Mr B

KYB excel G shocks 334344 334345

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/333585256342

Springs (use heavy duty springs if load or tow it a lot and standard if just used more family light use road driven SUV)

RC6431 standard duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RC6431-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323873684791

RA6028 heavy duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323874493110

Note:
The seller (partsinmotion) who selling the shocks are always in the eBay coupon offers so you can get 20% off those prices if wait for a coupon .
The seller also has the springs but price not as good as what linked above as a pair set .
We use partsinmotion as registered business is near us and their prices on lot of parts far cheaper than best price on trade account factors we use.
We actually stock parts from eBay sources using 20% discounts as that cheap and enables us fit better brand parts at competitive pricing .

If you don't have spring compressor you need buy one but they under £15 .

I would advise the KYB protection kit which includes the bump stops as yours will be pretty bad I expect, most are on ones I done
Protection kit is under £20 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GG9-2-0-Rear-05-to-07-EJ204/333556449826

Lift blocks link below for you look at ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-strut-spacers-20mm-for-Subaru-BRZ-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Lift-Kit/192541769644

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-strut-spacers-30mm-for-Subaru-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-Lift-Kit/192541771902

Good thread on fitting shocks and finer details to SG forester >

Go KYB strut and spring.

Cost will be under £200 and it easy DIY job on the SG .

* I will link the parts (motorfactor trader on eBay) bit later as busy working at moment *

Do not lift by adding  longer spring because side efect of that is travel range of strut reduced .

If want raise it use better quality lifting blocks with metal tube inserts found on eBay from russia (they well into foresters over there)

I would do 20mm lift in rear and 10mm in front or max 30mm in rear and 20mm front .

For more ground clearance you be best going up in tyres like 215 70 15 or 205 75 15

20mm rear 10mm front and 215 70 15 tyres give sensible gain and keep road handling as should be

also get a alloy skid plate or make one for front sump and dump the plastic nappy subaru put on from the factory .
The Fozzy is a big boy now and got no use for a nappy ...

Not just brakes, good tyres and suspension/steering in good condition too .

Amount of people tight arses on poor shock and steering and worn bushes but don't care it causing more expense in ruining tyre set which important on a awd like subarus and also not bothered about safety, accident or recovery costs .

Unfortunately UK MOT's are **** poor on suspensions especially shock condition, Australia for example has a performance test for shocks which a good idea.
I would like see requirement of shock replacement at set mileage or age .

they look great now

good job 👍

red rubber or silicone grease every time .
That how it done at manufacture.
brake fluid pretty corrosive so using that at assembly results in some of it in grooves to outer side of seals/boots and then aiding corrosion.
the grease will help slow corrosion and feed and lubricate seals far better .
Same as copper slip debate on slide pins and pad to calliper contact, that far from a great idea, silicone grease or ceramic grease (plenty available specific for brakes and cheap) do a far far better job, also any grease on pad hardware should be between pad mounting hardware and the caliper not in the track and on the ear of the pad that runs in the hardware groove (grease job is reduce noises and corrosion that would rust jack making pads become tight in clips .
For DIY guys it worth picking up a tub of silicone grease and red rubber grease as last you decades and make your work better and easier .

Again this not just my opinion but what happens at manufacture, is written in service data and trained to technicians at dealership training seminars .

That should be good to go .

Is amazing what can clean up and rebuild if want to, we simply can't do it as labour and rebuild parts/materials come out 2 or 3 times the cost of a decent reman caliper .

About most we do these days is piston boot and slide pins.
In some circumstances we still do piston and seal but it generally due to parts availability and completion times or upgrade pistons/seals on good order calipers

2 hours ago, Siluro said:

Was there not a recall on these? I had my Hawk recalled and checked by Subaru, I am sure it was for the arms rusting.

It was front arms for recall but I do not recollect the SF forester had an issue or was included in the recall, SG was in the front control arm recall and done a few of them myself . .

Best proper fix for that was alloy arms off the XT or a STI .

