Peroni

Edit: I got the price wrong above. Dealer seeking £6,600.

Yes, Mr B, That annoyed me when I asked about possible re-spray, dealer says "I can't see what you are talking about, where do you see re-spray?" ` I point out "orange peel", missing scuff protector on one rear wheel arch ( probably removed to aid re-spray) but still present on other side, overspray on plastic wheel arch liner. Then he says "Don't know, I suppose it's possible", "Must be a good job if I can't see it" Straight away you are into a dishonest relationship and you both know it. What's it going to be like if a fault develops later? Your point about patience is a good one. It's as much a philosophical game as anything. Knowing a good car will turn up eventually. Every time I've bought something I wan't sure about, in haste, the "perfect" car has turned up the following week. Frustrating as hell looking at all these mis-described cars though.

OK. I found an on-line owners manual. Looks like it is the "self levelling headlamp warning light" which warns that the auto self-levelling is not working. I think I've seen MOT fails for this on MOT histories of various Hondas. The car has HID lamps which must not be allowed to dazzle oncoming cars, so there's no user-adjustable method, its all done via small actuators, usually on suspension arms. Anyone replaced one of these? Is it an easy/cheap job? Vendor said he would get an auto electrician to look at it but I'm concerned he may just "make it go away" rather than repairing whatever is causing the fault.

Been looking at a 2011 2.0 l manual XS, Forester, 89k miles, FSH, 2 owners, for sale in small dealership ( portakabin office, chain fenced lot ) Car seems to have been re-sprayed on passenger side. Some "orange-peel" paint, slight overspray inside wheel arch. Dealer asking £8,600 Would signs of a partial re-spay put you off a car this age? It's easy enough to get a bad scrape across passenger side, I've done it myself. Hard to know what it's covering though. ( The last Forester I was about to buy, in Wales turned out to need a cam-belt, even though advertised as "Cam Belt Done" "FULLY SERVICED" ( they didn't mention it was 5 years ago), rear exhaust box rotted & repaired with gum and was also a grey import from Canada, again not mentioned in advert) I'm getting weary.

Saw this warning lamp on the dash of a 2011, 2.0l petrol, manual Subaru Forester that I am interested in buying. Vendor ( dealer) didn't know what it meant ( or claimed so ), he asked me "does it matter?" I replied that it does if it's an MOT fail. Anyone know what it means and the implications of it? Thank you. It's at bottom right of picture, looks like a headlamp symbol with two arrows, upwards & downwards.

Thank you Tidgy, Some useful info there, for example I didn't realise that "FB" meant the 2.5 litre engine. Much of my research has been using US sites and they seem to favour the 2.5L. So, the 2.0 litre is still getting by on a cam belt then? That at least simplifies things. I've been deliberately avoiding the 2.5 litre petrol engine on reports of common head gasket failure, but I still see plenty for sale at 100k + miles. Maybe I need to re-think?

I'm (still) looking for a good 2009-13 petrol, manual Forester. Last one I looked at had 44k miles, 2012 MY, "FSH", and £9,250 asked. However the vendor ( an ex-Subaru franchise) and the original supplying dealer had no idea if cam belt had been done or not. My probing on this point and my lack of need for a "finance package" seems to have made the vendor dump me for another, later, customer enquiry. Very rude of them I thought. Anyway, I'm wondering if that model year (2012) actually had a cam chain rather than a belt? I see mention on "Honest John" web site that the 2009 revision resulted in a chain-driven cam but I can't see when, and to which engine models, it was introduced. Anyone know when the Forester 2.0l petrol engine got a chain?

Yes, the diesel fuel is an issue for my wife. Well remembered! Agreed that there is a large grey area because the petrol will put out more CO2 ( kills polar bears/ice caps) and the Diesel puts out particulates (kills urban humans) so each one is "bad" in its own way. I had thought about an XC90 but a bit put off by reports ( on "Honest John") of less than sterling reliability? Reliability and low running costs is a biggie for me. Lovely interiors on the Volvos though, very tempting. The Subaru "symetrical" AWD has got me very interested though. The idea of a car with genuine off road ability is intriguing. Currently running a 2.0l petrol Honda CRV and the very high reverse gear ratio is not good for its clutch when reversing heavy trailers. The Hi-Lo Subaru would be good for that. The CRV is not really an off roader at all I am discovering, prefers to go sideways on mud.

Thanks Mr B. When you say "up to 2009" are you including the "new" ( more SUV styled ) Forester that came out around 2008? ( sorry I don't know it's model designation) The reason I ask is that I am keen to have the 2,000kg towing limit of the later model. As an aside; what year did the Forester get a cam-chain (rather than belt) ?

Thanks for your help Mr B. ( Why so few responses on this BB? Is it a very quiet forum usually?) Your comments were helpful in making my mind up. I paid for a report from ClickMechanic because I could not get down to look at the car myself. The report shows exhaust has been repaired in 4 places and will probably fail again fairly soon, 6 faults in immobiliser system and general heavy wear inside car. Decided against purchase as the car is just too worn and unloved looking for the price in my book. Interestingly the inspection guy had owned a few older Subarus in his time ( STi's) and reckoned the build quality has dropped since his early 2000's models. The search continues but there are so few of these ( 2litre, manual, petrol) for sale and many are rusty and hard pushed. These cars are not rich people's posing machines so its hard to find one that's had an easy life.

Some more pictures.

Dealer does have a good (honest) reputation locally. Yes, I wondered about a repaired exhaust rather than a replacement. It's not going to last as long as a new one is it? How much would an after-market stainless system cost ( might be a good bargaining chip) ? How many catalytic converters do these cars have as standard? I thought it was two. Any view on how thorough/useful an RAC inspection is?

