Justin Time

I think the MrSubaru vid i watched suggested trying a thicker oil if the car started to burn oil more than expected. I'll stick with the 0w-20w for now, certainly as the warranty is still in play. My last OB clocked up 45,000 miles and showed no signs of burning excessive oils and I never had to top up between services. The tyre replacement issue is, I believe, the same for all permanent 4x4s such as Toyota Land Cruisers, Land Rovers, G-Wagon, etc. so not unique to Subaru. Prior to the 2020 OB, I owned a few Skoda 4x4s - 2 yetis and an Octavia. The owner's manuals for each also mentioned the need to keep all 4 tyres at the same diameter (tread depth), but as these 4x4 systems were on-demand only, using a viscous coupling, I can't see it being a real issue for those cars. The on-demand 4wd would only likely be triggered for short distances in mud/snow/sand etc. and at low speeds, not all day, all the time, at higher speeds. The Subaru system is 100% full-time and at all speeds. Travelling at 70 mph on a motorway with mismatching tyre diameters and characteristics is likely to be problematic for the transmission, I'd think. Buying a set of Bridgestone all seasons seems a great idea. Have you thought of just keeping them on all-year and either selling the summer tyres or keeping them 'just in case' if you have the space? That's what we've done on my partner's Skoda Karoq 4x4 which she bought last year. We immediately bought some Pirelli All-Seasons and they're going to stay on until they're done. I would have done the same with the new OB, but having the old set of winter tyres around, with good tread on them, just seemed wasteful. As I mentioned before, I think I'll be buying all-seasons when these wear. It's costing me £80 x 2 each year to get them switched over. This wasn't the plan when i bought the previous OB. All my other cars have had a set of steel winter rims with winter tyres on- Skoda OEM steels. But when I bought the OB in 2020 there were covid related supply issues, so I couldn't source a set of Subaru Steel rims (17") and was forced to swop tyres each year (18"). I could source some Subaru Steels now, but as I no longer commute, and can decide whether the weather is a bit too risky to drive or not, I think all-seasons would be fine, rather than full winters, for my needs. All-season also beat summer tyres for the sorts of places i now drive in the summer too. Muddy fields and tracks (equestrian stuff, etc. ) means that extra grip compared to summers will be a plus. CVT? Yeap, that Subaru nonsense about never, ever changing the fluid! Again, just to be fair, my last two Yeti's and my partner's Karoq all had/have "sealed for life" fluid in the Haldex 4x4 gear box. I guess it's the same for VW and Audis too. Personally, as I don't tow, I think I'll keep to Subaru's plan until i clock up say, 100,000 miles or so. Here's why. In the UK it's really difficult to find a Subaru dealership that will agree to change your CVT fluid for you. There is a thread somewhere, where a member did organise it with a garage up in Northumberland, if i recall. Also, I maybe wrong (and there are more knowledgeable people on this forum), but changing the CVT fluid isn't just a matter of draining and refilling on the newer Subarus. There are issues with making sure the fluid is at the right temperature, blah, blah...and recalibrating some of the electrical sensors and stuff. I believe the fluid only comes in huge drums and is really expensive and must also be genuine Subaru fluid. So why have I thought 100,000 miles? The warranty is for 60,000 and / or 3 years. My thinking is that if there's a transmission problem at say 70,000 miles, when the car's out of warranty, Subaru still have SOME liable. We all often confused a warranty from the manufacturer with our consumer rights. A warranty is in addition to your statutory rights. If you've keep the car serviced regularly and competently serviced, and can prove that, and there's no evidence of any misuse, then I think it would be reasonable to expect that any car would still be fit for purpose at that age/mileage. So I'll stick to the Subaru 'sealed-for-life' stipulation until then. Final thoughts. Again, there will be others better qualified than me to comment on this on this forum, but from reading the Subaru US website and MrSubaru, one of the common problems of people taking their Subarus to a garage for servicing not experienced with Subarus, is that the front diff and CVT drains/fill plugs get confused really easily and that's a disaster (definitely a warranty and sales of good right void :) ). Happy motoring.

