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NEW PROBLEM Possible Head Gasket ?


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ok not had any luck as you no i had problem with timing that is now all done beautiful new belt pullys tensionors ...Also replaced the radiator to yesterday toping up with coolant and with in a minute it was boiling like hot steam coming out header tank really hot....

i used a blue coolant ready made...

Drove a hundred and fifty yards and temp gauge was high so pulled over removed thermostat drove back home temp gauge just above the normal ...Could this be head gasket as when i rev i get condensation out the back ... i did used to here water running through the pipe behind dash when i started car up but not any more and heater only blows cold air  ithis any thing to do with my over heating problem ....

when i start the car i can see little steam in about a minute i think it maybe were i spilt coolant on heat wrap on stainlessteel manifold......could i not have bleed system properly

please help

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do you think so matt ? im not sure i bleed the system im going to be honest i no i will get slated but i just opened the cap poured in coolant with engine running ..massaged top and bottom hoses on rad with cap of the espantion tank put in about 3 and half litres waited about 15 mins as it kept rising up and down bubbling hot then droping back down then rising back up again then i put cap on espantion tank drove about 200 yards temp was high..the rad is brand new first time used 

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Some checks you can do. Have a look for

 

Bubbles of air coming up into your radiator (remove cap before starting) Don't do this when the engine is hot only from cold

 

run the engine they should be no air bubbles showing in the filler tank -leaking radiator -milkshake colored oil -overheating -rough running -coolant in oil- or oil in coolant -spark plug(s) that have a green tint (if green coolant). -white colored or sweet smelling exhaust. I emphasize "may" include one or more of these symptoms

 

turn on the heater; often when the head gasket is blown an odour of coolant and synthetic rubber will emanate from the heater vents.

 

Check oil cap for gundge like milkshake looking gunk you will know if it is. :(

 

But I would also check for any blockage with the rad and check you removed all packaging from the rad . But the only real way to know for sure if it is the HG is by getting a sniff test done not sure if you can get one to test at home. 

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ok no gunk on oil filler cap or dip stick ..spark plugs are good not very old but are fine...no leaks on rad  car running great no rough idle smooth even the couple hundred yards i drove wasmooth not even a shake when turn over ..when i rev there is condensation out the back not a great deal but not thick it evaporates almost immediatly 

as i say if i add coolant it will rush up to filler cap boiling hot steam and then bubbles.....is there a test i can get and do at home think a sniff test

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Deffo sounds like airlock, you need leave interior heater on full hot so can circulate whole system.

If thermostat old it may be worth getting new one for refitting.

When I refil as soon rad almost full I start car then top up as needed & squeeze top rad hose to help shift air, also increasing revs for short duration helps pump force water better & perhaps move an airlock (back off throttle slow or chucks some water out rad filer)

Some condensation from exhaust is normal until car run for some duration to clear moisture in exhaust & be full running temps.

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gambit cheers buddy going to see if they have one in  stock i dont no how to bleed the rad for air lock 

how much coolant does my car take as think about 3 n half litres i put in before it began to bubble and throw it out

could i be lucky and just have an air lock i did keep adding coolant when it was bubbling over top of header tank but i did stop ...will get another  thermostat today from euro car parts or halfords and give someone a drink to bleed my system and see how i go from there

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there is lots of ways to bleed them I've read the best way is to jack the front of the car up but lucky I've not had too much of a problem when I've done it before I just sit and worry every time the fans come on :D for 2 weeks :)

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is there a bleed valve anywere to help mbleed the system thanks

also on my new rad there is two brass pipe elbows that look like there isupposed to be a pipe joining them am i right as they are not joined now was yesterday but removed them as thought it was wrong they are on the end of rad by Battery

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Heres the adivise I gave someone else recently:

 

All the flat four Subaru engines can be a pain to bleed the air out of the coolant system when refilling them. Ideally, it needs to have the front of the car in the air. Fill with coolant and start the engine, with the filler cap off. Put the heater on full heat and aim the air at the windscreen so you can feel the temp with your hand from outside, . Keep topping up as required. You should see bubbles in the header tank that will eventually disappear. Just after that, the rad fans will come on and go off. At that point turn the engine off, let it settle and cool a little. Top up the coolant of required and replace the cap.

That does seem really quick for the temp gauge to rise, which indicates to me, its probably an air blockage.   

 

No, There is no bleed valve on thses cars. It would make so much sense to have them though.  

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thankyou i will give it a go i am going to change the thermostat first and make sure all hoses are on tight ...then i will jack front of car up in the air ..let you no how i get on..the other thermostat looked ok but got new one in case ..

big thankyou

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i did put it in sink with boiling water from kettle nothing happend maybe not hot enuff so got new one.....i remember a hose used to make a sound of gurgling water behind the dash when i used to start the car not been doing it for a while now and no hot air from heater maybe when i remove air lock all will be good again

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ok new stat fitted bleed system got nearly 4 an bit litres coolant in car waited for fan to kick in and stop but car bubbling hot before fan had chance to stop temp was halfway my son thinks pump may need to be changed  not circulating coolant it was making a noise so give that a go today also heater never got warm still cold air would that be to do with pump to. if this dont work i dont no 

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It does sound like an airlock/water pump issue. Once the pump is changed, filled with coolant with the header cap off, you should see the coolant moving/flowing in the header tank.

It just dosnt sound like HG's from what you describe.

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Would be surprised if pump the issue, only have pumping issue if blade corroded badly or clogged with sludge & not a normal problem on Subarus.

Could be lucky & the draining & refilling helps move an airlock should that be the problem.

Other thing check is the thermostat fitted correct way round/up ... if all checks out & still playing up could be time put a gas analyser over rad cap or get a chemical test kit to check for combustion gases in the cooling system ...

As said above does not sound like normal HG issues so rule out airlocks & basic cooling faults first.

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pump being fitted in an hour or two i do hope all is good but if not then i dont think it has been a waste of time but if it fails it will be hg jobbie.....i hope this time it dont boil ...when fan kicks in it boils over so new pump could be awnser if not then head gasket

fingers  crossed

mr b were can i buy a gas analyser from have tried euro car parts no ,luck and halfords to buddy any idea ok pump now fitted moving on to timming in mo tea break  lol

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