SF5Fozzi

It'll most likely be the tps plug. 

Get an oring pick & remove the white slider thing from inside. Then the little tabs inside can be bent slightly whilst tugging on the wires, they'll pop out.

the female connectors will have got wider, so making poor contact with the tps connector male blades.  

On each female connector there's a little square opening on the side, you can use an angled pick to bend the tab back in so the hole is tighter.👍🏻

20 hours ago, Mr B said:

Forester SF rear lateral arms are same parts that can be found on G10 G11 body code impreza and B11 legacy, no length difference .

🤔hmmm.

i beg to differ. 

To get my geometry correct I had to order the gc8 sti pink arm set.

The trailing arms are the same length.as the brackets are different heights  

The pink set of arms were about 10mm shorter than the arms that came off my Forester. 

I then had to purchase the gc8 pink sti arb link & brackets set because the pink arms have no mount for the oem 'c' shaped arb links. 👍🏻

On 9/10/2020 at 6:03 PM, Tidgy said:

where ever you get it mapped dont get dunkhan graham aka racedynamix, total cowboy.

😄.this is on going to become your slogan. LoL

On 4/1/2021 at 7:18 PM, gemlp82 said:

If anyone is a definite yes we could try get some more to join in and get something sorted.

I'm a yes

👍🏻

Sorry that was a long wait. In all honesty, I did forget. 

Hope these pics help.  

On 1/10/2021 at 10:16 PM, Mr B said:

I shouldn't really tell you this as it trade secrets 🙂
Drivers and passengers window an easy fix and common failure due to water ingress in front motor due to clocked housing position caused by introduction of crash bars in the front doors, never buy a new motor as original crazy money and aftermarket useless junk, buy a used passenger side  rear as they same front drivers side and rear drivers same as front passenger side besides a water drain fittings needs clocking position changed and original harness tails swapped over ideally but rear tails will work and worth using if connectors or harness better condition (plugs in to motor assembly in weather sealed connector so cab be swapped) they about £20-£30 for tidy rear ones and rears- 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on front doors as motor sits upside down in passenger rear .
You can improve motor drainage for front mounted motors by removing motor housing alloy cup (practise on an old motor first) and making 2 small weep holes (0ne towards front and one towards rear) and add couple drops lube in bearing points. Put plenty grease around drive gear .
You can pull just motors off front doors by just removing the #3 philips screws, you will need very nice fitting 1/4" bits (don't want camming out) and a bit ratchet or 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to hold the bit which works nice as gives ratchet right amount standoff, working blind mainly but if you pick up used motors first you see fixing points that make it more obvious how proceed with job & can test fir your #3 bits for perfect fit and good bite plus will have spare screws probably better condition  than your fronts .

These should do the job > (late SF has same plastic moulded and stamped metal butyl sealed cover motors as SG, even earlier motors actually better made with cast alloy housing and pressed metal cover with screw point  flange and proper rubber gasket)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Passengers-Left-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892236473
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Drivers-Right-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892237422

Spot on.

And the anti-roll bar part numbers below. 

The black series bushings came with my rollbar in the bag. Quite good, they got little ptfe hairs inside, so no grease needed. 

The roll Center kit that fits foresters in pic below 

The sf5 Forester's suspension is what I would call(in standard form) 'very much boat like'. 

Swapping to a kit with stiffer springs would be a good start, like pedders suspension, they do a straight swap standard height kit that's quite good. Then a thicker rear arb fitted from a gc8 impreza would be better because the oem is really quite thin. Oem brakes don't stop very well either.

If you want the geometry correct with a forester that's as low or lower than an impreza, then you'll need to swap the trailing arm brackets to gc8, rear roll bar brackets to gc8, rear gc8 sti pink arm kit, gc8 propshaft bearing housing, gc8 gearbox cradle, gc8 front subframe u bolts with subframe spacers removed, gc8 gear lever assembly, gc8 intercooler undertray, gc8 roll centre kit, plus other odds n sods Iv probably forgotten about. 

