Piggysniffer Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Ok, replaced throttle body as per my other thread title on my hawk, car was immediately much better, drove it about a bit no knocking and better afr learning/correction etc, reset ecu last night, drove car today for 14 miles to gym then my mates unit so it was parked for 90 mins at gym and got back in it, and it didn't miss a beat, drove up the unit, parked it up for 4 or 5 hours, got in it, drove it for about 5 miles fine ( all the time freessm running) booted it across a roundabout and it started playing up, -2.8% knock correction, rising afr correction and hesitation and feeling switchy on the throttle, drove down 2 miles of dual carriageway giving it a little boost and by the time I pull off I have an afr correction of +25 and -5% knock correction maximum and a constant knock correction of 1.8%. Limped it home as its running awful with hesitation and its ticking over awful, any attempt to raise the revs and it hits -5% knock correction, spray loads of wd40 and map gas around looking for leaks, can't find any anywhere, take bpv off and blow through it to see if it's leaking, seems fine ( it's been crushed as it was leaking before) I think I may have pushed the plunger in can't remember, anyway, put it back on, Start car and reset with freessm, which I assume resets ecu ? And it starts and runs fine, drive down the road like nothing ever happened, give it a boot full and get a little roughness back and a one time -1.5% knock correction and nothing more, afr learning and correction ok again as well, tbh I'm at my wits end with it, any possibility the crushed bpv is acting up. Sticking open a bit maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Well I think I'm gonna bore you lot to tears with this bl@@dy car, so I'm gonna suffer in silence and either sort it or sell it, will pop on and inform if I find the problem adios amigos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaulson Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 If you suspect the BOV is at fault you should try another on it. It's amazing what problems little things can cause, I hope you find the fault and keep the car :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aucky Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 @Piggysniffer you wont bore us mate talking bout your car,thats what we all do,keep at it am sure someone will have good advice or you will figure it out your self.have you tryed what Gaulson suggested? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 certainly wont be bored - stick with it as it may just be a simple fix - I would change the BOV as suggested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Have to apologize on the replys with the forum being changed over most of us if not all are learning how to use it. Is it a vent to atmosphere valve ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobydoobydan Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hey my fello West Sussex Scooby fan (or not at the mo) stick with it mate, it will more than likely be something really stupid and little as its always the case with cars!!! And us being blokes love to play with em but little things that go wrong we want to cry and sell it!! ( I know I do) might be worth plugging it in to see if any codes come up or as above swapping it over....... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Afternoon all, thanks for the replies :), well been fiddling/spannering like mad, could take the intercooler off in my sleep now I think, have had the pcv valve off from the back of the manifold and cleaned it, Uncrushed the bpv (standard unit) with a view to getting another, and have fitted a simoto panel filter, and filled up with a new tank of v power, as of the last two days the car is running like a dream, the oil consumption is down, and the knock correction readings are at a constant zero across the board, so hopefully it may be ok, I think mostly it was the bpv as I had crushed it due to loosing some boost psi and then in my wisdom had crushed it again, and it seems the boost was lost due to a combination of bad throttle body and ecu pulling boost ??? Or maybe oil blow by through pcv ?? The mind can truly boggle ! So it's looking good .... But :) I now have the eml on telling me the secondary air system is at fault lol lol, I'm sure it was valve stuck closed, anyway, just had to laugh really, the car is absolutely mint from top to bottom inside and out with every bill, service and stamp etc so it's really worth keeping, I suppose being at 97.5k things are gonna be wearing out also I have been trying to set up romraider on my laptop so I can check the IAM but I am lost as to how to load ecu defs etc, think I'm gonna have to find someone pc savvy to do it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Oh great news mate well done for sticking with it. I've never used Romraider so can't really help with that but I'm not bad with PC :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 :) it's trying my patience that's for sure, changed the oil and filter today, started it up, drove up the road, it started buckin and messing around again, had a look online and read that the knock sensor doesn't like the engine being started after an oil change due to the drier nature of the internals and can pull some timing due to extra noise, sure enough, put pc on it, it's pulled some timing, these cars really are too complicated for their own good..... Never had all this grief with my old cosworths, bung a pod filter on and a full exhaust, maybe a chip, wind the waste gate up a bit and wire a "hang on" button to the Amal valve and your off lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 I know they're a pain when they do go wrong like chasing earthing faults Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Oh no... Don't jinx me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Tempting fate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Hi guys, been really at it with the car and doing a bit of loitering over on an unnamed American owners site that is sometimes called nastysock lol, anyway my cars problems have perplexed both clubs on both sides of the pond by the looks but I think I