They the same as the impreza arms so easily available new or used .

eBay and import car parts good places start looking .

here's some used forester ones for £35
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=forester+sf+trailing+arm&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4

you can find them listed under impreza bit cheaper, worth having bolts as they save a few quid if yours junk .

Parts for the SF easily sourced and pretty cheap .

They run on e10 okay, not a lot more of an issue than e5, plenty Subarus of same manufacture spec in other countries on e10 for years ..
Lot of reason murky doubt exists as creates a lot of scrap and new car sales .

I'd just buy 99 octane premium as while may seem more expensive you get better mpg from it and long term less issues so cost balances out .
e10 more of an issue on 2 stroke machinery and for an easy life premium well worth using .
The whole environmental gain of ethanol another doubtful area if really look into it in source to manufacture and add in vehicle service/repair  waste materials and actual equipment lifetime from using it .

an older one, newer models are not that long term durable .

You got 2 choices on these.

Good effort on headgaskets or full rebuild .

I've done a lot of them over the years and for road use standard cars if they good order low mileage head gasket issue dealt with quickly and no to light mods I done head gaskets only no issues if it passes my inspection criteria .
And yes I warranty a head gaskets only as I know from experience it a long term repair if initial engine evaluation done .
Full rebuilds are not without risks and you got be very choosy on who does the work, what machine shops and techniques/finishes they use and what parts are used . Most of your machine shops are useless, we have many local but need send parts 90 miles away to get work done to high enough standard and have more advanced machining solutions.

The bearing issues arise from service neglect, neglect in dealing with head gasket symptoms and power increases .

Full rebuilds became a tuner norm as more money to be made for less pre repair inspection effort and less risk plus most of their customer base more likely benefit or be willing pay for rebuilt engine .

If bottom end was inspected with stethoscope, oil examined, bores scoped, general engine state and vehicle use and owners needs listened to then right choice can be made .
Quite simply you can't bill every 2.5 customer a full rebuild. The engine and the owners need dictate what truly needs doing .
UK market for 2.5 is small, if look at US, Canada and Australia you get a far better understanding of 2.5 repairs .

metal
if replace filter in tank do so with oem parts only .

I wouldn't throw a working OEM pump away for aftermarket , none of the aftermarket or even bosch pumps match quality or lifespan of OEM japan .
The Walbro pumps being good example of this .
You could test pump with scope to see current draw and cumutator wave form which give good indication of health .
OEM pumps on non turbo live an easy life ....

Just charge in car and if need pull Battery for short period time (such as replacement) make a diy keep alive tool out of a pp3 Battery or 12v power tool pack and some elec cable and 2 croc clips .

Rapid drain is known issue on newer cars, ideally want look at a solar topup charger, Battery life will be seriously reduced due to prolonged discharge state  so best avoided as much as possible for convenience and your wallet and environmental waste  .

80mA is quite high.
average in the auto world is between 20 and 55mA .
When we test these we like to do a 24 to 48hr test with a Bluetooth logging meter to a laptop
(you sometimes find modules waking up for periods and drawing more current)

Subaru newer models got a known by owners issue on Battery drain if left standing for couple weeks .

Dealers and Subaru themselves seem be ignoring it, I would assume it engineered into car electric systems and not a easy resolve .

Is a nasty problem as besides potentially leaving you stranded it also going reduce Battery life drastically which means more manufacture and recycle pollution (batteries are one of worst for pollution in manufacture and recyle) and another hit for your wallet .

Modern cars are far from green , they consume ridiculous amount of parts, servicing chemicals in a very short lifespan .
What they have got really good at is parting you with a lot of money for poor engineering poor quality, poor warranty and poor service support . .

^
Welcome to the new eco era .If it inherent issue on new range it needs a recall as Battery drain in a week simply not fit for purpose, most manufacturers engineers design capacity and stationary current usage to last months, 7 days is a serious issue and I hearing many owners having drained Battery issues ...
If you want reliability and do your bit for environment older model vehicles do far better if review it in full spectrum not just tail pipe numbers .
New car from pretty much any manufacturer a waste of time and money these days unfortunately .

measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep .

Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power .

Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average .

Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your Battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive .

It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a Battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days .

Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst  ...

If fuel pump been going bad you had lot of potential running with fuel ratio lean.

I would be suspecting engine damage .
Your garage wants inspect cylinders with plugs removed and do a compression test .
They also want test the ease of turning engine cold to ease when warmed up and cuts out .
Piston and bottom engine damage fairly common when been running long durations with major faults  ...

But what have they sent you .

You can tell the difference between 1.5 and 1.25 pitch by eye and comparing a new supplied nut and one off car, the one with closest together threads being 1.25
Any numbers stamped on any of the nuts .

standard subaru thread pitch is 1.25 (M12 x 1.25) . I assume from way you describe nuts going on 2 or 3 turns your purchased wheel nut are likely 1.5 thread pitch

Be very much easier buying correct thread pitch nuts over replacing studs unless studs damaged or length is an issue  .

Be very careful as nuts need correct taper for wheels and also need be high quality, studs also need be high quality and correct interference fit to hub bores, Lot of nuts and studs found on eBay and similar are complete junk, off spec and potentially dangerous .

5 hours ago, Paul 847 said:

Hi. Have you got an address to send keys to for repair please? Button stuck in the holder on the circuit board. Spare key works but with occasional sticking. 

eBay
here an example for 1 key sigma 30 type alarm >
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-Service-For-1-button-Remote-Key-Fob-Forester-Impreza-Legacy-Outback/192366029811?hash=item2cc9e8abf3:g:6lgAAOSwZB9aDW57

** Do check your keyfob matches service you buy **

If you on the sigma alarm be sure you have known working 4 digit pin code to manually control alarm via keypad .

** If you don't have a PIN you can easily reset PIN while have a working remote **

With a working remote or working PIN these alarms easy deal with at low cost, break all the keyfobs and have no working PIN and cost esculate as does hassle/stress .

Also realise it easy buy a used good keyfob and put circuit board into your keyfob housing and program it to alram module (as long as have a working PIN or 1 working keyfob) should yours be none repairable ..

Be proactive now for the easy fix/solutions and easy life .... too many people ignore alarm issues until it too late ...

Good job 👍

Those arms still be in service when you up for retirement ...
saved lot of money doing it yourself and using oem used alloy arms .
Subarus are actually pretty easy work on so don't be afraid attempt more repairs, just research well and be prepared with good information, parts and tools  ...
 

here's a service manual that will aid you a bit ...
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

basically lot of garages simply won't be doing enough power steering repairs have knowledge or equipment test it easily or in sensible time frame so part swap on educated guess tends be preferred method and I had do that a few times on systems that didn't attach to test gauges or test cost exceeds part swap cost .

most time it pump on subarus and as the pump known failure it not a great buy as a used part,
You can get overhaul kit for the pumps and that route I go if internal housing surfaces decent enough .
Recon pumps or low cost pattern part are bit of gamble too these days as everything about lowest cost manufacture to enable cheap retail baiting on products hardly fit for purpose .

If you supply the parts to mechanic then not really fully his fault but if he diagnosed as pump and supplied pump then he got put mess right .

One of the biggest issues we have in trade today is part quality, while I use a lot of used genuine parts in lot of cases power steering is area need extra care/checks ...

Hopefully garage will help the OP out and get issue resolved minimal fuss ! ....

Junk replacement pump probably.

Looks like it likely cavitating to me .
Generally they self bleed easily with few lock to lock turns

Pumps on these easy strip down,
Plenty used pumps or new/.recon .

what was exact issues that got it in garage for replacement pump ?

I would get this looked at asap before a bigger issue .
If garage supplied pump get them swap it out again .
Both pump and rack easy work on so don't wrrite it off yet .

Biggest issue is lot of mechanics useless at diagnosing/working with hydraulics and throw in used parts the end results can be more problems than initially had .

Good job .

give it bit of time and you should be able get refunded via eBay/PayPal if wait out the lengthy procedure .
You second purchase looks better buy ...
Going alloy arms is best way forward, quality parts which will last longer and better safety aspect over lower spec pattern parts .