Jay762
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Everything posted by Jay762
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I agree does look better lowered slightly
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Wotcha and welcome. my favourite front end of the legacy models It is quite easy to run an aux cable - the standard subaru head unit does not have a jack, the aux extension is part of the loom. What head unit do you have. If it is aftermarket there is a good chance it will have an aux socket which you can run a lead to a 2.5mm female. Talk to breakers about the loom if it is a subaru unit. The rear release could benefit from a bit of lube of the moving parts and possibly teh cable - unless the cable has snapped?
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Not seen any pictures but this may help. I had the opposite situation, manual wind in and researched auto wind in based up on ignition cut. There is a loom you could buy from Japan which fits and connects tehh ignition to the mirror controls. I believe you have the other way around and there is no retract button just the loom connected to the ignition. If you could source the right switch unit then check the plug connection to the switch unit you may find a gap or a wire in place but not being used. So connecting up the new unit may have it working..... More likely though is teh plug will have a wire missing which you could fit yourself if yoiu are happy going through diagrams to find where to splice it into
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Sounds like the synchros worn. do you have the 5 speed box?
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Wotcha and welcome - are you sure there are no leaks / compressor wheel engages?
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Same on passenger door but also needed the central locking motor installation as well
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Actually putting somethng back on - door speaker wire upgrade, tidy up the aftermarket central locking installation and repair to the sleeve old (blue and red) vs new new central locking 5 core cable in the sleeve as well loom wrap to ensure sealed 5 core routed nicely, following existing wire path Ready for replacement speakers And sleeve back in place
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Dash removal to get access for clutch pedal installation Oh damn - that loom is going right where the clutch pedal needs to be.... best get the rest out then as we will need to reroute that
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Master cylinder off for a service
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Inspecting the fuel pump - once tank had been cleaned and underseal removed
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Front subframe arb removal
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Further stripping the rear subframe, think those bushes are a bit suspect Prep for bush removal crossmember bush removal Arms bush removal
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Dropping the front subframe, more plus gas
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Underseal liberally coated but only a little surface rust to be addressed, fuel lines will need that rust sorting as well Rear brake lines have been replaced at some point but not the tidiest job
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Next the petrol tank - pretty dirty Straps came away easily enough Clean underneath though
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Rear subframe removal - lots of plus gas and a Milwakee impact wrench made light work of the nightmare bolts - phew!
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Getting the bracket to fit the rear diff
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R180 vs R160 diff, quite the size difference Test fit of the R180 catching the rear subframe exhaust mount bracket Diff to subframe cross bracket hitting the diff casing
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Hmm yes it was Dropping the rear diff
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Rear end Heavy calipers will be replaced with newage alloy / brembo items R160 rear diff with a slight leak, R180 diff will be going in to match the 6 speed box The rest looks dry and a little rusty - Have read many stories of classic owners and battles with these bolts... This liberal use of underseal wouldnt be hiding anything now would it..????
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Driveshaft off
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Next is the auto box... Drive shafts were pulled but missing photos of that
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Detaching auto transmission from block Powersteering pump off Ok lets get it pulled... finally on stand
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aftermarket exhaust not in too bad shape but mounting bracketry all rusty Flex joint broken hence meaty sound when driving 🙂 System removed
