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About Oatmeal123
- Birthday 03/29/1995
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location:
Wrexham, Wales GB
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Interests
Computing, Gaming, Music.
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Subaru Model
Legacy 3.0R 06
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Hello all, I have an 06 Subaru Legacy 3.0R Spec B called Astrid. 😍 but she has a concerning issue, the handbrake will at random times just disable itself. There could be between a day or weeks between this occurring. It's happened maybe 6 or 7 times now. Usually it disables itself about 2minutes or so after it has been applied. Thankfully 🤞, everytime it has happened it's happened on flat ground or only a moderate slope where I could save her causing me large expense. She's a tad clumsy. 🤦♀️ The first time it happened I damn near sh*t myself, I was completely alone in my car, legs spread out on my phone when suddenly the hand brake lever smacks me in the knee with a loud *thunk* Can someone help me dispossess my car please? 😐 With this being my fourth Subaru, I just kind of think of it's quirks and minor nuisances as character, but I think this one will need resolving...
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Hello All, I am trying to flog my Hawkeye 06 Impreza Sports Wagon 1.5R Currently experiencing constant CEL's with it. Everything is ok around town, but 5miles on the motorway and BAM: P0420 I ignored it whilst I was using it as my daily and checked again a month later, CEL has added code P2000 to the list. A while back the front O2 died, probably put 2000miles hard miles on the thing on holiday, just hope this hasn't killed it. Car drives fine now that the front O2 has been replaced but I'm trying to sell the car and no one's interested in a car with CEL on. Gonna clean the EGR valve, pray that works. Has anyone got any other suggestions? If it's the front cat, that means replacing the whole manifold -_-
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Knocking noise when releasing clutch to move off
Oatmeal123 replied to Oatmeal123's topic in Subaru Servicing / MOT / Dealers
I guess if anyone ever finds this, here was the solution. The engine mount behind the engine connected to the firewall was a tad loose. The bolt that squeezes it together wasn't tightened properly.- 2 replies
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- acceleration
- clutch
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Hello all, I purchased myself a 2006 Subaru Forester XT. It is absolutely beautiful. 111,000 miles on it (for £3200, I'm happy). 😁 Today whilst I was driving it back from town, I pulled off the roundabout, chucked it in 2nd and put my foot to the floor. It hit 3000revs and then I felt the turbo kick in hard, then it sort of briefly stopped giving me power, for like <0.5 a second. This was immediately followed by a sudden lunch of all the power at once and it quickly got up to redline and that was that. 😨 The trade seller had told me the throttle body was recently replaced and I am wondering whether this could be at fault? This is my first turbo car, so unsure where to begin diagnosing. The only last tidbit of info I can give is that if you rev it hard, there is a smell of petrol that gets into the cabin. Does anyone have some suggestions? 😟 thank you :)
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- hesitation
- lunge
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Hello again everyone, I was wondering if you could assist me in figuring out the source of a knocking noise and what could possibly be causing it. I have a 2006 impreza 1.5 R, when I am releasing the clutch to move off from a stand still a knocking noise appears, as though the engine is tapping something in the bay. I haven't been able to pinpoint the problem and recreate it everytime without fail. But if I am pulling off from a stand still then the noise could happen once quite loudly or 2 or 3 times consecutively but rather quiet. I usually move off at around 1,500 - 2,500 rpm (tis a baby 1.5 ) Dropping the clutch or doing my best to make the car jerk back and forth does not seem to produce the noise so I'm a tad confused to the analogy of a loose engine. As odd an explanation as this is, would anyone have any insight as to a common problem associated with such a noise? thank you
- 2 replies
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- acceleration
- clutch
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Long time no speak, So I got the train to peterbourough and picked up the new scooby. It's terrific, everything runs great on it and it is fun to drive, as a first car goes anyways . I do have a question as to the normality of the idle; from a cold start it'll jump to about 1,700rpm then slow to about 600rpm after 5mins. Whilst it's sitting at roughly 600rpm the car will shake a little bit, I can hear a slight rattling noise that comes on and off . it's quite noticeable when just sitting in traffic or parked up ready to pull away. Is this something of concern? The car will also go completely silent on occasion then I feel a rumble as the car almost stalls itself whilst idle. I did recently wire up an inverter to the boot straight from the battery but the only electrical system on when it happens is purely the stereo and nothing else.
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So the seller told me he had his mechanic perform the 'sniff test', something called a block tester kit for about 5-10minutes. Nothing indicates a blown head gasket he is saying. The seller is saying whether I take the car back or get a refund he still wants £200 back for delivering the car -_- . I asked him to perform a compression test but he isn't willing to perform such a test at a cost to himself and I'm not willing to front the cost of a compression test just to have him pay me an extra £200 for proving the car is buggered. I've just told him I'll have a refund, honestly can't be bothered with this cr*p right now. In the mean time, I'm planning a trip to peterborough to pick up this beauty
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The issue is he doesn't seem shady at all. His reviews are pretty damn good. People usually review trade sellers when they've been f***ed over. I can't find anything negative about him or his company: middlebrook cars ltd in Bolton. I'm inclined to trust the bloke, but I do want evidence of his testing. Currently looking into him doing a 'block tester' on it. and perhaps some sort of guarantee that I won't have to pay to fix such an engine problem if it is as such. I'll wait to see what he comes back with.