may have some good news, the latest problem was that the secondary air pump had rusted, seized and burned out which seemed to create other running problems, anyway I have replaced the pump with one from a vauxhaul vectra as I refused to pay the rediculous prices being asked for scooby ones second hand, so that's sorted now, the main issue has still been hesitation with running rich, low boost and knock, I have replaced , front o2, knock sensor,throttle body, electronic throttle pedal assembly, maf, map, plugs, air filter, crushed bpv, Uncrushed bpv, crushed bpv again, etc, still low boost randomly between 14.7 and maybe 16psi, done loads more fiddling around to no avail really, a while back I disconnected the waste gate pipe to see if the turbo could make more boost, it did but it took a while to get there ( clue 1) also when driving the car and bringing it on boost it had lost its snap as boost kicked in (clue 2), anyway drove it today after revving it from cold trying to find a boost leak with leak spray, ended up with a low IAM .325, constant knock -2.7 and -3.5 at its worst, low boost, bad hesitation, and weird afr readings, got to thinking bout boost leaks some more, so, changed fuel pump to rule that out, still the same, so took off bpv return pipe.and blocked it off, vented bpv to air, reset ecu, up the road I go -8.5 knock, still low boost (12-14psi), so I'm then thinking that the only thing left is the turbo, I know it can make boost but slowly, so now I'm thinking what about a waste gate problem, makes absolute sense, so I get a pry bar (cheesed off now !) and pry the actuator back a bit to add more preload to the arm ( 😜 I know !) refit bpv and take it up the road, instant power increase, a real bite when boost kicks in and 16.5 psi and no knock, so take it back, give the actuator another tweek, and it's back to 17.99 psi and pulling like a train, so hopefully that was most of the problem, it was running 18.4 psi when I first got it so I presume that's what it was tuned for, gonna give it a few days and report back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Just thought, have you checked the boost pill is in the right place ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Yes mate, even had it outta the tube to clean, tried a different size one also, bigger hole tho so meant even less boost :-/ the fact that my boost was random from drive to drive made me think waste gate, I think there is an issue with the actual bit in the turbo not closing properly tbh as there was a decent amount of pressure on the arm anyway, I will see how it goes but could need a new/recon turbo, or some sort of waste gate fixing, I'm literally crapping crapping it this mornin Incase it's not ok again when I drive it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Getting my head around the way subarus work I'm thinking that everything is set up/mapped for a certain amount of boost at a certain time (boost curve?) and that if the boost is not where it's supposed to be its gonna throw the whole shebang off, it was pulling loads of fuel out all the way through the romraider learning view box trying to meet the right afr with too low boost for the tune, up to -10% pulled at times across the board, maybe even a -12 at one point, last night I had a couple of columns with 0 in, a -1.5 and I think a -6 in the first column, so definately fueling better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash007ks Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Carb spray is better for finding leaks than wd40. if you have had to crush something in a bov I would say it's knackered , a friend had this on his evo and was causing him to loose boost hence making no power, we swapped it out and then was loads better. See if you can get hold of a standard recirc just for test purposes. turbo check, take the inter cooler off and then the pipe on the front of the turbo, gentles try moving the turbine towards you, if you can its fkcud, side to side there should be some play as when the engines on the oil takes up some slack. Check the Y pipes under the inter cooler, these are made from paper it would seem and are prone to splitting . Failing that YouTube will help you diagnose your wastegate :) Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Cheers mate, I've used cans of easy start, carb and brake cleaner, even electrical contact spray and map gas trying to find any leaks lol, I will get on YouTube 🙂 I crushed the bpv (standard item, a bit too old for a vent to air now lol) when my boost first started to go amiss and I had the beginnings of the hesitation issue, I've since Uncrushed it and then crushed it a little again while trying to diagnose my issue, last night tho, even with it being crushed it was still leaking on tickover when I took the return to inlet pipe off and blocked it and ran the bpv to air the tickover was up and down and had some stalling, also sprayed carb cleaner round by the return tube of the bpv at tickover and the revs rose, are the standard ones supposed to leak at tickover as its still only drawing air that's already been metered by the maf when the return pipe is back on as it will be a closed system, turbo was fine when I last checked bout a month ago, no play to speak of, have silicone intercooler pipes all done up tight, inlet to turbo pipe is good too, I've been all round it 100 times lol, cars been driving me nuts for weeks or more 😤 It's making proper boost now so I'm hoping it was an issue with the waste gate not shutting properly for whatever reason, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Bpv will be getting changed anyway !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Ok car seems to be running good now, but I think I may have to untweek the waste gate a little bit, I encountered what I assume must have been "boost cut "today 😳 Stamped on the gas, boost shot up, car lurched forward then felt like someone just switched it off then back on again at about -18 psi, not my idea of fun I must say, I think it may need to come down a bit it says 17.99 on romraider, not sure what psi it's supposed to cut at...... I will google it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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