Glad you're enjoying the car. I've recently just bought a new OB Touring too, so I'm in a similar position, although I owned a Gen 5 2020 OB which I traded in. These are likely to be the last petrol OBs coming to the UK and the EU (although we'll see if common sense prevails and Nut-Zero is ditched). Mine is just coming up to 700 miles, so still running in and I'm planning to do my first oil change very soon and then the next at 2000 miles and then every 6000 miles. Yes, that's not what it says in the owner's manual, where I think it mentioned 12,000 miles. In reality, if you look at the best advice coming from the US, 6000 miles seems to be the sweet spot for boxer engines. see here for detailed advice too, It's a great resource. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ Also the best advice on Youtube is : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mrsubaru1387 Watch out for battery issues (read this site for advice. I've posted plenty on this). In short, drive with sidelights on to force the alternator to charge the battery; don't leave the boot open too long without taking precautions; don't use start/stop; switch off the wi-fi and updates in the car settings etc.). Tyre rotations are really important. The car comes with none directional Bridgestone tyres (check) and the manual shows you how to rotate these (front to back and cross L to R, and then obvious bak to the front - no crossing). With directional tyres it's just front to back and back to front the same side. I also have a set of winter tyres (but might go all-season when these wear) I had this set on my last OB and they have another winter's worth of wear yet. I get them switched at a local tyre garage and ALWAYS mark (FO,FN,RO,RN) them up. The ones coming off the car at the garage are marked for their positions, and then this allows me to remark them in their new, different positions the follow season when they're either being put on or taken off the rims. If you have all-seasons, or the OE Bridgestones only, these also need rotating every 7000 miles or so (again see how to do this in the manual). Here's the bad news though. If you get a none repairable puncture and need a new tyre you need to replace the while set - all 4! Hard I know, but the all wheel drive system doesn't like different makes of tyre on difference axles or different tyre characteristics or diameters. I've been lucky up to now and always have a spare set (summer or winter) to switch too if ever needed. Obviously, with all-seasons you only need one set of tyres so a new set would need to be bought. The OB has a place for a spare. I've kept my old, only used once, full-size allow spare, from my old OB and it fits well into the new one. Some people do a 5 wheel rotation that incorporates the spare too (if it matches all the other tyres) so if they have an irreparable puncture they don't need to buy a new spare, but this is too complex for me and there's issues with TPMS!! My spare, stays a spare, it doesn't match the tyres on the new car anymore, but is only used for relatively short distances in an emergency. You've got a 3 year warranty. Previously, when out of warranty, I used a Subaru specialist to do my serving, up in Hexham. I should have found them earlier. Maybe that's too far for you? https://gilesgateautocare.co.uk/ They're excellent and had my car in the other week for a couple of days for a Lanoguard under seal treatment. I want this car to be a 'keeper', so I've invested in that (£180). Jap cars do have a tendency to rust more than European motors, especially in salty conditions like rural north of England roads or the coast. I found the Subaru dealerships to be poor, but as my car came with a 3 year servicing deal I'm going to use them for the annual service, but will use Gilesgate for intermediate oil changes, while the car is in warranty. I could do these between services oil changes myself but my experience with Subaru UK on warranty issues is not v. good, so a VAT registered garage during the warranty period is prudent. Hope that helps for starters. Just ask if you need owt else lad :)

Hope you get this sorted Bowesy. That's a delicious looking car, and I'm not envious one bit,.. No siree, not me :)

https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/subaru/outback/reliability

Have a quick look at the tyre pressure sticker on the car where it will also list a range of tyre sizes for you vehicle. If 225/60/17 is listed, it'll be ok. If it's not then there may be issues with clearance with suspension etc. and speedo readings (due to the difference circumferences). Also, if it's not a manufacture recommended size, then you might be considered as having modified the vehicle and this could be an insurance issue too (and some of us know what complete bar stewards insurance companies can be and will look to wriggle out of liabilities if there's an option).

Hi. Outbacks /Subarus are still fairly rare in the UK so also consider this US site where Subaru's and Outbacks are very popular, so much more info. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ As I'm on my second Outback, I clearly have a fondness for them. I like their safety, size, comfort, etc. There are quirks however, and the mainstream dealership I've found to be wanting. Look for an independent garage if there's one near by. They're reliable but change the oil much more regularly than the owner's manual suggests (every 6000 miles?) if you want to keep it long term. Great off road, with proper all-season or winter tyres. Reliable and I never had any issues with my last one 50,000 aside from dealership problems. They'll be heavier on brakes and tyres perhaps, and expect to get 30 - 35 mpg if driving on A and B roads with hills. I wouldn't buy one for heavy commuting, or doing local trips to and from the shops. But for safely driving the family around the countryside, and all your gear, in comfort, they're great.

