Mr B

Don't really want use grease on seals of the piston. should be lubricated for assembly with quality brake fluid & small amount of brake lube around seal & dust boot area to help prevent corrosion . Slides can be greased but needs rubber safe veg oil/synthetic based lube ( normally red in colour, some specialist brake lubes are green). Standard petroleum, lithium based greases damage the rubber, copper slip is also a bad one to use on slide pins.

didn't pay import on my forester bumper cover from US but is a bit hit & miss pending on shipping they use & package declaration. £122 seems a lot but OEM quality & fit is hard to beat & being a rare vehicle not many if any decent alternatives. Only real problem with Subaru is dealer pricing on everything, no idea why they can't quote realistic labour prices :-/ Worth doing guards though & something I love to see on a used car if I'm buying it as really makes huge difference to lower & under body condition.

OEM guards fit easily, certainly diy job. £80 is theft, half that would be realistic. You may need take wheel off for better access but besides that no major hassle & OEM flaps come with fittings & little fitting guide. Example of fitting guide below but for forester > http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/69732/pdf/069732-J1010SG250MC14ForesterSplashGuardFrontandRear.pdf You going for black guards ? do come in body colours but easily scuffed & then looks awful. Black is more durable long term & still fits in well as lower bumper & sills are finished in black. How much are the guards for full set !

Really want carefully measure up hub assembly & suspension etc from bad side to one seems good. Obviously with MOT you expect common faults to be seen but best it given a good looking right from the basics at as only takes 30 minutes. Good alignment needs a good operator & I think you got unlucky this time :-/ Hopefully better luck next attempt. I have had hubs on vehicles with bent arms by about 8mm & hard to spot till really pay attention, same goes for lower wishbones.

Have a read of my post #13 again. really need check all suspension parts & mounting points to body on front thoroughly as something could be bent from curbing & not easily spotted. I would suspect hub track arm bent but few other options ... laser alignment is only as good as people using it & a good percentage of them make settings worse rather than better so choose your shop wisely. With noise & rapid tyre wear your fault is quite major so decent shop would of found something wrong during alignment checks & visual checks. Seen loads of Subarus with camber all over the shot as many garages not use to the concentric camber bolts on the struts & don't mark a base position when dissembling & don't check it after assembly.

Keep looking & perhaps try messaging some of the breakers on ebay, UK or Europe shipping to spain would be acceptable. sourcing good used parts even when in the UK is never that easy unless you lucky enough find required model at a local breakers. Start a thread in parts wanted section as if any members have the parts or easy access to them it would be easy item to post to spain. Money you saving on fuel is a big bonus, Forester is a superb usable wagon, just not many people know about them but in some ways that a good thing :-)

eBay will probably be your best bet, should have breakers in the uk who will ship to spain, east europe has a few foresters so parts from them may turn up. Is a few specialist subaru breakers but prices are a premium so best exhausting other options first, Good useful wagon you got, SF models are built well & stand up to quite some abuse.

Serpi Star Gemel. come across them. Quite basic alarm so should be easy to remove. Have a google for wiring diagram, even review slightly different models as sometimes the wiring for likes of immobiliser circuit will run off same pins of alarm plug so easy figure out. Removed a Serpi Star some years ago on a Mazda 323 Rally Lux, was reasonably easy even without wiring sheet as they wanted 100% removal all wiring was traced to joins & fully dissected. Bit time consuming but you could probably handle this yourself.

C-Clamps that go around exhaust pipe (these c-clamps hold heat shields on) are padded inside with mesh, with age this becomes a little loose thus rattles. Other issues are things like it getting knocked or a sloppy mechanic damaging it or leaving bolts missing when mucking round with jobs like a Lambada sensor replacement.

Mud guards are pricey, later version outback moulded ones can be found for around £30 full front/rear set. UK Subaru price is £130 ish :-O You may find some universal that fit well with some good twiddling/fitting. Thing is good mud guard save hundreds in terms of vehicle lower body condition, also be a lot less chipped front ends & windscreens if we all had them ...

Quite common on the older subarus & to be honest generally an easy fix with little of effort, quality of the materials is very good & repadding the c-clamps can last for years if done well.