I think Iv got the part number for the whiteline roll bar I got I look for u tomorrow 👍🏻

The later impreza gc8 rear subframes fit. You'll just have to make sure to get the forester arms because they are longer than impreza arms because of the suspensions ride height on the forester's being taller.

im running everything impreza gc8 on mine because it's so low.

I just noticed your on about trailing arms. 

Impreza trailing arms fit as it's the bracket that's different between the forester & impreza.👍🏻 

Hi. How was it disconnected?

was the wires de-pinned from the plastic connector?

what colour wires have you got coming from the motor to re-connect?

I might have a vf23 from a 22b. 

For the right price, Obviously!

👍🏻

I agree about the h&s systems. 

H&S afterburner vortex back box is what I have, sounds good (I think anyway. My neighbours might not think so though!)   

Not sure about the scoop situation though.

if you can't find one then you could make 1 up.

Mine did not fit, because at the time there wasn't one for an sf5, so I made it fit. I cut the bottom off & re-fibre glass'd the bottom area shape, so I could fit it to my bonnet. Reusing the oem slider bolt things. So it bolts straight on like oem. 

Hi. How did you wire it up?

Usually, one would purchase a turbo timer loom specific to your cars make and model. 👍🏻

You've undone the 2x bolts that hold the top of the gearbox, the pitch stop ?

The engine is hanging correctly & should be on a suitable engine hoist ?

& the mounts are good?

If that's a yes to all, then you should just be able to give it a wiggle n' push with your hands and it'll go in smoothly both sides as you lower it.  No crowbar normally is needed.

I would say, the primary concern here is the steering knuckle fouling the downpipe issue. 

Iv experienced that sort of fouling problem when using cheapo brands. Your either gonna 1. have to marker Pen the area that touches, then take off the pipe and smack it with a hammer & put it back on & keep doing that till it clears, but you risk bending pipe. And it's a load of effort. 

Or 2. get a quality branded pipe that fits correctly out of the box. 

Then the running lean issue would be the next issue to sort out. 

🤔I would just get a new oem sensor with a new quality brand pipe. 

8 hours ago, jude123412 said:

ok so my brother has a subaru impreza wrx sti 2008 hawkeye and he has just fitted a blanking plate on the dump valve recurculator to see if it makes turbo flutter noises but in stead it causes a backfire on de-acceleration? anyone know why this is and have a fix for it?

I presume the blanking plate has been put in the turbo inlet pipe?, With the valve's recirculating rubber hose now acting as a vta?. 

If that's what you've done then u can't vta with a maf, it has to be speed density tuned.👍🏻 

Hmmm, surely, for the price u would pay for a decent set of golds, u could get them black 1's refurbished back to gold for cheaper maybe?

On 3/7/2021 at 5:16 PM, Tidgy said:

your gonna get alot of differing opinons, but i would stay well clear of a guy called duncan graham, aka racedynamix, hes a proper cowboy.

LoL. 

Long shot...., but try this out.

Make sure you got voltage in the Battery. Then disconnect the wires at the alternator. 

Try starting it. 

If it starts then the alternator's bad. Sometimes the alternator can appear to be operating properly but it can send a disruptive signal to the camshaft sensors that can cause a no start issue. 

Worth a try🤔

Nightmare. 

@savage bulldogs ,

If the ignition fuse was blown then the fuel pump would not prime👍🏻

Well if it's a standard engine, with standard parts used,  it should run good without any teething issues. 

U get a few teething issues with a fresh engine with every part uprated, as the ecu will not like it, until you get a running in map for you specific engine. 

Smell of oil usually is oil burning on the exhaust. 

No boost or power usually is a vacuum issue. 

Ticking can be exhaust manifold slightly leaking, injectors(some can be much loader than others) or the valves have been incorrectly gapped. 

Are your camshaft & crank sensors getting a signal when you turn it over?