I've had this happen once to me in the last couple of weeks I've owned the car. However, I'd been messing with the auto lock on the powered boot so it might have been that. Hasn't happened since although I've tried to repeat the situation. The OB and maybe other Subarus in the UK (and Europe) have an odd alarm system installed. Have a look in your bundle of booklets you received for something called "Category 1 Alarm System Operating Instructions" for vehicles with smart entry (with selective unlock", if you have one. Also, have a look in the lower dash near to the bonnet release lever. There's a small fuse box which flips down. On the inside lid of the cover you'll find a small key pad. This is where you can control various alarm features. Before you touch however, make sure you have a set of silver stickers on which is printed, headed "IMPORTANT Your pre-programmed PIN is: @@@@@" . I've always steered well clear of touching this in my previous car, but was tempted to see if i could switch the internal alarm off when I left a dog in the locked car. As it was, I found a quicker method which was just to swivel the two spherical 'sensors', either side of the A frame, so they pointed down. The alarm never sounded with a dog left in, so it worked for me, although he was usually quiet and laid in the boot. A more active animal might have triggered it. Hope you get it sorted

Don't tow myself, but here are just a few reviews that suggest it's Ok but not great with the CVT. If I was doing towing myself, I'd go for a Skoda diesel 4x4 like the karoq/octavia. Friend of mine has just picked up a '17 plate Nissan x-trail diesel for pulling her horse trailer. 210 mm of ground clearance and lockable 4x4 option too. Does the job really well. So few diesels on the market now being sold :(

The reason why it is important for me is that I compete in, and support, events in the equestrian world, and attend lots of local agricultural shows too. Practically all of these are held on agricultural fields (meadows/pastures), and particularly with our climate we have plenty of rainfall and muddy gateways to enter and exit. This year, for example, I was marshalling on an equestrian endurance event in the north of England. Just a regional/county event, where some 45 riders arrived in their horse boxes or towing horse trailers and parked on the field. As marshals, we helped them onto the grass field and parked them up. It had rained moderately the night before, and then rained over the course of the event (5 hours). There was only one gateway on and off the field. I'd had enough foresight to drive the OB off the field and park it along the lane during the event so as not to get trapped. As the riders were returning, loaded up and then attempting to leave, the ground near the gateway became 'somme-like', and we had to tow some 20 plus vehicles off with a tractor. I learnt a number of lessons while hitching the chains to the front and undersides of those vehicles: 1. Most of the drivers didn't know what a tow-hook was, or where they might find one in their vehicle. You can picture the frenzy of people, in the rain, opening their trunks and unloading saddles, tack and the rest of their gear, in order to get to the underfloor space. 2. VAG groups cars (Audi and VW, etc.) have a LH thread on their tow hook/eyes! Why? 3. We were towing some pretty hard core 4x4s (Land cruisers and Defenders) off that field as the drivers seemed oblivious to how to use low-range and locking diffs. I'll not comment on the gender of the drivers, but given it was a 'horsey' event you might guess. Well we all have to learn! Anyway - all got off safely, and despite the rain there was good cheer all around and no damage. I hope my tyre choice and the Subaru's capabilities, will lead me to avoid the ignominy of sharing these experiences in the future. But for a supposed outdoor enthusiast's vehicle, this is a serious omission. Further thought. We've had some flooding in the UK recently, and I've been aware from the news of stranded vehicles needing to be towed out of water. I'd imagine it would be much more of a challenge to try and attach a line to the Gen 6 tow eyes, underwater, than the traditional bumper bolt hooks in the front bumper, same goes for a vehicle stuck in deep mud - messy and tricky burrowing under the front bumper. Most vehicles still have the screw in bolt hook, so I wonder why Subaru abandoned this. I wonder if I need to invest in a shackle(s) of some sort. Maybe a galvanised screw pin bow shackle - one that will fit the hole in the plate?

