Mr B

Quite common on the older subarus & to be honest generally an easy fix with little of effort, quality of the materials is very good & repadding the c-clamps can last for years if done well.

They help reduced heat radiation to other components & als help speed up cat function. If real bad they could be removed & heat wrap ribbon installed as needed. Link to thread below on subject as they easily resolved by packing out the shield mounts with stainless wire or heat wrap ribbon strips & perhaps spot of welding if stubborn http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/4048-rattling-heat-shield/

Breakfast break is over ! get claying & cleaning lol . Certainly hell of a lot of car for the money. Quite an exclusive club too ... i'm not a member :-/

Good link for OEM extra parks that but prices are scary. Even the older model extras are crazy money. I got a bumper cargo step guard for my SG form USA in end as new OEM over here are £79 (best deal was £62) OEM from USA was £48 delivered to my door in under 2 weeks, no duty as all done on ebay shipping scheme with duty pre-calculated or cunningly avoided. Plus UK to US exchange very decent at present :-) Personally I think the mud guards should be factory standard & MOT requirement to have some form of guards due to amount of loose gravel b-roads that are the uk norm in these days of low-cost highway repair. Rear Cargo guard on bumpers like the Outback, Forester etc are a must really & surprised subaru didn't have these standard on higher trim versions :-/

I see some mud guards & rear bumper guard on eBay. Mud guards are a must really as keeps lower cars body condition in far better order so pay for themselves over time. I like bumper guard too but OEM not cheap, have seen stainless steel ones from Gemany & Poland but even they are around £60+ Links below to what I spotted on ebay, unfortunately not a huge choice on outback items for your model era ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-2009-Subaru-Outback-Wagon-Splash-Guard-Mud-Flap-Black-Plastic-OEM-NEW-/201123564298?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed3e60b0a#vi-ilComp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-Mk3-Rear-Mud-flap-Splash-Boards-Guard-Mudflaps-/121259639071?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3ba3411f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Bumper-Protector-Cargo-Step-Panel-Legacy-Outback-04-09-/351098596590?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOutback&hash=item51bf1b6cee

Lol, worse than a kid on christmas eve ... Hope all goes good - to plan ...

Mmm nobody going to be sleeping in your house tonight ...

IHI are superb turbos.

Rant all day probably :-D I do think most Subaru owners have many similar interests/views & that is why Subaru clubs tend to be quite conciliatory ... Anyway i'll hand thread back to the soon to be Mr six pistons ...

Don't wind me up on environmental cars pollution statistics as it is complete garbage. Manufacturing over complex vehicles with short life span (junk) is not good for the environment & the amount of diesel used shipping the scrap to eastern block or china for recycling is an absurd way to reduce carbon emissions :-O I have an old 1988 nissan sunny hatchback kicking about that runs around happily set lean as i'm so green (stingy) emissions are pretty damn good, it uses recycled engine oil & reclaimed tyres & is incredibly reliable & wants for almost nothing at 26years of running, now that truly has low carbon footprint if do the figures for life of car. Only keep it going out of respect for its general reliability & it drives great overall so haven't got heart scrap it.

Wouldn't want pay over the K bracket range myself. More reason go classic, as example FS fozzy can be £225 which is nice bonus.

£285 now. Not an issue as Foz SG same & most of us use to that rate, L bracket is another story though & absurd annual outlay :-O

nice cars, very good if do some long journeys & like some grunt as well as luxury ... Sensible mileage too which is a bonus on these. Just get use to bigger bill in the filling stations, especially to start with :-D What road tax this one ? K or L . When you picking it up ...

They all do, with good choice of tyres the Forester is quite at home in the snow. For what they are they corner real good, very popular for smash & grab due to being tough & good at the getaway.

