savage bulldogs

Sorry ,I thought you originally said the car was a turbo version and it had a na engine fitted due to the turbo one popping .

What year / version is the car ?

Not sure if the cabin loom would have the correct number of ECU plugs and pins for a turbo ecu ?

Or if you'd have to fit a under bonnet turbo loom to get the other extra sensors that a turbo engine uses ie... b.c ,map ,maf ect 

Tbh 1200 cc injectors are way  overkill ,the standard the (smallest oe classic) grey 380cc injectors are good for 290hp . Yellow 440s (biggest oe classic) injectors and the 20g are good for 350hp , which is enough to break most classic engines and definitely most classic gearboxes .

Once you know what version the car is based on and you've checked both cabin /engine/under bonnet loom compatibility  . I'd suggest to fit a wrx ECU of that year /version with the same injectors and turbo that the ECU runs . You can leave the fuel pump ,as the fuel pressure regulator will keep the fuel at oe pressure. But you'd need to remove any other non standard breathing mods .... ie run wrx tmic ,standard air box , catted downpipe ect .

So the car is as close to the standard map on the ECU as possible and keep the cost down while you save for a "mappable" ecu . Otherwise those injectors will bore wash the cylinders and that turbo will be too big for the internals and drivetrain..... you'll be rebuilding again before you're run in otherwise 

Happy dayz. 

I'd suggest to get santa to bring you a afr gauge , as it's always nice to keep a eye on fueling. 

As for a running in ECU/map that would depend on what model and version scooby it is . Ie if it's a wrx then fit a wrx ECU of the same version/year along with the oe sized injectors and turbo for that ECU map . This should theoretically mean it's a standard wrx running a standard map and simplify wiring. Then disconnect the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid and loop a vacuum line from turbo outlet to actuator. 

This should by pass the boost control system solenoid and run at "actuated pressure " . Meaning it should only run at the strength of the actuator spring , which is normally about 0.6 bar pending on the oe turbo model spring strength. 

Once the engines in and ready to run in , I'll happily give you some advice on my usual running in process but its listed on my v7sti engine refresh thread in the build thread section 😉

Always glad to help with most things scooby,  chap 👍

Unfortunately my n/a knowledge isn't too sharp but start a build thread and feel free to tag me in it if you have any further questions .

Best of luck ,clive 👍