing called Subaru select and was phased out when OBD became the norm. You may get lucky and find someone with an old one, so worth asking.

 

OK, I'll give that a blast this week.

 

Where, should I need to, would be a good place to but these parts? Local motor factors or specialist (or here!)? This includes MAF.

 

Oh, coolant temp sensor has also been mentioned, is that a potential issue?

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Im fairly confident it will be Lambda or maf to be honest.

 

A Lambda is not too expensive but mafs are so it would be nice to be able to interrogate the ecu for stored codes before buying one.

 

If you have a look at the wiring loom, somewhere near the grey plug, you should ideally find two, single wire, black plugs and possibly two green ones. By plugging the black ones together and turning the ignition on, you can see how many times the check engine light flashes which equates to a code. If you have no check engine light or even the plugs, we could be struggling a bit.

 

If thats the case, it might be worth asking the installer if he has a MAF that you could borrow, just to test before buying one.

 

Try these people for parts. Not everying is on the website so worth a call if you cant see the bits.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/default.asp

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Im fairly confident it will be Lambda or maf to be honest.

 

A Lambda is not too expensive but mafs are so it would be nice to be able to interrogate the ecu for stored codes before buying one.

 

If you have a look at the wiring loom, somewhere near the grey plug, you should ideally find two, single wire, black plugs and possibly two green ones. By plugging the black ones together and turning the ignition on, you can see how many times the check engine light flashes which equates to a code. If you have no check engine light or even the plugs, we could be struggling a bit.

 

If thats the case, it might be worth asking the installer if he has a MAF that you could borrow, just to test before buying one.

 

Try these people for parts. Not everying is on the website so worth a call if you cant see the bits.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/default.asp

 

I've actually already tried the 2 black plugs, to no avail. The LED's have been installed in the dash regarding that, and there are no flashes unfortunately. Unsure if I've got the 2 green plugs, but will check this week.

 

As for the installer, he's 300 miles away, so that's a no-go!  :lol:

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So when you plug the two blacks together and turn the ignition, the two red lights do nothing?

 

If there are no codes stored (so no issues) the light should bling continuously and steadily. If codes are stored, they should give long flashes and short flashes, but I guess you knew that. :)

 

Might be worth asking if you could borrow a same colour maf (they have coloured labels on) on the internet around you.

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So when you plug the two blacks together and turn the ignition, the two red lights do nothing?

 

If there are no codes stored (so no issues) the light should bling continuously and steadily. If codes are stored, they should give long flashes and short flashes, but I guess you knew that. :)

 

Might be worth asking if you could borrow a same colour maf (they have coloured labels on) on the internet around you.

 

Will do.

 

Many thanks guys, you've been great.

 

I've just spoken to the fella I bought it from (the guy who did the conversion), he's sending me a free MAF and Lambda. :D

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A simple test, although not totally conclusive. with the engine idling, unplug the maf. If there is absolutely no change to rpm or smoothness, the chances are the maf has had it.

 

 

Thanks Tlag for helping mate :)

No problem Pete, happy to help. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well well well!

 

A replacement MAF sensor arrived on Christmas eve, and with me finishing work early, I quickly went out to swap it over. When I unbolted it, I was presented with this - 

 

11562916624_60e5125703_c.jpg
 
Please note the bottom-left fixing, sheared away from the rest of the housing. 
 
11563013086_42c0369898_c.jpg
 
Needless to say, put the replacement one on, and all appears well! 
 
Merry Christmas! :D
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