They help reduced heat radiation to other components & als help speed up cat function. If real bad they could be removed & heat wrap ribbon installed as needed. Link to thread below on subject as they easily resolved by packing out the shield mounts with stainless wire or heat wrap ribbon strips & perhaps spot of welding if stubborn http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/4048-rattling-heat-shield/

Breakfast break is over ! get claying & cleaning lol . Certainly hell of a lot of car for the money. Quite an exclusive club too ... i'm not a member :-/

Good link for OEM extra parks that but prices are scary. Even the older model extras are crazy money. I got a bumper cargo step guard for my SG form USA in end as new OEM over here are £79 (best deal was £62) OEM from USA was £48 delivered to my door in under 2 weeks, no duty as all done on ebay shipping scheme with duty pre-calculated or cunningly avoided. Plus UK to US exchange very decent at present :-) Personally I think the mud guards should be factory standard & MOT requirement to have some form of guards due to amount of loose gravel b-roads that are the uk norm in these days of low-cost highway repair. Rear Cargo guard on bumpers like the Outback, Forester etc are a must really & surprised subaru didn't have these standard on higher trim versions :-/

I see some mud guards & rear bumper guard on eBay. Mud guards are a must really as keeps lower cars body condition in far better order so pay for themselves over time. I like bumper guard too but OEM not cheap, have seen stainless steel ones from Gemany & Poland but even they are around £60+ Links below to what I spotted on ebay, unfortunately not a huge choice on outback items for your model era ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-2009-Subaru-Outback-Wagon-Splash-Guard-Mud-Flap-Black-Plastic-OEM-NEW-/201123564298?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed3e60b0a#vi-ilComp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-Mk3-Rear-Mud-flap-Splash-Boards-Guard-Mudflaps-/121259639071?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3ba3411f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Bumper-Protector-Cargo-Step-Panel-Legacy-Outback-04-09-/351098596590?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOutback&hash=item51bf1b6cee

Lol, worse than a kid on christmas eve ... Hope all goes good - to plan ...

Mmm nobody going to be sleeping in your house tonight ...

IHI are superb turbos.

Rant all day probably :-D I do think most Subaru owners have many similar interests/views & that is why Subaru clubs tend to be quite conciliatory ... Anyway i'll hand thread back to the soon to be Mr six pistons ...

Don't wind me up on environmental cars pollution statistics as it is complete garbage. Manufacturing over complex vehicles with short life span (junk) is not good for the environment & the amount of diesel used shipping the scrap to eastern block or china for recycling is an absurd way to reduce carbon emissions :-O I have an old 1988 nissan sunny hatchback kicking about that runs around happily set lean as i'm so green (stingy) emissions are pretty damn good, it uses recycled engine oil & reclaimed tyres & is incredibly reliable & wants for almost nothing at 26years of running, now that truly has low carbon footprint if do the figures for life of car. Only keep it going out of respect for its general reliability & it drives great overall so haven't got heart scrap it.

Wouldn't want pay over the K bracket range myself. More reason go classic, as example FS fozzy can be £225 which is nice bonus.

£285 now. Not an issue as Foz SG same & most of us use to that rate, L bracket is another story though & absurd annual outlay :-O

nice cars, very good if do some long journeys & like some grunt as well as luxury ... Sensible mileage too which is a bonus on these. Just get use to bigger bill in the filling stations, especially to start with :-D What road tax this one ? K or L . When you picking it up ...

They all do, with good choice of tyres the Forester is quite at home in the snow. For what they are they corner real good, very popular for smash & grab due to being tough & good at the getaway.

Your purchased remote will have to be suitable for the vehicle remote locking system. Your key will be chipped. It is easy enough to get a key made up & chipped for about £30, for sure will be few locksmiths local to you so get some quotes. If you really want remote locking fob then hopefully one you picked up will work, if not you will need hunt for a fob or key with inbuilt fob to build one from chipped key you get made by cross grafting it with used key with inbuilt fob you may find by doodling on eBay or a breakers. Some car locksmiths will build new key & chip into an original key with fob but some don't like putting in the effort. Most important thing is sort out key & chip ASAP as if you loose current key u are in the !Removed! & only a big bill will resolve it. Fob not so important so just see how that plays out with one you picked up & if don't work look for other used fobs if really need one. link below should help on programming hopefully. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05%20legacy%20program%20remotes