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Featured Replies

Ok i loosened front nuts on lower hub/strut but i didnt finish strut change because i thought i read somewere about marking something but couldnt remember were it was so could anyone clarify what i should mark for alignment thanks


As you look at the two bolts holding the strutt to the hub the top bolt has a oval shank passing through the hub .

So the bolt head must be marked so the point of the oval shank position isn't changed on reassembling .

On classics the bottom bolt is standard type shank (acts as a pivot) and the top bolt position adjusts "camber" (how parallel the tyres sit to the road)


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what if i moved bolt slightly erlier when i removed nut would i be able to score a line on hub arm so when its put back into new shock arms it lines up

You might be able to see inside the hub "hole" and work out the position that the point of the oval was originally in .

And yeah I normally scribe a line on the hub arm or transfer the mark off the old hub onto the new one .

Or just get it geo'd afterwards as I've heard that the prodrive geo set up is quite a improvement over standard geo anyways [emoji6]


Yes 4 wheel alignment will be fine , I've just used chap who although he doesn't have the latest kit but he knows what he's doing his 4 wheel alignment does camber caster and toe etc charged the the grand total of 40 quid as long as you get someone who knows how to use the kit you'll be fine,

Kwik fit near me have a hunter but they cant use it properly and they'll charge a ton for the privilege

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