Anyone know where the front tow hook(s) is/ are situated on a 2021 - 2025 OB? My old Gen 5 had a standard screw in tow bolt - hook which was placed in position behind a plastic cover on/in the front bumper. But, there's no plastic cover on the front of the Gen 6 (however, there is one on the rear and a tow bolt-hook to screw in which is kept in the car's standard kit with the jack, etc.). The owner's manual indicates that the front towing hook (it says hook not hookS) is located on the bottom of the body on the front left and right side of the vehicle. So left and front - that'll be hookS, then! I've checked and they are there, but they look flimsy and consist of holes drilled through a pressed triangular plate. Even more confusing the manual reads "The front tie-down hooks are located between each of the front tires and the front bumper", which is basically the same as the 'tow hook(s)'! Maybe I've missed something?

Back in 2025, I acquired a new Gen 5 OB - one of the lasts. I bought a new, full size, alloy spare for it and the Subaru spare wheel kit I've just bought a new Gen 6 (one of the last petrol ones). So, I wanted to take my Gen 5 spare with me - 'brand new' never used (phew!). Easy peasy - just lift it out and install in the new OB. But! Unscrewing the wheel holder bolt that holds the spare securely in place, I reached the near end of the bolt and it stuck. Real hard. It took lots of WD40 squirts and mins waiting to allow it to penetrate before the threaded bolt came out. I didn't want to force it and risk threading it. It seems the lower part of the threaded bolt protrudes into 'air' beneath the car and so is exposed to the elements and gets rusty. Had this have happened on the road side, after a puncture, especially the dark wet and rain I would have been majority p-eed off. So, note to myself - check the spare more often, and as I put the spare into the new Gen 6 I gave it a liberal coating of heavy duty grease! Worth a check?

I regularly slept in the back of my OB (Gen 5) on long distance fell running trips to Scotland and such, camping out. If you search on line you'll come across various versions of the 'carabiner trick' - it works. Here's what I've been doing successfully for years. You need a small thin - the cheap zinc plated ones you find in hardware shops is fine - carabiner to hand. Open the boot with the fob, or button, until it's fully open. Then click close, so the boot starts to descend. Hold the carabiner firmly in the path of the metal lock on the underside of the boor lid. The lock will 'envelop' the loop of the carabiner. And the boot will stop moving - you'll hear the lock click and the motor will stop whirling. The car now thinks the boot is locked, whereas it's only part way closed. Slowly lift the boot lid manually to fully open (or as high as you need it). Check the dome light is out (caution, this light can sometimes be easily switched on by accident if you're moving in the back- some people tape over it to keep it closed). If you need further reassurance, check the instrument panel to see that there are no doors open (or the boot lid) to confirm if you're unsure. Now you're sorted for as long as needed. To close. Gently pull the boot lid down to about where you first inserted the carabiner. Now, press the open button, above the number plate (NOT the close / lock button on the underside of the lid), and the lock will release; the carabiner will fall out (catch it); and the boot will open to full, stop and bleep, as it believes there's an obstruction (that because it's not opened as far it believes it should) and it will close and return to usual closed position. There are several other methods, not involving a carabiner, but using keys or similar to press the lock closed, but I'v not tried those. The above method works well for me. I've yet to try it on my new Gen 6 I acquired last week. Can't see why it wouldn't work. I don't know if Subaru have fixed this issue, and don't have the desire to just leave the boot open for a long period and see if the battery has drained! If you need a quick battery check, and don't have a meter, here's another hint. With the ignition on, press and hold down the blue and red heater control buttons on one side of the main screen (doesn't matter which side). While holding these down, press and release the volume or tune buttons twice (you'll enter 'factory mode' - and 6 presses leads to 'dealer mode'), In these 'hidden settings' you'll see the charing rate or battery voltage level). Enjoy your event.

I've just changed from a 2020 Generation 5 Outback to a 2025 Generation 6, and I've noticed the very same thing, so it's not just your car. I'm going to have to see if I can get used to this in practice for a bit, but yes, I used to like the 'soft click', 3 or 4 indications, for lane changes which corrected itself off.

I think it was often DPF and EGR value issues, but that's true for a lot of diesels. Subaru were late to the diesel engine building, after much encouragement from customers - but you sense that their heart wasn't really into it. A quick look on autotrader will show quite a few diesels having clocked up 100,000 plus.