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Are the turbos faulty


shadowvyper
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Hi all I would first like to wish you all a happy new year, that done does any one have any ideas as to why my twin turbo legacy revs to about 3000rpm and then judders making the check engine light come on and there after it wont rev above 3000rpm at all it just judders and stays below the 3000 mark. It clears itself after a restart but comes back again as soon as I try to accelerate above 3000rpm again. I thus far have not been able to source a workshop manual for the car any ideas where I might find one. Its a 97 legacy twin turbo import from japan with the 2.0l boxer engine. Thank you in advance for all your help.

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Hi mate happy new year to your good self. Could be many things. From maf to vac lines with a leak. One thing that it could be though is if the cam wheel isn't on straight gives the sensor a bad reading.

 

Is it like this ?

 

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Most important is the check for fault codes. If that's not done, it's all guess work.

I'm willing to bet on either the MAF or the lambda sensor but don't spend money on anything without checking the codes. It's free to do, easy and only takes 5 minutes max.

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Thanks for all the replies its very much appreciated. Not quite like that gambit it hesitates then check engine light then it wont rev over 3000rpm. Thank you Mr B manuals look nearly spot on at least I will have some idea now as to what I am looking at. I will be having the codes read on Friday but as I said it will correct itself as soon as you turn off the ignition and re start it. Hopefully though something will show up on the codes. I think this is going to be my summer project I love the look and the sound of the car and its a wee bit nippy too when its running right .Again thank you all for your much needed advice.

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Could also be an air leak in one of the many vacuum hoses that control the switch from single-turbo to twin-turbo mode. If they are still the original there is a good chance one or more has cracked with age and the ECU has detected a pressure inbalance (code 66) and put the car into safe mode.

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Hello me again, ok just had new timing belt kit and water pump fitted, mechanic found a couple of hoses with loose hose clips one of which was the large hose on the dump valve he thinks that may have something to do with the engine light problem. it never did it while he had it so he couldn't get anything from the code reader. I will run the belts in for a couple of days then see what occurs when I boot it up the motorway. I see Adam you have a complete stainless steel exhaust with the centre pipe de cated that is my next project would it be rude to ask where you got it and how much it was please, it is exactly what I am after. Thanks again for the advice I will keep you posted as to the engine light problem. Cheers.

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To all Subaru Owner

Wish all of you " HAPPY NEW YEAR "

I have a problem with my JDM right hand subaru version 9 2006 power window wiring as I upload photo. I need the original wiring same model version 9 photo to follow the color of the wire to fix it back..Appreciate if you guy can help me.[emoji57]

My email : solomonlschan@gmail.com

post-3709-142172112182_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Tlag I hope my mechanic knows which 2 black wires as the car still has the engine check issue, I am going to have the bonnet up the weekend and give it a good going over to see if there are any visible issues with hoses and the like, I also read a good post regarding the cleaning of the maf will give that a go also.

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Would of thought your mechanic would have a diagnostic reader capable of basic communication with the pre OBD2 compliant subaru system.

Most decent garage kit does.

If you do have a 16pin OBD2 looking cable on your 97JDM then you can also use a ISO9141 compliant OBD2 cable & Free Subaru Select Monitor software (FreeSSM) to monitor faults & run tests.

Up to 1996 was 9pin ssm1 connector

97-on had 16 pin OBD but was wired different & was called ssm2 by subaru ...

 

FreeSSM software link is below >

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfNHVKZE13clFxc1E/view?usp=sharing

 

ssm2 16pin (OBD looking) compatible cable ISO9141 link is below >

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400786919123

 

How to make a 9pin ssm1 cable link is below >

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfTkZCOGlJVnJpSmM/view?usp=sharing

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If its getting to 3000 rpm and then starting there, then it would tend to indicate something like a throttle position sensor or crank sensor is faulty. Either way if the fault always happens at 3000 rpm then the ECU will go into emergency mode and switch on the EML to warn that you need to stop the engine. If its fuel starvation, then the same will occur too. Simple check is put some injector cleaner in the tank to unblock any injectors and see how it runs - if better then could be fuel starvation. Also, check in the dark to see if any of the plug leads are arcing to the engine.

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Thing is if CEL light comes on for faults like throttle sensor etc the codes will be stored.

CEL for misfire will not store so would be good check/replace leads & plugs just to rule out basics.

I have done a few scoobs with what seemed odd fault to turn into leads normally & on boosted motors plug & lead faults can be triggered by boost pressure as effects spark resistance.

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The two black plugs:

They are under the dash with a load of other plugs that largely don't connect to anything. Look under the dash between the steering column and the centre console. Amongst them, you will see two, single wire black plugs and two single wire green plugs.

Plug the black ones together, switch the key until the dash lights come on and watch the check engine light. Lomg flashes are counted as 10's and short ones as 1's.

If more than one code is stored, it will run through them in sequence before starting over again, so you have to keep your ey on it for a while to make sure you have them all.

To be honest, even if your mechanic has a code reader that can read it, this way is probably quicker.

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Thanks Tlag that's me weekend taken care of, are these cars always this much trouble it is my first Subaru. I intend to keep it and want to get it up to scratch although I fear I may have bitten off more than I can chew, I have a lot of research to do me thinks. Cheers.

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Thanks Gambit the thread for the code reading and codes is very much appreciated thank you. And thanks to every one for the advice it is a godsend to be able to get such great advice without it costing an arm and a leg. will keep you posted with my new pet project I do love the look of the car and when goes she really goes.

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No problem mate it's what we're all here for to share knowledge. Not that I have much I learn from the likes of MrB and Tlag Savage still :D but we never stop learning I guess. And as for costing I've not sent the bill out yet ;) But I can be easily bribed with a Fredo Haha  :lol: Well let us know how you get on hopefully easy fixes :) 

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  • 7 months later...

Hello Mate, I did get there eventually, it turned out to be the primary boost solenoid which you will find located to the front of the near side inner wing, I have to say also that I reconditioned my solenoid box and changed all my vacuum hosing. Good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

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