mart360

Hi Mick, To find your MAF... From comparing your picture & the manual 2.0 - is at the back of the engine slap bang in the middle, it bolts directly onto the 4 branch air intake The electrical connector on the front is for the air intake temp sensor... i will see if i can locate your maf for this model shortly Not sure of the engine temp sensor, but yes it is the one which feeds the dash display , let me grab my worksop manuals and have a gander mart

Just check its compatible / fits with your model before you commit to purchase! The link specifys an engine, however its down to you to satisfy yourself its compatible with your current car Hope it works out ok Mart

Hi welcome to the forum ... Good news you bought an outback ... Bad news, you need to get those probs fixed before MOT time, as both are failures .. the boots are an easy fix, but you should get the source of the CEL sorted asap... Mart

Hi welcome to the forum ... Good news you bought an outback ... Bad news, you need to get those probs fixed before MOT time, as both are failures .. the boots are an easy fix, but you should get the source of the CEL sorted asap... Mart

Id have paid for an hour's labour, and asked them to check the valve clearances Then you'd have had a conclusive answer. 1.5K for a replacement ... going to be tough Have you considerd a replcement engine option ..; may be a cheaper method Just done some digging, there are a couple of sub 1.5K cars on the bay at the moment, and a few sub 2k but i spotted this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-LEGACY-H6-COMPLETE-3-0-EZ30-ENGINE-CAN-BE-HEARD-RUNNING-95K-/261733327685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cf085a345 at 350 it may be your answer. book time for a swap is 4.5hrs if you can do it mates rates Mart

Sounds like a worn bush or link Get the car jacked up on the offending side and get a pry bar in to flex all the joints / links Mart

Stop being a pessimist & wait for the results of the check on monday. How much did you pay for the car? Mart

Doing some digging has come up with Engine temp sensor or MAF does the car get up to temp normally, or is it running cold? a failed or failing sensor will tell the car its cold (when its actually hot), and keep sending more fuel into the sytem to get the car up to temp Alternativly the MAF can do that too, Have you got a friend with the same car, you can do a swap of parts, and see if it makes a difference I would check connections to the engine temp sensor and maf to make sure they good, no broken wires etc. alos check your fues boxes for duff fuses Mart

BTW this is done at your own risk, i'm only providing links to other sites ... Have a look at this.. If you dont feel capable or happy doing it yourself, have it carried out by someone compitent http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes see if you can get your blink codes .. Or if you have an OBDII reader plug that in and see what it returns Mart .

Ok if ive worked it out correctly it comes back as about 2mpg thats not good, your running very rich, what colour is the exhaust smoke? When was the last time you changed your plugs? will the car pull above 3K, it sounds as if the car is over fuelling to keep things happy . you need to get it sorted soon or you could damage the cats I'll do some more digging around One other is it a turbo or NA model mart

Hi Mick, not at the moment, i need to do some maths litres are spawn of satan, so it dosent equate to anything at the mo . once i can work out mpg, I can get a better understanding Mart .

Looking at the shim table, the range is from 2.0mm to 2,87 in 0.1mm increments you need to get the clearances checked first before you assume the worst.. Mart

Hi, first things first ... when was it last serviced ? Air filter, pollen filter fuel filter oil etc? Have you checked the ecu for any fault codes? ( can you do a blink code check) - what codes are returned? Mart

Dont be hasty, looking at MY- 2003 manual, it shows the clearances done in situ & reshimming from what i can see, you go in from underneath Looking at the 2003 SVX, which is the closest i can get to the H6, valve clearances check and adjust is 1.10 hours Mart

All done :) we ran a die down the shaft to clear the thread, and the huib is bolted up .. took it out for a test drive .... no rumble ... but hello annoying squeek ( some thing in the cabin is squeeking as the car moves around lol) will clear the car outtoday and see if i can spot what it is and lube it up lol Running the old hub in my hands you can feel its notchy... .. now the question is .. do i buy a bearing kit and refurb this one so i have a spare if the other one fails? .. or just buy a whole new assy ... bearing (lol) in mind the refurb cost is almost as much as a new hub ?? Mart

Exhaust is the biggy in terms of replacement I'd sit down if you want an OEM cat back set up - £1000+ for 3 boxes and some piping its £400+ just for the centrebox & Y pipe A replacement SS catback system will set you back around about £600 - £700 Although i have a feeling that some of the 2.5 stuff advertised on the bay, may fit with some judicious fettling ;) Fuel economy is average - 19 mpg round town rising to 26/27mpg on a long run ..look at anywhere between 240 to 260 miles from a tank on an average daily driver point of view. Best i had was 330 from a tank, and i recon i could have got closer to 400, but then did a load of round town driving, which scuppered that Mart

Update - Got the hub to day and we set about fitting it .... Hit big problems when trying to remove the driveshaft from the original hub... it was stuck fast .. attempts to tap it back proved futile, even with the hub nut wound back on to protect the threads. we had to virtually disasemble the whole unit to get things moving and had to resort to a puller in the end ... Looks like the bearing was running very hot, with lots of meted grease residue around the splines ... fitted the new hub, but the drive shaft was diffiicult to reinsert despite wire brushing the splines & re lubing all back together now, but just waiting for a new hub nut, as there wasnt one in the hub kit? We may have had some collateral damage on the driveshaft thread, so worst case it may need a new driveshaft, which isnt good news We'll know more when the hub nut arrives mart

Just an update ... will be chaging the hub tuesday, will keep you posted Mart

Indeed, I paid £3,200 for my 53 plate with 100K on the clock methinks it will go higher Mart

Did a longer run today and took temps both ways 50-60C LH 40-50C RH just got work out which is the cheaper option - replace the whole hub, or just the bearing... or i could just replace the hub, and keep the old one and replace the bearing myself Mart

Did a test as indicated ... The noise goes when the car is turned L/R when driving... it goes away on turning to the LH but stays on turning to the RH I tried the thermo after a 7 mile run ... 60C RH 97C LH, but im not sure where i should be aiming the laser / taking the reading.. will try again tommorow over a longer run .. Anyone know the book time for changing one ... ? cant find my autodata cd I know its £130 off for the bearing / hub assy Mart

Ill give your suggestions a try, Its not a new thing, been doing it since i had the car (12 months), i did a drive to didcot & back a few weeks ago, car is failtless, if it was a WB, shouldt it get worse... It passed it MOT last year and it was making the noise then, no advisorys etc I had the pano roof open today and no obvious noises are coimg from the outside.. Mart

3.0 R with a strange noise. At speeds below 30 mph, the car is silent, once i hit 40+ there is noise in the cabin, akin to tyre drone, outside the car, silence .. it carrys on to 60mph, and then diminishes, by 70 and above its gone, if im in the noise zone, and turn the steering wheel into a bend the noise dissapears, but returns when the wheels come back to straight ahead. ive tried the figure of 8 maneuvers in car parks with no apparant binding, but occasionaly i detect a slight clonk when on full lock (CV joint) but only on hard full lock Front tyres are geolanders with good tread, rears are a mix with good tread. i looked for the fuse to put the car into 2wd, but couldnt spot it to try that out Mart

That's not bad, My 3.0 is coming in at £166 with a provisional quote from saga lol Mart

Well 9 months after picking up the Outback, MOT time today ... My concerns were 1) Exhaust, that much loved Y piece has a tiny puff on start up, (In honesty, it looks like a water drain hole). 2) Seat belt, Drivers belt dosent return as well as it should - A quick strip and clean of all the gunk and fluff from the guides and mech, and it was retracting ( might need a second visit at some time ) 3) Screen washers, the output has become steadily worse over the last few weeks, so today i had a quick investigate... BTW 2003 MkIV the bottle is behind the front bumper, and a pig to get to lol Anyway i had the idea of swapping the power leads, and the hoses so i could take the feed from the rear wash to the front. (with more time and access, i think this may have worked) but sadly attempt one failed ... Plan B, work from the jets back to the pump looking for a blockage, as the motor sounded healthy. Break at the first union, and it shot fluid everywhere .... working forward at every union found the culprit. - A one way valve near the jets... 6 Inches of new hose later and normal fan spray was resumed .... (btw - how do you adjust these? couldn't get them to move, or adjust the fan ) So fingers crossed i dropped it off... One hour later .......New MOT :) happy person... One advisory ...... Rear brake pads wearing low ...... Guess what i'm doing over christmas :) Mart