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The tables have turned. The seller is saying that his mechanic does not believe the car does have a blown gasket. Neither does Mick, the seller. He mentioned that the car is not overheating. He has his mechanic looking into alternative ways of proving what is actually wrong with it. What do I do? 0___0 I haven't bought a replacement yet but still, do I accept the car? Or take a hit in my refund if he can prove it works after repair?
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Unable to find a suitable 2006/2007 Impreza R so I've had to settle for a Citroen as a first car, simply because of insurance. But I will be back... someday Thanks again everyone!
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It really does suck. I can't really stop thinking I'll just get it fixed but then it dawns on me that it's not worth it. I'll start making arrangements now to get a refund on it. I have the fun task of convincing the seller to come pick it up. Thankfully I have found alternative 1.5 R's but they're over 150 miles away and convincing my family to drive that distance is somewhat tricky. Maybe I can bribe them with the use of the car The 2.0 does seem appealing for that reason but even with a couple years NCD; insurance is still beyond a joke expensive for someone my age. It'll cost me a heck of a lot more in the long term. I'll probably wait till I'm over 25. Thanks for everyone's input
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Personally I wouldn't trust the seller to fix it themselves either but that's just general rule of thumb. Currently I've 2 potential plans: -Plan 1: Get a refund on the car of the full price paid minus the scrap value (so about £1,500) then get the mechanic I know to fix it for around £800 (a rough estimate) then any further charges for varying things that will need sorting whilst in that condition can be replaced once disassembled. He said it would be £400 labour. £800 total was a rough estimate to have both sides replaced but I imagine it'll be to the tune of £1,000. I'd have to front any additional costs over £1,500. -Plan 2: Get a full refund and let him deal with it as he will. Then front another £1,000+ for a 2.0L 2006-2007 and deal with any additional insurance costs (another £600). The seller has said he would rather it fixed here so it doesn't need towing/moving back 45 miles to his place to be repaired. But he doesn't mind refunding it, it's entirely up to myself. The mechanic I've dealt with said he will only do the job if I pay for it because he's dealt with trade sellers before and he has to chase them for payment. I told the seller and he said he's more than happy to front me the whole cost to have it repaired. So it's likely he'll agree to Plan 1 to have this bother out of the way. I'll get an exact quote from the mechanic in a day or 2's time. If the price is right and there is room in the budget (price paid - scrap value) then I don't see why I couldn't have the mechanic fix anything else that crops up. The alternative to repairing it is still gonna cost alot of money. But if people feel adamant that I just do away with it I may just suck it up and go for a 2.0L. I've been eyeing up this beauty: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201707057078220?sort=price-asc&radius=1500&maximum-badge-engine-size=2.0&model=IMPREZA&price-to=3000&postcode=ll127na&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&advertising-location=at_cars&make=SUBARU&page=5 Unless anyone knows someone selling a impreza 1.5 R 5dr?
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Yeah, service history is top notch. Everything serviced when expected per the handbook. Everything else on the car looks fine tbh. Only advisories n such has been that of broken number plate lights or other such simple things.
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Ok, that clears up a lot of confusion about it, I thought it might be dried coolant or something. There's about 93,000 miles on it. I wouldn't consider that absolutely ridiculous just yet though. I've seen people selling these with over 170,000 on them. But heck, I haven't really been schooled in subaru reliability just yet.
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Oatmeal123 changed their profile photo
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Hello everyone, I found a scooby with a 1.5, I've been wanting one for quite some time now but as I'm a new driver insurance is gonna be top dollar, hence the 1.5. Now the 2007 model looks absolutely fantastic imo, this is the only one I've been able to find in the UK with a 1.5, in a lovely grey. Checked over the car as well as I could before purchase, assuming the limited white smoke coming out the back was the result of the usual cold day. The engine was covered in a green residue but nothing was leaking anywhere and everything looked like it had been working for some time. So on the way back I notice a hissing sound, sounds like a broken vacuum line. There was some relatively minor overheating, just shy of 2/3rds on the gauge. Didn't really think anything of it other than perhaps it just needed some additional liquids. So I sat in the drive and just wanted to see if it overheated whilst idle. The white smoke just didn't disappear even after the engine had warmed up and a good half hour had passed. No overheating but the smoke persisted. Took it to my parents usual garage and they checked it over and said the head gasket has likely blown. So the trade seller I bought it from gave me a 30 day guarantee on the car. I paid £1,600 for the car. I've heard that blown head gaskets are common for this generation of impreza. I want to believe that repairing the HG will remedy the situation but I'm wary that it may not be the sole reason for the HG blowing. I'm under the impression that if it's just the one HG on one side then the remainder of the engine is likely fine so it would only involve the HG replacements to fix. Then it would work fine from then on. So my question is; should I have the car repaired at the sellers expense or should I just give up on it, move on, get a refund on the car and allow him to scrap it? I don't want to lose it so quickly