Justin Time

Perhaps you've already tried this, but I'd simply give my AA/RAC/Green flag, etc. a call and let them work it out (but DON'T buy the battery from them!).

Regarding the possible cause(s), I'd suggest you also post your issue on here, as they have a much wider experience of Subarus and OBs. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ Hope you get it sorted.

If you're anywhere near Harrogate, and can't get a decent quote for the wheel rotation, there's a little indy Skoda garage we've used for 20 plus years for our Skodas, who are very decent. Re Lanoguard. It's not like the old heavy underseal that was used and stayed on for 'ever', that would often split and let water in and hid the rust under the coating. Lanoguard needs re doing every 18 months or 2 years or so. It cost us £180 per car and we had to take the cars (we did the Skoda a few weeks later too) there and leave over night to collect the following lunchtime. They put two coats on and let it 'cure', No jet hosing underneath for at least 7 days as it continues to 'cure'. I can't see that it would have any effect on the warranty as it's not permanent and you can work on/ and see all parts underneath if needed. Less of the "old git"! You're at the prime of your life, physically and mentally. I should know, I'm 66 years young too :) Great re the Subaru dealer and the oil change. Did your car come with the 3 year free servicing pack? If so, how does that work regarding paperwork, etc? Mine has it, and I've a sheet of printed A4, with it mentioned, but it's not clear how to redeem. Presumedly, there will also be a Subaru record of this one-line, and I also have the sales docs which highlight the servicing deal from when I bought the car.

Glad you're getting it sorted. If you're keeping the all-seasons on all year which makes good sense, then the cost of rotation every 7000 miles or so, will either be be zero if you do it yourself, or considerably cheaper than £80 if you go to a garage/tyre shop. If you take the car to a tyre shop/garage, to rotate the wheels, there's no way it should cost anyway near £80! That £80 I quoted was for taking the winters/summer tyres off the alloy rims, then exchanging and refitting the winters/summer tyres back onto the alloy rims, and balancing the wheels. This is obviously a much longer and specialised job ( taking about 45 mins to an hour), than simple switching wheels front to back and vice versa. A good garage should be able to the latter in 15 mins or so, and no need for rebalancing of course. It's really easy for a garage with the jacks and stuff. Nothing technical. Just make sure they torque them up correctly using a torque wrench and not over tightening them. And you'll need to retest the torque the following morning ( when there's a cold temperature), after you've driven the car some miles. You can buy a torque wrench easily and a half-decent one isn't expensive (or take it back to the garage. The one i use will do a free re-checking of the torque for people without a wrench) I had the oil and filter changed the other day at 1000 miles. Cost £150 and took the car to an indy Subaru garage and they did the job in about an hour. I think that's a fair price, as when I looked online for the cost of the genuine Subaru parts for me to do this myself, these were the following prices: OIL: 5L of 0w-20w £82.95 £11.95 shipping. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/product/subaru-0w20-genuine-engine-oil/ Filter: DL Motorsports filter and crush washer £12.90 +£5.00 shipping https://www.dlmotorsportparts.co.uk/products/15208aa160-subaru-oil-filter-2012-onwards?_pos=4&_psq=15208aa160&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Total £112 plus a few quid for a new sump plug crush washer. I'm happy with paying a bit more as it saved me crawling under my car on a cold wet day, getting dirty and cold on the driveway, and having to dispose of the oil and old filter. Come the summer however, I'll do it myself. How are you getting on with the lane departure 'driving assistance' stuff? I'm finding it much more annoying than on my old Gen 5 OB, which i could switch off permanently. I now have a series of 6 or 7 touch screen presses to switch the thing off, every time the ignition is back on.

Yes, they are considerably less than impressive. Of course Subaru farm this out to International Motors Ltd (IML) based in Solihull I believe. Lack lustre doesn't cover it. They seem to be well behind the curve and are still aiming at full electrification (and the death of) of Subaru in Europe and the UK, just when it looks like the tide is returning to sanity, and full petrol again. Hey ho.

I think the MrSubaru vid i watched suggested trying a thicker oil if the car started to burn oil more than expected. I'll stick with the 0w-20w for now, certainly as the warranty is still in play. My last OB clocked up 45,000 miles and showed no signs of burning excessive oils and I never had to top up between services. The tyre replacement issue is, I believe, the same for all permanent 4x4s such as Toyota Land Cruisers, Land Rovers, G-Wagon, etc. so not unique to Subaru. Prior to the 2020 OB, I owned a few Skoda 4x4s - 2 yetis and an Octavia. The owner's manuals for each also mentioned the need to keep all 4 tyres at the same diameter (tread depth), but as these 4x4 systems were on-demand only, using a viscous coupling, I can't see it being a real issue for those cars. The on-demand 4wd would only likely be triggered for short distances in mud/snow/sand etc. and at low speeds, not all day, all the time, at higher speeds. The Subaru system is 100% full-time and at all speeds. Travelling at 70 mph on a motorway with mismatching tyre diameters and characteristics is likely to be problematic for the transmission, I'd think. Buying a set of Bridgestone all seasons seems a great idea. Have you thought of just keeping them on all-year and either selling the summer tyres or keeping them 'just in case' if you have the space? That's what we've done on my partner's Skoda Karoq 4x4 which she bought last year. We immediately bought some Pirelli All-Seasons and they're going to stay on until they're done. I would have done the same with the new OB, but having the old set of winter tyres around, with good tread on them, just seemed wasteful. As I mentioned before, I think I'll be buying all-seasons when these wear. It's costing me £80 x 2 each year to get them switched over. This wasn't the plan when i bought the previous OB. All my other cars have had a set of steel winter rims with winter tyres on- Skoda OEM steels. But when I bought the OB in 2020 there were covid related supply issues, so I couldn't source a set of Subaru Steel rims (17") and was forced to swop tyres each year (18"). I could source some Subaru Steels now, but as I no longer commute, and can decide whether the weather is a bit too risky to drive or not, I think all-seasons would be fine, rather than full winters, for my needs. All-season also beat summer tyres for the sorts of places i now drive in the summer too. Muddy fields and tracks (equestrian stuff, etc. ) means that extra grip compared to summers will be a plus. CVT? Yeap, that Subaru nonsense about never, ever changing the fluid! Again, just to be fair, my last two Yeti's and my partner's Karoq all had/have "sealed for life" fluid in the Haldex 4x4 gear box. I guess it's the same for VW and Audis too. Personally, as I don't tow, I think I'll keep to Subaru's plan until i clock up say, 100,000 miles or so. Here's why. In the UK it's really difficult to find a Subaru dealership that will agree to change your CVT fluid for you. There is a thread somewhere, where a member did organise it with a garage up in Northumberland, if i recall. Also, I maybe wrong (and there are more knowledgeable people on this forum), but changing the CVT fluid isn't just a matter of draining and refilling on the newer Subarus. There are issues with making sure the fluid is at the right temperature, blah, blah...and recalibrating some of the electrical sensors and stuff. I believe the fluid only comes in huge drums and is really expensive and must also be genuine Subaru fluid. So why have I thought 100,000 miles? The warranty is for 60,000 and / or 3 years. My thinking is that if there's a transmission problem at say 70,000 miles, when the car's out of warranty, Subaru still have SOME liable. We all often confused a warranty from the manufacturer with our consumer rights. A warranty is in addition to your statutory rights. If you've keep the car serviced regularly and competently serviced, and can prove that, and there's no evidence of any misuse, then I think it would be reasonable to expect that any car would still be fit for purpose at that age/mileage. So I'll stick to the Subaru 'sealed-for-life' stipulation until then. Final thoughts. Again, there will be others better qualified than me to comment on this on this forum, but from reading the Subaru US website and MrSubaru, one of the common problems of people taking their Subarus to a garage for servicing not experienced with Subarus, is that the front diff and CVT drains/fill plugs get confused really easily and that's a disaster (definitely a warranty and sales of good right void :) ). Happy motoring.

Glad you're enjoying the car. I've recently just bought a new OB Touring too, so I'm in a similar position, although I owned a Gen 5 2020 OB which I traded in. These are likely to be the last petrol OBs coming to the UK and the EU (although we'll see if common sense prevails and Nut-Zero is ditched). Mine is just coming up to 700 miles, so still running in and I'm planning to do my first oil change very soon and then the next at 2000 miles and then every 6000 miles. Yes, that's not what it says in the owner's manual, where I think it mentioned 12,000 miles. In reality, if you look at the best advice coming from the US, 6000 miles seems to be the sweet spot for boxer engines. see here for detailed advice too, It's a great resource. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ Also the best advice on Youtube is : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mrsubaru1387 Watch out for battery issues (read this site for advice. I've posted plenty on this). In short, drive with sidelights on to force the alternator to charge the battery; don't leave the boot open too long without taking precautions; don't use start/stop; switch off the wi-fi and updates in the car settings etc.). Tyre rotations are really important. The car comes with none directional Bridgestone tyres (check) and the manual shows you how to rotate these (front to back and cross L to R, and then obvious bak to the front - no crossing). With directional tyres it's just front to back and back to front the same side. I also have a set of winter tyres (but might go all-season when these wear) I had this set on my last OB and they have another winter's worth of wear yet. I get them switched at a local tyre garage and ALWAYS mark (FO,FN,RO,RN) them up. The ones coming off the car at the garage are marked for their positions, and then this allows me to remark them in their new, different positions the follow season when they're either being put on or taken off the rims. If you have all-seasons, or the OE Bridgestones only, these also need rotating every 7000 miles or so (again see how to do this in the manual). Here's the bad news though. If you get a none repairable puncture and need a new tyre you need to replace the while set - all 4! Hard I know, but the all wheel drive system doesn't like different makes of tyre on difference axles or different tyre characteristics or diameters. I've been lucky up to now and always have a spare set (summer or winter) to switch too if ever needed. Obviously, with all-seasons you only need one set of tyres so a new set would need to be bought. The OB has a place for a spare. I've kept my old, only used once, full-size allow spare, from my old OB and it fits well into the new one. Some people do a 5 wheel rotation that incorporates the spare too (if it matches all the other tyres) so if they have an irreparable puncture they don't need to buy a new spare, but this is too complex for me and there's issues with TPMS!! My spare, stays a spare, it doesn't match the tyres on the new car anymore, but is only used for relatively short distances in an emergency. You've got a 3 year warranty. Previously, when out of warranty, I used a Subaru specialist to do my serving, up in Hexham. I should have found them earlier. Maybe that's too far for you? https://gilesgateautocare.co.uk/ They're excellent and had my car in the other week for a couple of days for a Lanoguard under seal treatment. I want this car to be a 'keeper', so I've invested in that (£180). Jap cars do have a tendency to rust more than European motors, especially in salty conditions like rural north of England roads or the coast. I found the Subaru dealerships to be poor, but as my car came with a 3 year servicing deal I'm going to use them for the annual service, but will use Gilesgate for intermediate oil changes, while the car is in warranty. I could do these between services oil changes myself but my experience with Subaru UK on warranty issues is not v. good, so a VAT registered garage during the warranty period is prudent. Hope that helps for starters. Just ask if you need owt else lad :)

Hope you get this sorted Bowesy. That's a delicious looking car, and I'm not envious one bit,.. No siree, not me :)

https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/subaru/outback/reliability

Have a quick look at the tyre pressure sticker on the car where it will also list a range of tyre sizes for you vehicle. If 225/60/17 is listed, it'll be ok. If it's not then there may be issues with clearance with suspension etc. and speedo readings (due to the difference circumferences). Also, if it's not a manufacture recommended size, then you might be considered as having modified the vehicle and this could be an insurance issue too (and some of us know what complete bar stewards insurance companies can be and will look to wriggle out of liabilities if there's an option).

Hi. Outbacks /Subarus are still fairly rare in the UK so also consider this US site where Subaru's and Outbacks are very popular, so much more info. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ As I'm on my second Outback, I clearly have a fondness for them. I like their safety, size, comfort, etc. There are quirks however, and the mainstream dealership I've found to be wanting. Look for an independent garage if there's one near by. They're reliable but change the oil much more regularly than the owner's manual suggests (every 6000 miles?) if you want to keep it long term. Great off road, with proper all-season or winter tyres. Reliable and I never had any issues with my last one 50,000 aside from dealership problems. They'll be heavier on brakes and tyres perhaps, and expect to get 30 - 35 mpg if driving on A and B roads with hills. I wouldn't buy one for heavy commuting, or doing local trips to and from the shops. But for safely driving the family around the countryside, and all your gear, in comfort, they're great.

