Mr B

I would phone (company number in listing) and confirm parts via your reg number, also assume if you use 'add to cart' on ebay for both those bushes you will only pay one postal fee ...

FRONT-RIGHT-WISHBONE-ARM-REAR-BUSH http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0i-TURBO-1999-2007-FRONT-RIGHT-WISHBONE-ARM-REAR-BUSH-x1-/200824608138?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2003|Model%3AForester&hash=item2ec214558a#shpCntId FRONT-LEFT-WISHBONE-ARM-REAR-BUSH http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0i-TURBO-1999-2007-FRONT-LEFT-WISHBONE-ARM-REAR-BUSH-x1-/200903868974?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2003|Model%3AForester&hash=item2ec6cdc22e We get these from our local motor factors, maybe from FirstLine brand but sure had SolidAce boxed ones before.

Should come off quite easily just be sure handbrake fully off. Rear brakes can wear fast due to Electronic Brake Force Distribution system but I would also expect the skirt was using the brake a lot, some manual drivers find autos a bit out of control so use left foot braking a bit too much, have seen some incredible amount of brake damage due to this.

You probably best sticking with OEM type sourced from ADL Blueprint or SolidAce parts. Poly-bushes are good for performances factors of reducing flex thus keeping geometry precise & giving driver more feedback. Small downside can be extra vibrations being transferred to the cabin. If you have a source for cheap poly-bushes & prefer to fit them then do so. If not a sporty driver & prefer cost of standard bushes then go with them as unless changing most to poly-bushes you will have little to gain ...

T rated does open up a few more winter options & perhaps some other good all seasons like the Hankook Optimo 4S. You should be able find something for your requirements and around the £75 price range which keeps the cost for a full set reasonable. Changing tyre size is classed as a modification, dropping one step in speed rating is normally not a big deal but I would get a written letter or email to state you informed them of the fact as a belts & braces precaution.

Local motor factors for likes of filters, water pump & timing belt kit from likes of ADL Blueprint. Oils, leads, plugs can be found online probably cheaper & with wider range of quality & performance rating as required. Just buy wisely, especially Timing kits & water pumps as no point throwing original quality pump in bin & bolting on a cheap European monkey metal pattern part. A lot of large motor factors list on eBay so can be good if not getting trade prices locally or if local motor factors not too helpful.

You need check feed of oil through pipe to turbo & the oil pressure at the feed pipe outlet if no blockages or pipe/fitting damage found. Return loose ! leaking !? any irregularities need looking into as even a TD04 is pricey when on 4th unit. General engine oil pressure check would be good & fitting quality oil filter & recheck if readings low. Most common issue is clogged gauze on banjo fitting for oil feed so check that if applicable to your exact model.

For Forester you should get decent set of rubber for £315 & even a little under £300 is possible pending on your exact criteria & luck on any deals at time of purchase. Don't think that bad really in this day & age plus as the Fozzies are good on tyre wear so makes it less frequent billing :-)

I would do a rotate & keep going till near 2mm on rears & then get all 4 renewed. Should work well as will have new boots before weather gets bleak. I was in similar situation to you but ended with 2mm on lowest 2 & 4mm on best, my situation was made sweeter by the spare being a perished mess so best of old at 4-5mm replaced that so spare is now sensibly good. If replace whole set you should be able wear matched set down quite evenly with bit of effort on rotation & assuming tracking & suspension are in good order. I find Foresters & AWD Subarus in general very good on tyre wear & get long life from my tyres so i'm happy to sacrifice a bit of tread on a tyre or 2 to keep the whole set brand/model & wear matched, your reward is better fuel economy, better tyre performance & vehicle handling plus less risk of odd hassles caused by mixed tyres. Your subaru manual will have a guide on tyre rotation & permitted wear variation so worth reviewing before making up your mind.

Worth checking with insurance company to see they ok on it, T is 118mph & one rating lower than OE H 130mph rating. Did see them when wanted some for mine but as local tyre shop had the Toyos on shelf from failed deal I decided try them as our run around pug HDI been good on the Toyos plus price was favourable. That Hankook is quite a nice tyre but no idea why they didn't do an H rating ! Really not keen on mixed tyres on 4wd such as Subarus, prefer set fitted as 4, better safety & better for transmission too. If you have 2 tyres very good it maybe worth rotating & using a little longer & also reviewing spare status as if that an old wrinkly, one of the better tyres will go as a spare.

Think they do the size but speed rating T

With that sort of annual mileage you need better than Nankang, Have a look at Hankook Optimo 4S as another you may want review !

Confusing indeed. What sort of driving are you doing & what sort of annual mileage. I'm not the biggest Falken fan myself but they are not too bad & expect you could get LA/AT around £70 fitted. Nankang 607 can be had £50 a tyre unfitted so with a cheap tyre fitter they are a cheap way reboot the Forester. Yokahama Geolanders are good for the price if need a more A/T tyre. I have a set of Toyo open country all season M+S on one of my foresters mainly as set of 4 fitted was £284 & Toyos on our 205 diesel pug been great in all use & wear. Toyo OC's been fine to date (wet winter, muddy back roads, towing, bit of motorway) though ratings worse than Nankang it is a tyre I could recommend without loosing sleep especially if get price same or better than mine. Hard call really, Nankang is a bit of a Marmite type affair & will be all love or all hate but wear is not going be the best so if doing high mileage spending on a better range tyre could be best. I too am surprised at the good ratings on the Nankang !

Exact models please, diesel/petrol etc, also what usage ? towing as example ! Have seen very little clutch issues in general, dual mass flywheels can be a problem. driving style can be a problem. When inspected what is failing in clutch assembly & what symptoms do you get !?

that particular model Nankang is not too bad for budget price & you can buy worse. Probably wouldn't buy them myself but have driven the odd forester with them without issue & owners seemed happy enough. For prices you have quoted above I would be inclined to go with the Falkens if price has some play in the decision, if not then the Michelins could be a good deal pending on exact model you getting at £85. Would imagine Michelins would last very well on a Forester & good set of branded boots keeps resale value bit higher too.

TD04 turbos are fussy on on oil supply & even minor reduction can cause bearing failure. Check oil pressure with manual gauge just to rule it out & thoroughly check oil feed & drain on turbo, check banjo bolt on oil feed for mesh filter & if has one clean or remove it, clean & test flow of all pipes. If unusual debris is found do further inspection. I would do thorough engine flush & good oil/filter as final step once main cause found (probably blocked gauze filter in banjo bolt if yours has one)

rear control arm bushes are easily removed without much hassle & either come with complete alloy bracket or need pressing into old one once off vehicle. Doing both drop links would be good idea and not expensive but I would leave lower ball joint & front control arm bush if they are in good order. Link below should help for tech details: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/2004%20Service%20Manual%20EU.pdf

If you bought kit with new pulleys & tensioner then use them. I always do the job with complete kit as reduces risk of failure of these components shortly after new belt fitted & causing belt jump or break ...

I would say yes. We only do pumps on 90,000+ plus. Not unusual for Jap original water pumps to last 130,000+ miles . Pump is not a dealer listed service item hence why not done but for cost of part & when mileage high it worth doing along with belt for extra belt safety/peace of mind & saving labour cost if pump decides leak shortly after belt service.

Tip for those who don't do this regularly, rotate engine to line up timing marks with old belt, check timing correct & familiarise yourself with what is hopefully the correct timing positions, now use a marker pen & mark one tooth on pulley to the 2 belt teeth that lay either side of that pulley tooth. Do this for all pulleys requiring timing & mark crank with a C so you got a reference point. Transfer these mark to new belt by counting teeth between markings & also count teeth total to check belts same. Once done this makes putting belt on easy & if slips a bit on one pulley easy to fiddle till right then recheck against proper alignment marks. Do be aware if you do a full revolution clockwise you pen marks won't line up again so be 100% happy with your belt position & you can turn engine anticlockwise a fraction then clockwise to align your marks to be sure then rotate fully clockwise to settle & recheck tension & timing with standard markings. Other tip is spend some time looking at standard timing alignment marks prior to pulling it off as that will be of benefit in helping you be sure you right at end of job. Could help the OP too, as by marking what pulleys are right & one that out you should find it easier to correct without loosing timing on correct ones, small bull clips can be handy too for holding belt to pulley if you ain't go a spare hand. Impossible to be half a tooth out in sense of belt to pulleys but actual marking tolerance, some degree of movement of crank pulley on keyway, looking at marking at silly angles, belt slack present as not rotated & tensioned correctly, faulty/poor spec parts can cause some issues here too so check old to new & double check everything as removed & replaced to eliminate error & doubts. Also use a decent belt kit such as the ADL as there is a good reason why most decent subaru independents use it ...

coil per plug/cylinder has lots of advantages, reduced radio frequency interference,smaller lighter coils, use less energy, coils have longer recharge time between cylinder firings. Loss of distributor & advancement of engine electronics has improved fuel economy, reliability & engine life span drastically. I don't miss messing with points & condenser :-) do think manufacturers need keep an eye on how advanced they go these days & on replacement parts costs as some of these component/sensor prices are ridiculous ...

Yeh the coil on plug type are a bit fiddly, this was single coil pack & much easier. Basic servicing is not really that expensive excluding you high end performance boys, HT leads I used here may seem cheap but quality is as good as £40ish leads so spending more is not always needed.

Standard lines are good enough if in good order, braided lines are normally for custom setups & speedy dissembling. Least got to the bottom of it & having a mitsi turbo certainly was cheaper than if was a IHI :-S Hope all sorted, third time lucky ...

:-) Yes nice when quick to diagnose & basic parts which cheap, this is only second time I had a fault on my own Subaru vehicles mainly as if you buy decent ones & do decent basic servicing they are close to faultless.

Had my latest purchased 03-SG Forester in the workshop, on permanent loan to my sister :-/ . she had lack of power, uneven running & intermittent CEL with some CEL flashing. Was still drivable so dropped it in straight away, Was hoping for the best but expecting perhaps ignition pack or worse. Fortunately nothing more than an original HT lead had gone bad, A set of PROSPARK OES1229 Ignition HT Leads (£19, good fit, ok quality for standard vehicle servicing) & some new NGK BKR6E-11 ( £7 a set, Find NGK copper core fine and have hardly any faults/failures compared to some expensive spec plugs) plugs just for good measure. Running perfect once again & hopefully won't see it till MOT time in December, lol ...