took dbw throttle body off my hawkeye today to clean it, gave it a good beasting with carb cleaner and a tooth brush, then found a little hole that went into the plastic cover so drowned whatever was in there with loads of carb cleaner then bashed compressed air in there at 100psi for ages until no more cleaner came out of the plastic anymore, put it all together and now I got trouble, I've obviously damaged whatever is in there, most likely the tps as it is running really badly lean if I get into larger throttle openings and boost with the afr jumping wildly or just staying at  14.7 through the boost until I mash the pedal, then it will drop straight to 10.4, obviously the throttle flap is opening as per the request from the pedal, but the tps is not reading this so the Ecu is not putting in the appropriate amount of fuel, anyway, thought I best put it on here to stop anyone else messing theirs up by doing the same (is anyone that daft? or is it just me) anyway, I don't hold out much hope of it being any better in the morning so I will be after getting another one, oh joy !

Did you 'clean' off the varnish like substance that's on the very lip of the tb between the flap and the intake ? If so I reckon that's what's done it, there's supposed to be that 'lip' to make a seal when the throttle is closed, [emoji22]

More than likely mate, did give it a good brushin tbh, it's absolutely fine at idle and driving as long as you stay out of boost, and it's also fine if you stamp on the pedal, but if you try and bring it up from zero boost progressively as soon as it gets into positive pressure it starts holding back and hesitating, and the afr goes either crazy, or just stays lean, if it stays lean it doesn't hold back, and hesitate, I'm starting to think I really shouldn't try and get into tuning lol, I've got the battery off doing a reset to see if that makes any odds at all, if not, will have to replace it, not really sure what I've damaged, unless there is some sort of barometric pressure sensor in there, or its that thing you said (unsmiley face)

I've cleaned mine before same way but only did the faces each side and the metal around it :( if it was a sensor should get a cel light on. I'd check the pipe work is nice and tight and that the Y pipe is secure on might be taking in air.  

Ive had the cooler off and cannot find anything untoward pipe wise, it's got swrd silicone boost hoses, and the boost is strong, drove around today with a scan tool unplugging each sensor in turn but nothin changed it, got the freessm hooked up today also, so gonna try and make head or tail of all that, just downloading romraider at the mo, and have another throttle body and map sensor on order, see if that sorts it

Have to keep us updated mate. Hopefully it will sort it. :)

I !Removed! hope it does, in theory (and practice actually :) all I did was remove the T body, clean it in my own special way 😜 And put it back on, so I'm just praying its that, can't really see anything jumping out at me yet with freessm other than at idle at least, the throttle duty is jumping around all over the place, finjers crossed....

I don't know what the codes mean or much about hawks but did you remove the tps from the throttle body?

Cos on classics if you remove the tps you have to mark it up first so it goes back in exactly the same position to give the same reading as before

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's integral mate as its bl@@dy drive by whire... Am seeing 20in.hg vacuum at idle which equates to about -10psi, is this right or is it supposed to be -20psi, Google time I think, altho its always been 20in

Ok, I got

 

air fuel correction

min -14-7%

max 18.8%

thats after a 14 mile drive

Throttle body has arrived, time to find out if it is that, wish me luck 😬

Fingers crossed mate 

Fitted it this afternoon, took it for a run, immediately better, little more roughness on #4 but no knock correction, boost is up a few psi and so is power and driveability, afr learning and correction have changed, still got to work out what's good or bad, and it's probably best to reset the ecu as its learned some orrible stuff, but also maybe not reset it and see what it learns ? Hmmm, anyway upshot is its running massively better already, without a reset or any learning, and my start of boost stumble and any other hesitation also seems to have gone so as long as it carries on this way looks like the throttle body or the electrics on it were on the way out, see what tomorrow brings with a longer drive......

bottom pic is latest

Glad to hear it's running better not familiar with the software I know what it is but never used it unfortunately :) I'd be tempted to reset and see if anything comes back though. 

Have taken that advice mate, just popped the battery off for the night, given the brake pedal a few stomps, will do the uncle scotty (I think that's what he's called) reset in the morn when it's cold and see if it all stays Rosie