kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 so ive been logging with evoscan and ive made this graph to see how my car is boosting. A graph for Engine Load/RPM at WOT What could be the cause of my problem? i hear a rattling noise from my turbo, but i dont know if this is the timbre of a decat downpipe or is my turbo dodgy? im hitting like 9.6psi at 3.4 k rpm, then my boost completey drops then shoots to 11psi then drops and shoots. ive checked intercooler hoses, lines etc, also changed the gaskets and up pipe and downpipe. will wake up tomorrow and get some fairy water on the upipe gasket for the turbo. anything else ive missed out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Give your wastegate /actuator arm a wiggle as it could be loose causing the rattle and the boost solinoid to struggle to hold boost . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 37 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: Give your wastegate /actuator arm a wiggle as it could be loose causing the rattle and the boost solinoid to struggle to hold boost . i go check now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 40 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: Give your wastegate /actuator arm a wiggle as it could be loose causing the rattle and the boost solinoid to struggle to hold boost . Yeh, it seems to be loose? i can move it with two fingers and it has a lot of rattle. how can i tighten it (googling too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 You can normally adjust the pre tension on the actuator arm by turning a nut on the arm but some don't adjust and if you adjust some they affect boost levels . So if it is adjustable mark the original position so you can put it back to "oe" if you get over / under boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 ok, i adjusted it as per a google video, im hitting 1 bar boost :D BUT the graph still looks like this: hitting 12.6psi at 3700 hitting 1bar/15psi at 4150 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 i really felt that faster spool!!! BUT; me no likely this no knock at around 3500-4000 this was the wastegate at stock position: i think ill give it 1.5/2 turns back :( 1 bar was fun :D:D:D: really need to get me an ESL hahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Have you reset your ecu after each adjustment of the wastegate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Piggysniffer said: Have you reset your ecu after each adjustment of the wastegate no :D Ill do it once i loosen the wastegate again to bring it back to 0.8-0.9 bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Yeah that's why I said to take note if the oe position of the adjuster .... unmapped over boost = nom nom pistons [emoji39] . that first pic is the solinoid duty map and not the boost curve obviously ? If adjusting the arm got rid of the rattle ? I'd suggest getting another working actuator as your current one sounds worn /weak . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Thing is, as your car has probably adjusted itself over a period of time to try and offset the weakening wastegate, tightening it up without resetting the ecu will probs put a lot of things out of sync, I would adjust the wastegate and reset then try each time you make an adjustment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 And also after a reset the car is prone to read knock for a period of time as it gets everything back where it should be 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 2 hours ago, savage bulldogs said: Yeah that's why I said to take note if the oe position of the adjuster .... unmapped over boost = nom nom pistons . that first pic is the solinoid duty map and not the boost curve obviously ? If adjusting the arm got rid of the rattle ? I'd suggest getting another working actuator as your current one sounds worn /weak . there is already some locktight on the original position :D. the adjusting arm has gotten rid of the rattle off boost, but i still here a rattle when im driving, may need a new actuator :o idk, i need to be sure before forking out. the first pic is engine load vs relative manifold pressure. Ill try find a td04 acutator then :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Datalog AFTER Tightening the old actuator by 1-2turns. i have abnormal occasional readings: O2 Min MAF Voltage WastegateDuty InjectorWidth ManifoldPressure AF\R Correction all on V-Power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Dunno much about how the graphs are supposed to look but the things listed all seem to be to do with airflow /fueling. Maybe check .... Loom earth's and plugs . Spark Plug colour /condition. Intake air leaks . Vacuum gauge check that the actuator is starting to open and reaching fully open at the correct pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Loom and earth/Plugs all good. Changed spark plugs, white in colour due to the injector cleaner i ran, other than that car running slightly rich! Intake air leaks, car is idling at -0.69 to -0.7, so i think i have full vaccum and no air leaks, will go around with some brake clean or carb clean when i do a cold start to see just incase. new actuator will be here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 right so i got the wastegate in and it made no difference, to be honest in the stock position it just rattles the flap at idle. the manifold relative pressure will be all over the place. -0.8, -0.6 , 0.2, 0.4 0.9 -0.8, -0.8, 0.9 this is all under WOT and respectively the boost solenoid cyclce will be 0% when i loose all my boost (-0.8) under WOT. i cleaned my solenoid out, ill try it again with a stronger cleaner. ill then proceed by checking all vac lines for any damage. ill then get a vac hose from the turbo nipple to wastegate nipple and remove the pill, this in theory should give me 0.5 bar boost! ill try to block off the vac lines with something too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Sounds like boost solenoid or map problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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