I've had this happen once to me in the last couple of weeks I've owned the car. However, I'd been messing with the auto lock on the powered boot so it might have been that. Hasn't happened since although I've tried to repeat the situation. The OB and maybe other Subarus in the UK (and Europe) have an odd alarm system installed. Have a look in your bundle of booklets you received for something called "Category 1 Alarm System Operating Instructions" for vehicles with smart entry (with selective unlock", if you have one. Also, have a look in the lower dash near to the bonnet release lever. There's a small fuse box which flips down. On the inside lid of the cover you'll find a small key pad. This is where you can control various alarm features. Before you touch however, make sure you have a set of silver stickers on which is printed, headed "IMPORTANT Your pre-programmed PIN is: @@@@@" . I've always steered well clear of touching this in my previous car, but was tempted to see if i could switch the internal alarm off when I left a dog in the locked car. As it was, I found a quicker method which was just to swivel the two spherical 'sensors', either side of the A frame, so they pointed down. The alarm never sounded with a dog left in, so it worked for me, although he was usually quiet and laid in the boot. A more active animal might have triggered it. Hope you get it sorted

Don't tow myself, but here are just a few reviews that suggest it's Ok but not great with the CVT. If I was doing towing myself, I'd go for a Skoda diesel 4x4 like the karoq/octavia. Friend of mine has just picked up a '17 plate Nissan x-trail diesel for pulling her horse trailer. 210 mm of ground clearance and lockable 4x4 option too. Does the job really well. So few diesels on the market now being sold :(

The reason why it is important for me is that I compete in, and support, events in the equestrian world, and attend lots of local agricultural shows too. Practically all of these are held on agricultural fields (meadows/pastures), and particularly with our climate we have plenty of rainfall and muddy gateways to enter and exit. This year, for example, I was marshalling on an equestrian endurance event in the north of England. Just a regional/county event, where some 45 riders arrived in their horse boxes or towing horse trailers and parked on the field. As marshals, we helped them onto the grass field and parked them up. It had rained moderately the night before, and then rained over the course of the event (5 hours). There was only one gateway on and off the field. I'd had enough foresight to drive the OB off the field and park it along the lane during the event so as not to get trapped. As the riders were returning, loaded up and then attempting to leave, the ground near the gateway became 'somme-like', and we had to tow some 20 plus vehicles off with a tractor. I learnt a number of lessons while hitching the chains to the front and undersides of those vehicles: 1. Most of the drivers didn't know what a tow-hook was, or where they might find one in their vehicle. You can picture the frenzy of people, in the rain, opening their trunks and unloading saddles, tack and the rest of their gear, in order to get to the underfloor space. 2. VAG groups cars (Audi and VW, etc.) have a LH thread on their tow hook/eyes! Why? 3. We were towing some pretty hard core 4x4s (Land cruisers and Defenders) off that field as the drivers seemed oblivious to how to use low-range and locking diffs. I'll not comment on the gender of the drivers, but given it was a 'horsey' event you might guess. Well we all have to learn! Anyway - all got off safely, and despite the rain there was good cheer all around and no damage. I hope my tyre choice and the Subaru's capabilities, will lead me to avoid the ignominy of sharing these experiences in the future. But for a supposed outdoor enthusiast's vehicle, this is a serious omission. Further thought. We've had some flooding in the UK recently, and I've been aware from the news of stranded vehicles needing to be towed out of water. I'd imagine it would be much more of a challenge to try and attach a line to the Gen 6 tow eyes, underwater, than the traditional bumper bolt hooks in the front bumper, same goes for a vehicle stuck in deep mud - messy and tricky burrowing under the front bumper. Most vehicles still have the screw in bolt hook, so I wonder why Subaru abandoned this. I wonder if I need to invest in a shackle(s) of some sort. Maybe a galvanised screw pin bow shackle - one that will fit the hole in the plate?