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About Jeronimo

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    Advanced Member

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  • Interests
    Classic Cars. The Facel has gone, thankfully, replaced with 1970 Jaguar E-Type FHC.
    I fly radio controlled models: slope soaring gliders, powered planes and helicopters.
  • Subaru Model
    Legacy Estate
  1. Complete dismantlement success Above EDIT comment does not entirely do me justice. There is a front cover hook accessible through the small hole but it is for the lower (black) cover. To remove the lower front cover release the LH hook, then the middle hook through the small hole in the motors frame. Pull the outer end away from the main body and the final hook can just be seen near to the folding motor mount. Poke with a screwdriver or other thin rod to release this and the cover comes off. To finish complete dismantling it is necessary to release the wires from the plug body. Carefully record (photograph/drawing) location of each colour wire. Remove 2 clips/retainers one each side of the plug: I think that just about covers it. Only hope I can remember how to put it all together once the weather improves so I can remove the broken mirror.
  2. The above linked post helped me to start with but not with my need for further dismantling which I achieved after much head scratching There's lots of video's on how to change the mirror glass on u-tube but none go further for my specific 2009 Legacy in how to take the mirror assembly apart so that the front cover can be painted if desired. Well, I got it apart. For this model, the glass can be removed either by getting it out of the plastic holder as described in videos or by fetching the black holder from the white mount: The mount (and plate) may then be removed by extracting the central screw. To further dismantle it is necessary to remove the front coloured cover (which is what I want off to re-paint). This is held by hooks through the main body part, 3 easily accessible at the outer end, 2 are hidden below the adjusting motor mount and 1, nearest the inside end is completely inaccessible, but no matter. First, prise away the 3 accessible hooks, pushing the cover forwards as much as possible. To get to the 2 under the adjusting motor mount, remove 4 screws holding it on. The hooks are accessible with difficulty through the 2 holes. I have an LED on cable powered by a LiPo battery which gives me light in tight spaces. Such is necessary (helpful) in finding these hooks and I used the long strong hex keys to prise off these 2 hooks. The front cover can then be removed, pulling the loose end round, releasing the final hook. Screws securing the main frame and the indicator repeater are now accessible from the front. However, so far, I have been unable to remove the main frame completely. I hope this helps others. Jerry EDIT: I just realised some of this is rubbish. There's actually 4 accessible hooks, 3 at the outer end and 1 at the top. There is only 1 hidden under the main frame accessible through the larger hole on the left. Releasing this allows the cover to be removed. Anno Domini strikes again
  3. I found this post on another Subaru forum (hope you don't mind) which helps some: I will report back on success or otherwise.
  4. Good day, good folks of the Legacy club I have a 2 car (side by side) car port with brick walls so my Subi goes in forwards and 'tother car backwards. I fold in the mirrors on the Subi and get it as close to the wall as possible - not right up against as there's some wood stored at the base but fairly close to give good access into drivers doors to both cars. SWMBO reversed out the other day folding out the mirrors on the way and dragging the one along the wall and busting it up Well, its a folding/heated mirror and I found a s/h one from similar age Subi on fleabay for 50 squid delivered. However, it's the wrong colour for my car and I don't know if it's a folder or not. So I want to take it apart so's I can respray the front, maybe to fit to replace the broken bits on the original unit. The mirror glass is OK there. Can anyone advise how to dismantle these mirror assemblies or point me to instructions please? Ta very much. Jerry
  5. I could do with a new exhaust system for my Legacy. Although it is heavily rusted it seems very solid though I am told it is blowing at the bifurcation - the separation of the single pipe to 2 going to the 2 silencers. I looked for recommendation on here and found the Gerlach system (on eBay) described as complete and suitable for the 2009 Legacy Estate, 127kW edition - which according to my registration document is what I have. I asked for confirmation and was then told this system does not fit and was offered just the 2 rear boxes - no use to me. I then looked at an alternative supply offered on eBay. Their advert also said it is suitable for my car but when I run their online check - says it is not suitable. Any ideas where to go for a suitable exhaust system? 2009 Subaru Legacy Estate, Variant BP9, Version 5G0 Capacity 2457cc Max power 127kW VIN = JF1BP9KL58G070973 Engine No. - 449230 Advice appreciated, thanks, Jerry
  6. Knocking at the back

    Well, it weren't knocking at the back, it was the front. One of the recently fitted roll bar droplinks had come loose. A quarter turn locked it up again and knock was gone.
  7. Knocking at the back

    Ah! The top mount, could be, I have not inspected that closely. Thanks.
  8. Knocking at the back

    Long time and no need to consult the forum but now I do. Legacy 2.5 Auto, 59 reg and 69k miles. Regularly serviced and MoT'd though I have only done about 9k miles since purchase Jan 2014. Recently it started producing a KNOCK whilst moving. This can happen when just about rolling forward and/or at any speed. It hardly seems related to any particular bumps in the road. I can go over several and no KNOCK, then something gentle and it goes KNOCK! I've had it on a ramp several times. I have replaced antiroll bar drop links front and back. I can see no loose connections of subframes to body, no broken road spring, nothing which feels loose or with play. It is not a transmission fault. Any ideas?? Could it be a shock absorber internal problem? There's nothing loose in the boot. Thanks for any advices. Jerry
  9. The eBay item is the retractable cover. I have that but it stops short of the tailgate and there's a gap which should be filled by a removable panel plugs into a slot in the tailgate. Thanks for looking Gambit. And thanks for the Coventry Dealer number, they are just about my closest. (no Thumbs-up smilie available ) Ta, Jerry
  10. As it says. This is for a 2009 model. WHY? My Legacy came without the panel which fits into a slot inside the tailgate to close off the view behind the load cover. Without this, boot contents can be seen through the rear window. The dealer (not Subaru) I got the car from did not help me find this. I won't call a Subaru dealer on principle, as they all use 0844 numbers Jerry
  11. Immobiliser

    Gambit's original advice to me for my OP was of course correct, as is the answer in post #14. Took me a while to cotton on to the key position required for a single press of the key button to be effective in turning off the immobiliser. Thanks Gambit.
  12. Immobiliser

    deleted because the quote button would not work :(
  13. Immobiliser

    Thanks Gambit. That will be very useful. Just as a reminder, my car is a 59 reg Legacy 2.5 SE Wagon. Jerry
  14. And is it a DVLA scam to get extra revenue? When selling the car, will we only get back tax to subsequent whole months whilst the new owner pays again from the 1st of same month? Clearly the refund should be for all the days paid for.
  15. Immobiliser

    Cheers Gambit. There is only 1 button on my keys which turns the alarm on and off. So pressing it once does not do the business. Obviously I don't want to disable the immobiliser completely. I don't understand why it needs to be active if the key is in the ignition and has been present when the alarm is turned off. If the immobiliser has to be activated sometime after the alarm is off, a more sensible delay period would be acceptable. The question is - can the delay be lengthened? Jerry