Thanks, Chimes in with my own thoughts; scuff marks. Exhaust was re-welded at some of the joints where pipes join boxes. 78k miles. FSH -ish , £5900 asked. I always budget around £500 on any new car to tidy it up.

Thinking of buying a 2008 Forester. Have had pics of underside sent by vendor. I'm worries about corrosion having had to scrap a 2006 model for bad rust. Does this look sound to you, more experienced, owners? Some questions raised in my mind looking at these pics: 1) Has it been sprayed to cover rust? 2) Does the long chassis member on the right of the picture look like it has been welded or damaged in some off-road activity? It looks different to the other one. 3) Any bits missing? ( heats shields, exhaust mounts?) PS: Exhaust has been repaired, hence dazzling silver paint finish, it was the exhaust repair centre who took these pics. Some responses today would be very helpful as I need to make a decision soon.

I've seen a 2009 Forester 2.0l, manual petrol that I like, for sale. Vendor says the heated seats are not working though. As someone who benefits from the heat on my lower back in the winter I'm keen to have this feature. My question is; is heated seat failure common? If so, is it usually an easy fix or is it likely to be a fault within the seat itself? ( not so good).

I'm following this with interest. I'm also looking for a 2.0l petrol, manual Forester. I think it will need to be 2008 onwards though. All the pre-2006 I've looked at have MOT failures for serious corrosion (no doubt fixed up to pass MOT). I'm looking for a car with minimal rust underneath but sadly all the older ones seem bad for rust. I'm also keen to get the 2-ton towing capacity from the post 2008 models. Please keep us updated Don.

Decided to keep looking as I thought the car offered was overpriced. Still have some questions; like how did they achieve the drop in CO2 to 170ppm? Was it by fitting two cats? In which case potential mega bill if they both fail?

Thanks for that Brack. How does the rear suspension on this one look? Does it seem tired or OK? It was kind of "floaty" at the back I thought, but I've nothing to compare it with.

My dilema is that I want a 2009 onwards model because it can tow 2 tonnes. Seems to be less of them for sale. Add in that my missus doesn't want a diesel (pollution controversy), it needs to be manual & 2.0 litre, non-turbo for better mpg and it narrows the field a lot. Having said that, maybe the turbo or 2.5's aren't so bad on mpg as the motoring press makes out?

Thanks Fozster, That sounds a better deal. I really need a car that is ready to go to work, without any input from me. I'm too busy at work and rely on my vehicle for business to take time out for repairs. Hence going to dealer to get ( I thought) a car that has no faults. Howvere, it seems the way dealers operate here is that the customer has to spot all the faults with the car and they then promise to fix them before you buy. Leaves me wondering what I may have missed. Up until now I've always bought privately and find that a preferable way to buy. ( in many ways less risky too it seems). Problem is all the private sales are older, high mileage cars. The newer ones seem to be all in dealers for highish prices. I'm not sure what to do. Let the dealer repair the wheel bearing and take the risk that there may be other faults, and that the car will be worth only £5, 500 a minute after I pay £7,600 for it. Or wait until my perfect car comes up as a private sale and be ready to pounce on it. Hmmm

Impressed with your dedication. That sounds like a hell of a lot of work. Will the manual box mate with the "auto" crankcase housing ? That surprises me, I thought there would be too many different parts to make it feasible. Best of luck.

Pretty quiet forum this, I'd hoped for some advice about buying a Forester. Is my post offensive in some way I've not realised? I test drove a 2010 2.0l XS toady. Seemed generally OK apart from loud thrumming sound at 40mph +. Wheel bearing I thought or could it indicate deeper problems with transmission?

Apologies for just seeking info, I hope to be able to contribute here in time. I once had a 2006, 2.0 , XE manual for a few months which I loved. Only problem was I bought the car after being told it would tow 2 tonnes and then found it could only tow 1.5T. It is the 2009 (Mk 3) onwards which had that 2T capacity. I didn't want a diesel (wife objects) and I'd somehow mistakenly thought that all Mk3's were diesel only. Just discovered that you can get 2009 onwards petrol engined, manual cars that will tow 2 tonnes, so I'm back in the game! I've been eyeing up a 2010 plate 2.0l XS, petrol, manual at a dealer's up north and thinking of placing a deposit on it. Price seems a lot at £7,800 for a 90k, 9 year old car which has full SH up to 68k but nothing thereafter. Dealer has promised to do 90k service & replace timing belt. Does that price seem OK? My question is, is there still a lot of value/life left in a 90k Forester? I like to keep my cars for 8-10 years. Given the underbody rust on my last one I'm not sure this prospective car has that much life in it? I'd like to be able to up to tow 2 tonnes as my work requires towing a range of trailers. The Foresters low-ratio box appeals, especially when reversing with a trailer on muddy tracks/grass. I'll attach a pic of the previous one, which I loved. I think the older one has better looks, new one is a bit of a mish-mash but perhaps a more useful beast? I'm also hoping to get the 3-4 extra MPG from the 2010 model over the 2006. There was a suggestion of a noise a bit like knobbly tyre on tarmac when I test drove the one I'm looking at. Haven't had time to follow it up. Could it be a wheel bearing or worse; G'box issue? I'm getting another test drive tomorrow and hope to evaluate more thoroughly. Any comments, "watch out for"s , advice, hints, tips much appreciated. Thanks, Wulbert.

Greetings from Glasgow. I'm looking to get back into a Forester (maybe as early as tomorrow!) I used to have a 2006 2.0l petrol and liked it but had to let it go because it could only tow 1.5t. Looking at a 2009 onwards model as I have recently discovered that they can two 2 tonnes. I'm wanting a 2.0l manual, petrol as it seems cheapest to run. Hoping to get good advice here, on-line "Road Tests" are useless "...the Subaru is a very much niche car..." Here's a pic of the old one which I liked a lot: