Dr. Acula

205/70/15 - sw 143.5

215/65/17- side wall 139.75 (closest to ur original specs)

215/50/17-sw107.5

First, what Tidgy said, second, you'll lower car stands with 72 mm ((143.5 -107.5) x 2) with larger gaps between wheels and car body and reduce ur car ability to absorb road bumps/ cracks/ potholes. 

With this being said, I see no other major problems. 

Still have a set (all 4 corners 2007 Forester JDM) original suspension with 30k miles on them.

If interested you can have it and pay what you think worth.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dag-Q_lP0dOk&ved=2ahUKEwiamM-NyY-MAxXfQkEAHRtxJJEQ9KsOegQIDBAB&sqi=2&usg=AOvVaw2ozEBYvIBDU44l4_f-UR4n

Watch the above video. It really works. 

If new front calipers, new brake fluid and all corners air bleed(in my opinion). If front calipers so corroded rear calipers need a detailed service ...at least. 

New brake pads would change braking dynamics. New brake rotors would change braking dynamics. New pads and/or rotors does not mean better breaking (I've leaned it the hard/expensive way)

High quality parts would fix some of the problems. 

One more thing to try is going from a 1" master to 1 1/4". 

My two cents.

If uk registered has to have rear fog working lights only one side (left side)

Please correct me if I'm wrong. 

I can vouch for Tim too. He did all of the above on my new imported jdm forester few years ago.

Great work.

You're right, but u can manually shift an 4eat (buttons on the steering wheel to be used in manual mode, similar to padels) 

Not sure yet if to let it go, but I've got an jdm(wrx), cross sports, '07, EJ205, 4eat (sport), 50k/ish, first UK owner. Not cheap.

If you're interested let me know.

Look for a JDM forester ( cross sports), they usually come with a body kit and a 2.0T

What Judd said.

2007 Cross Sport JDM with 4EAT transmission, transmission oil "refreshed " as through regular procedure you can only drain about 4 ltr. My concern would be that if contaminated with 75w80 (100% sure it's diff oil) a full drain would be necessary. 

I did it myself with this:

Light bulb...maybe? 

...and unfortunately there are two of them, that usually should get changed together.

There is an easy and guaranteed fix. 

Change head gasket.

In some applications a sensor for oil level cuts out fuel.

I may be wrong, but it can be an engine oil level related problem (oil starving)

You must be joking. 

Flex Z too, but I found the problem. The ARB(22mm) on the softest setting (outside hole) had not enough travel room and was hitting one of the suspension components. Replace it with 17mm ARB (the original) and Bob's ur uncle. 

Hope it's helpful. 

On 7/12/2024 at 12:50 PM, robin w said:

Hi i have just polybushed and fitted coilovers to my sg forester 2.0 l xt but the springs are way to harsh for our roads they have sent me 7 kg and 9kg any sugestions as to what would be ideal and stop my fillings coming out?!

You are not the only one. I've got the adjustable tein and running on almost the softest setting. It looks is not the dampers, is the springs. I've also had the rear 22 mm ARB and replaced back with the original 17 mm. ( the 22 mm is for sale) 

Looking for ideas too.

As Siluro said, CVT, an infinit number of gears. 

Look for another mechanic. 

Hi, I've got a back box from a JDM Subaru SG 2007,  used but like new.

Do a search for "2007 Forester mufler for sale"

@ Dobz

EBC and other known brake producers (DBA is my favorite as all their discs are high carbon) offer painted discs. As for EBC pads, Yellow stuff is my favorite. Initial bite is great, low dust and a long life. My car is a daily driver - automatic. 

In my opinion brakes are brakes, 2 pots,4 pots ....you do your own service or find someone u trust and be OK.

Forget dealerships!!!

4. Vredestein Quatrac Pro 

Look on TEMU for an infinite models on the cheap side