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IOWoc
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So iv been thinking about the advice given by savage regarding my project

basically il looking at building a 450hp car and have been planning on using a STI as a base ( see what i did there) to build from, savage however rightly advised me that i might be better of buying a cheaper WRX to use as my base as most STI parts would be replaced in the build process.

so my question is are there any down sides to using a -

UK turbo 2000, WRX or STI ?

are there any to avoid ect?

the uk 2000 and STI and the cheaper of the 3 for me to insure followed £400 later by the WRX

the uk 2000 is also a lot cheaper to buy but are there any fundamental differences Casings ect that would prevent me using a UK 2000 for my build ? I will be replacing most parts anyway pistons, rods, maybe even a stroker kit ect

all suggestions and Info welcome :D:D:D

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May be worth looking at what you would need to get to 450 HP 

 

http://www.racedynamix.co.uk/remap/subaru-remapping/typical-upgrade-path-newage-2-0-sti/

 

The above link gives a good rule of thumb

 

Just weather the cost saving is worth the difference in breaks, 6 speed transmission, some stronger parts, bigger top mount, bigger turbo and so on. 

 

but on the plus STI parts are normally avaliable if you find someone breaking up an STI, or if you could find yourself a doner STI ? 

All depends on what you can get for what price 

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Cheers chris

sorry i forgot to mention the car will be a classic but that info is handy none the less

and as it will be a classic a 6 speed swap will be on the cards already and the same goes for brakes, turbo, fmic ect

what i really want to know is is there anything such as weaker casings ect in a UK 2000 that would make the turbo 2000 unsuitable for my build?

the STI would be great but as savage said i would be removing most the STI parts to upgrade them to reach 450 anyway so i could save 1k and buy the 2000 and just start from there rather than having STI do some of the work already for me

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Imo the main thing needed is a rust free shell/subframes for a long term project and unfortunately uber clean uk's are thin on the ground due to the amount of salt used on our roads.

I do find the fact that a wrx is £400 more for you to insure quite strange , have you tried any other companies for quotes ?

Pretty much all that's still oe classic sti on my engine is the cams but if you intend on building a engine and replacing yours that won't matter as you can just buy sti heads to suit your version of classic . That way the cars only off the road for a weekend while fitting the engine rather than months waiting for the machine work and build to be completed.

As for body work/ interior it's all interchangeable (I've got hatch sti seats in mine) the only other main things that you get on a jdm that aren't on a uk Is

Ally bonnet

Ally front wishbones

Better suspension .

A sti would put a bigger smile on your face once mapped and you could probably resell a few of the sti bits you remove when upgrading to people with uk's or wrx's but I doubt you'd get the extra grand back.

Basically I think its down to your needs in the short term as a sti (280 hp standard) with a remap will see 330hpish with stock turbo and injectors

A uk (220 hp standard) with remap will see 270 hp ish with stock turbo and injectors

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I do find the fact that a wrx is £400 more for you to insure quite strange , have you tried any other companies for quotes ?

yer iv used confused, gocompare ect and rang round a few and all seem to be there or there abouts :S

Pretty much all that's still oe classic sti on my engine is the cams but if you intend on building a engine and replacing yours that won't matter as you can just buy sti heads to suit your version of classic . That way the cars only off the road for a weekend while fitting the engine rather than months waiting for the machine work and build to be completed.

so new head but as you said save down time plus i can get some porting and polishing done without down time too - so good so far

A sti would put a bigger smile on your face once mapped and you could probably resell a few of the sti bits you remove when upgrading to people with uk's or wrx's but I doubt you'd get the extra grand back.

Basically I think its down to your needs in the short term as a sti (280 hp standard) with a remap will see 330hpish with stock turbo and injectors

A uk (220 hp standard) with remap will see 270 hp ish with stock turbo and injectors

id be more than happy to start with 220 :D

Imo the main thing needed is a rust free shell/subframes for a long term project and unfortunately uber clean uk's are thin on the ground due to the amount of salt used on our roads.

so the long and short is buy as clean a car as possable and one way or another i can get close to my target
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TBH your best bet will be pick a tuner and get them to spec it up based on budget. 400bhp setup right will be a faster car than 450 mismatched.

 

Some can custom build cars to to suit or sources cars for you. A reliable 450bhp is gonna need plenty of supporting mods so it's not gonna be cheap.

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TBH your best bet will be pick a tuner and get them to spec it up based on budget. 400bhp setup right will be a faster car than 450 mismatched.

 

Some can custom build cars to to suit or sources cars for you. A reliable 450bhp is gonna need plenty of supporting mods so it's not gonna be cheap.

over all cost isnt such a big factor at the end of the day il spend what iv got to spend till im happy

unfortunately if not got ££££ to hand a garage to sort it all out for me, it will be a targeted approach of save, buy, fit, map and repeat

all major mods would be set up properly with supporting mods and mapped in

i purely wanted to make sure there wasn’t any fundamental differences between the turbo 2000, WRX and STI that would make any of them unsuitable for the build

i dont want you thinking iv just picked this number and dont know that alot is involved in getting there

iv prepared for long nights, empty wallets, cut knuckles and plenty of tea haha

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yer iv used confused, gocompare ect and rang round a few and all seem to be there or there abouts :S

so new head but as you said save down time plus i can get some porting and polishing done without down time too - so good so far

id be more than happy to start with 220 :D

so the long and short is buy as clean a car as possable and one way or another i can get close to my target

Yeah everything is interchangeable so basically just start with a rust free Shell or your end up spending a extra few k sorting the arches .

I'd also consider getting somebody to take you for a blast in a 300 hp classic to see if you really want to hit 450 hp with your build .

As a friend of mine couldn't catch my 330hp classic in his 420 hp classic type r due to his bigger gt30 turbo not spooling as quick and only hitting 1.4 @ 5.5 k whereas mine hits 1.5 bar @4k .

There's a difference between pub bragging figures and drive ability [emoji6]

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Yeah everything is interchangeable so basically just start with a rust free shell or your end up spending a extra few k sorting the arches .

I'd also consider getting somebody to take you for a blast in a 300 hp classic to see if you really want to hit 450 hp with your build .

As a friend of mine couldn't catch my 330hp classic in his 420 hp classic type r due to his bigger gt30 turbo not spooling as quick and only hitting 1.4 @ 5.5 k whereas mine hits 1.5 bar @4k .

There's a difference between pub bragging figures and drive ability [emoji6]

thats great to hear - just been eyeing up Scotts in the for sale section

iv been in a 380hp classic and loved it! might be a bit different to drive tho haha

cheers again everyone :D

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