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Legacy GTB estate? possible new owner


philip5660
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Hi,

I'm new here and I'm thinking of buying a GTB estate 1997 - It's currently off the road and has approx 75000 miles apparently. I am told by the owner that (according to his mechanic) the car will need the following items for MOT

2 front/rear drop links
2 front arm rear bushes
Cross pipe between manifolds broken
Psr hub assembly
Psr rear most tie arm

 

**I'll also be needing a towbar - are they available for this car?

Can any one advise how much approximately it would cost for the above parts - I'm trying to work out if it's more trouble than it's worth! The real unknown for me is this cross pipe - common problem? expensive?
I'll be doing most if not all the work myself - I've always had mr2's/celica and I'm not familiar with the Subaru setup - Any advice appreciated! 

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Hello mate, mileage is nice and low. I'm not sure when the first cambelt change is due (tiag will know) how much is he asking for it? Regarding the bits needing doing your find them easy enough on eBay or "Japanese import cars"web site. The only thing I see you picking up second hand is the cross pipe between the manifolds,what's wrong with the pipe?is it rusted away or damaged .if its been damaged you may want to check around that area.

A tow bar on a gtb no no no .........only joking mate,if you wanna tow caravans at 150mph plus I'm cool with that

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Hi and welcome along,

 

The cross pipe between manifolds is a fairly common place to rot throught and cause an exhaust leak. Its very easy to get to and is held with 2 bolts at either end. Its encased in a heat shield.

 

You should be able to get a replacement quite easily. (I have a few around the workshop if it comes to it).

 

The drop links are readily available, although better quality ones are about the same price as standard oem ones.

 

The front arm rear bushes c an also be changed easily (changing them for an anti lift kit makes a world of difference though)

 

The hub assembly and rear tie arm should be easily available.

 

Whether its worth it or not comes down to how much of the work can be done yourself and how much the car is for sale for.

 

Cambelt is worth doing at that mileage, especially if you dont know if its been done or not. Although, you can tell if its recent by taking a cover off.

 

Towbar is a contraversial one. Ive seen and driven plenty of GTB's with tow bars. However, the car was never designed to have one and it was never on the options list which means the car was never tested for one. However, the UK Legacy was available with a tow bar, is the same chassis and type approved for it. Plus, the tow bar fits straight on

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Thanks for the prompt replies guys - Well 900 asking price open to offers - so we'll see!

Anything that can be done with axle stands/ ramps I'll be able to do myself - although if it needs a timing belt I may involve a professional - it's one thing I have never done.

 

Tiag - How much do you think roughly for the list of parts?

 

Also when is cambelt due on these?

 

And towbar is essential I'm afraid - I also have a GT-four for normal business :)

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I would think you will probably get the bits you need, some new some from a breaker for between £200-£300.

 

I may actually have a tow bar around the workshop somewhere. I seem to recall removing one a few months ago. Brand new, Im not sure the cost of them.

 

A cambelt replacement is fiddly,  but easy enough and should take you half a day with plenty of advise from the guys on here. Belts are anything from about £40 and up.

 

Has it failed an mot on some of these items. Is it for sale on the internet? do you have a link to it. Theres a chance I know the car.

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Here it is - I wasn't sure if i was allowed to post a link here

 

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/subaru-legacy-gtb-twin-turbo-estate/1055903510

 

I'll find out more when I see it but the story is that his mechanic has advised it needs these things.

 

Hey sounds like I might be buying a few bits from you ;)

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I dont know the car but it looks tidy enough from that poor quality picture :)

 

One thing to bear in mind though. Its automatic which is no problem in itself. However, depending on what you are towing, how far you intend towing it etc, you may need to fit a transmission cooler.

 

Going with a manual one is potentially the better way to go for towing purposes.

 

If you are going to look at it, check around the rear arches very carefully. That seems to be where they rust first, as well as inside the rear doors, at the nearest point to the arches.

 

mechanically, it will probably have a bit of piston slap from cold until it gets a bit of warmth. Thats normal and nothing to worry about. If its still doing it when warm, walk away.

 

Once warm, after a drive, engine still running, lift he bonnet. Pull open the yellow flap on the coolant overflow tank (attached to the rad) any signs of overflowing or lots of bubbles, walk away.

 

The rear hub and link bar rings alarm bells. Has it slid into a kerb sideways or anything like that. Just be wary of any accident damage on that corner. Rear tie arms dont normally need replacing for anything.

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Thanks mate - that's the type of specific advice I was after. The towing element isn't a big deal - it'll just be a jetski (300kg) or small trailer - it won't be towing on a daily basis.

I'll look in that area for any sign of distortion/kerbing accident damage as you say.

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Well.... I swung by the guys house and had a look.

As suspected above the problems around that rear hub are down to an impact with a kerb. The guy was upfront about this and showed me a pic of the damaged wheel (which was replaced since).

One of the rear doors has some rust starting along the bottom and also on the upper sill there is line (join) which is starting to rust. There is a scuff on the front bumper that would need paint to make me happy.

Engine was cold on arrival, on starting piston slap was evident and no smoke when revved. Oil looks clean as does coolant.

The car is SORN so a sneaky test drive was had on a twisty hilly B road. It drove surprisingly well, I was expecting alot of clunks and pulling to one side but it actually was ok. I struggled with the auto box - opening it up on the B road didn't provide the instant gratification of my gt4 but then that's auto boxes I guess.

The temperature held ok during the test drive and the brakes worked (which was good news). I did comment that the car was nearly out of petrol, however he thought there was half a tank in it which means that there could be a sender/gauge issue.

On return the engine sounded good - no piston slap.

I just left it that I would have a think about it and make an offer if interested. So for now I'm undecided.,,,,,

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