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BOOST SOLENOID


Calq98
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Hi all.. With the green plugs under dash connected.. Ignition on(car not started) should the solenoid be constantly clicking ? Or does it just click once as soon as u turn ignition on?

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Could be the reason i have no boost then..wishful thinking probably.. Mine feels like it clicks when first turning ignition on when green plugs connected. That's about it.. Cheers for the help mate

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Try disconnecting the vac lines and spraying a load of brake cleaner through the top till it runs out the bottom &is clearer. May just be gummed up with age.

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

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I took the hoses off and sprayed cleaner In but through into thw holes where vac lines go onto.. The top of it has a little rubber cap

On it where the plug wires go into. Do I take that off and spray ?

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If the cars been mapped with a boost controller in situ the mapper might have mapped out some of the functions of the oe boost controller but even then I would have thought when the plugs are together it would have still clicked a lot while performing the diagnostic tests (unless the diagnosis mode doesn't work with certain types of mappable ecu as I know it doesn't on my apexi fc ecu )

Has your "spare part " scoob got a 2 port solinoid if so maybe try switching solinoids to see if that one clicks more when the green plugs are together.

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I spoke to the guy who owned this car before my mate.(my mate never did anything with it) and the guy put the boost controller in himself.. So the vac and boost controller wasn't setup for the map. I put the vac lines back to standard. Copied a diagram that I found for those models. Made no different. The spare scooby I have has a different solenoid so can't try it. The solenoid clicked once when ignition first turned on.(greens connected) but I tried running a vac line from turbo housing to actuator and plugged the loose pipes I pulled off. Like u said but made no difference. Surely that's bypassing the solenoid ?

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Next port of call should be taking a look at the ecu seeing what it is and if it's been opened. Might be able to shed some more light on it.

May sound daft but has somone tried to 'wind up' the actuator arm to increase the boost made a mess of it and now it's stuck open ?

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

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the ecu is still the mapped one.. I've looked at it but haven't opened it up. I'm not gd with electrics so don't want to touch the inside.the actuator isn't adjustable.i can move the arm by hand fairly easy but there is pressure there. Should I be able to move it by hand ?

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Does it look like a standard subaru one ? There should be a number &letter on a coloured sticker. Obviously won't tell you if it's been els'd but there may be a mapper sticker on the cover

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

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And by what I have just read that map can also delete maf sensor..as savage bulldog said. So it wouldn't be that causing bad idle if it has been deleted.

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Deleting the maf can be done with that ecu but you can't be 100% sure without having a mapper check the map parameters ,especially at the moment with it not running right in the first place

the straight vac line from actuator to turbo trick by passes the boost solinoid system so if you still haven't got boost faulty actuator does seem quite likely .

other than alcatek maybe not supporting the "green plug self code check" I'm not sure why the solinoid only clicks a few times in diagnostic mode .

I can move my actuator arm by hand but not anymore than about 5mm but i have to use a fair amount of force (doesn't move easily)

Can you move the waste gate arm easily by hand ?

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Well I've managed to source a perfect working order maf the same which I'm going to try Wednesday.. See if it makes any difference. The solenoid literally clicks once when first turning ignition on.. That's it.its not a loud click I just put my fingers on it and felt it click. Almost like a relay clicking. I can move the actuator the full way till it's not supposed to go any further. And I can move it fairly easy. There is pressure there but it does move easy. Without force.

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I've never had to buy a actuator but I did look into buying a billet core and building a hybrid .I'm fairly sure most places list tdo and vf series as separate items but haven't had the need to cross reference the part numbers.

Mixed reviews with the kinuwga stuff and you'll probably have to pay a bit of import tax on top .

I'd probably give the vf23 23 actuator pressure a bit of a Google and try to source a second hand standard pressure actuator, just in case there's nothing wrong with the actuator and it's something else I haven't thought of

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