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How to save your whiteline ksb751 install when it goes wrong


stants
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After my experience last week with the install and trying to find a solution it appeared there wasn't a great deal around.

So if like me you manage to break the welds on the catlptive nut all is not lost,

Start by making a brew and taking a moment to compose yourself after the panic/rage wears off, the captive nut is located in a box section under the o/s passenger seat,

Start by removing the two 12mm bolts that hold the seat base down

b76b855aba52d1ffea34ec40fb95d519.jpg

Lift off to reveal this,

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There's already a small hole in the bottom right of the picture which is fairly close to where you need to be,

If you peel back the black foam protector which holds some of the loom onto the seat you'll see it's slightly raised, I started off with a 5mm bit and made a pilot hole where I thought it was, 1st one missed by miles hence my finger covering it up in the pic, the 2nd one was pretty much spot on over the top of the nut

eddb1ce17cbfdcca3148fdd56fbe7fb4.jpg

Being at work I only had limited tools, so I drilled 4 more holes round the main pilot then opened the area up with a Jr hacksaw blade,

Please ignore the 4 holes I drilled in error at the top of the pic, the phone went by the time I returned I couldn't remember where I left off [emoji35]

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Finally after much skinning of nuckles

cfaa7f9b1c78d2820c6b9ac5095612e5.jpg there she is !

The top of the captive nut is 19mm so depending on what your plan is, you can either re weld captive nut or just do as I did, 19mm on top and 17mm on underneath of car and re tighten, this was a quick fix as I needed to drive car home,

The following day I made good the pilot I messed up by priming and repainting the bare metal, followed by injecting some silicone sealant and sealing the underside of the car, as for the 2" square hole I used to access the captive nut I've left it open but covered with a piece of duck tape so I can keep an eye on it with a view to re welding the captive nut in future

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Maybe if you manged to remove the bolt and had something small enough to fit through the holes in the diff outrigger then through the floor, I just roughly measured and tapped the floor so I could hear where abouts I was,

The captive nut sits in it's own box section so it's a bit of a pita to get at. Alternatively if you'd removed the whole of the front of the rear diff carrier you could get a lot easier access but that's a big job in it's self

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