Your purchased remote will have to be suitable for the vehicle remote locking system. Your key will be chipped. It is easy enough to get a key made up & chipped for about £30, for sure will be few locksmiths local to you so get some quotes. If you really want remote locking fob then hopefully one you picked up will work, if not you will need hunt for a fob or key with inbuilt fob to build one from chipped key you get made by cross grafting it with used key with inbuilt fob you may find by doodling on eBay or a breakers. Some car locksmiths will build new key & chip into an original key with fob but some don't like putting in the effort. Most important thing is sort out key & chip ASAP as if you loose current key u are in the !Removed! & only a big bill will resolve it. Fob not so important so just see how that plays out with one you picked up & if don't work look for other used fobs if really need one. link below should help on programming hopefully. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05%20legacy%20program%20remotes

ride is pretty good if all struts good order & decent tyres & correct pressures.. far better than the suzuki. The older SF forester version is quite a rugged machine & decent ones can be found for very fair prices but need view a few to find real gem . Later SG is bit more flimsy in terms of body & trim & a higher price.

Driveshafts rotate same wheel speed but being rear it unlikely as they have quite easy life compared to front but worth inspection. Prop is spinning faster but pro-rata to speed & could cause symptoms like you mention. Most usual faults are : wneel bearing rear diff gearbox viscous diff propshaft sounds like maybe more than wheel bearing but I have seen a few bad wheel bearings make notchy feeling & due to AWD it hard check well by jacking up. Wheel bearing is cheap & easy. other things could get pricey ...

Would be very easy wire off your current brake light ...

Here we have a genuine Forester SG load cover. Colour light grey. Condition is very good & is in full working order Download PDF for images & brief description. Item will be packaged well & shipped UK to UK only via courier. Payment can be made via Bank transfer or perhaps PayPal. If you in Devon, Exeter area then viewing/collection could be a possibility these cost over £280 from Subaru & good used ones don't come along often for the SG. Price is £85 including P&P ... Either PM me or reply to this topic if interested ... ... SOLD ...

Spraying FORGERY maybe more appropriate ! :-) You want be careful with these kits as if you test the charge temps on them & flow rate they are far from a decent investment/upgrade, plus the pipework routing is awful, short run design is done for a reason.

Not really, a huge amount of issues will fall outside of the T&C of the included warranty & trading standards. Garage seems to be responding ok besides the bonnet vent & even on that they approved painting & fitting. Bad side is how they missed a lot of these niggles when prepping car for sale. Another bad point is the sounds of a temporary block off of 1 rear brake, I could never let a customer have a car back like that as technically not roadworthy thus illegal & police/court & my professional trade insurers who hang me for it should anything happen. With all the other faults that have built up after vent falling off should of made them feel obliged go all in on bonnet vent too really as incredibly awful experience so far for the buyer. As I said before, I would advise a full check over of this vehicle as I would put money on it being an acident repair or hiding a few other niggles from bodgy work. Act fast & while you can.

No spring rates, 10kg/mm front 6kg/mm rear, awful on the road, actually almost dangerous due to reduced grip & risk of being bounced of track on usual ruts etc on b-roads. They wouldn't last 12 months before MOT failure but you probably crash before that. Far better off going WRX if you lower it. Also to check SLS status don't rely on canister or colour as later range of Tokico SLS are black & without canister, get the part number which is stamped on the strut & run it in Google or Subaru parts database.

spring rate on that coilover kit is ridiculous for uk roads.

I would be concerned why scoop missing bolts & wheel studs damaged. Could be possible accident damage. scoop coming off for repairs & being clipped back on then someone forgot the nuts ! brake pipe failing is also !Removed! rare issue & Subaru standard pipes are super quality so possibly someone been here too & not handling the job too professionally . Garage does seem be tackling most your jobs though so you not doing too bad but you really need get that car checked fully before warranty & dealer looses interest in you as I suspect it may have some hidden history.

In my opinion a good serviced Japanese plant built Subaru is bang for buck the most reliable car you can buy. they make even likes of VW, Merc & BMW look shabby based on a comparison 175000mile model from each manufacturer. My family members on Subarus have super cheap service/maintenance costs & none in 20years have had a breakdown. Next door neighbours of my Father are amazed at his all year round hassle free motoring in his tatty Legacy while there family 207 & company VW get an AA visit at least annually plus plenty of trips to local garages for niggly faults :-) The downside is the newer models are not going live up to the above & unfortunately the diesel engine is a bit of a lemon :-( hurts me to say that as I really was looking forward to a boxer diesel :'(