Jump to content

2005 outback check engine light


tall_tog
 Share

Recommended Posts

HI All , 

new to here although not new to subarus and i've been hiding in the forester forum for 6 months but just couldn't get on with it so have returned to an outback

Anyway - 

I have the check engine light after a 30 mile drive , stopped at shop, started it back up and the CEL stayed on.

I've seen a lot of mention of it being to do with the fuel cap not being tight enough or leaking pressure, is this an urban myth or fact?

I've opened it closed and tightened until a good couple of  clicks but the light is still on.

Car drives totally unaffected

Going back to where i bought it tomorrow so they can plug it in and clear the memory then see what happens

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites


On some manufacturers if the cap isn't on the evap system won't be working at full efficency so can throw codes, or the carbon canister is saturated (if applicable) the same happens, do you have a Bluetooth dongle ? The generic ones are cheap as are the apps you'd be able to read the code and have some idea of what's coming up before taking it back for the garage to sort

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

took it to local garage that i use and they plugged it in for me.

cat converter bank 1 was the warning code

they've reset it and after 20 miles stop start it hasnt come back on yet.

Is that the lambda sensor potentially?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and to reply to the questions - 2.5L 

gentle driving in very wet conditions on A roads then 15 miles steady 75 on dual carriageway

i think it had been sitting for some time before i bought it, would that do it ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way I understand it, cat efficiency bank 1 codes can be triggered by a number of causes, most not directly connected to the cat or the lambda sensor. These include;

  • A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
  • Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
  • The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
  • Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / silencer / exhaust pipe
  • Retarded spark timing
  • The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar readings
  • Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
  • Cylinder misfire
  • Oil contamination
  • Poor fuel quality
  • Vacuum leaks

You might want to try a little sleuthing before changing parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you get an OBDII cable or Bluetooth dongle ( easiest)  from the bay, and the torque app,  

 

Set them up, then look at the lambda setting & fuel settings,  then run the car and observe the readings,   then clear the CEL using the app. Drive the car again until it fails, then look at the readings,   You should see what is returning the error message.

 

If the car has stood, it may be crap on the lamda sensor, or the cat has become contaminated  with unburnt fuel.

 

Try a tank of cataclean and see what values are returned.

 

Do you have an exhaust blow at all? that can also upset the fueling / lambda values. Check vacuum lines,  if any are perished, they too will have an effect.

 

Mart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership