Hi I am a new member I'm currently restoring a 1996 Subaru Impreza type ra car runs but only when maf sensor in and when trying to boost the car bangs and backfires really loud plug the maf sensor in and car doesn't start looking for some help and possible the way the vacuum lines go and the boost solinoid go too thanks dean

Welcome to the club mate

Welcome Dean!

Sorry, just trying to figure out what you mean.  You say it does and doesn't run with maf?  

Is the engine standard to your knowledge? 

Basically car starts with maf sensor unplugged but won't boost and when comes onto boost car try's to cut out and pops and bangs and when starting first time car starts and cuts out for a bit then starts and idles

but when maf sensor is plugged in car won't start 

car is basically standard only got a decat pipe and 3 inch stainless all the way through the car is a 1996 type ra

Hi n welcome.

 

Sounds like a faulty or dirty maf .

Have a search in the tech section on here for the "sticky thread" self reading classic ecu codes .

Remove the maf and clean it with brake cleaner . Don't touch the fine wire airflow sensor wire (as they're very fragile) and make sure the maf is dry before refitting.

Do a ecu reset and then start it to see if the fault remains . If it's still not running right do another ecu code check to see if there's any fault code stored .

 

Let us know how you get on , bud

When cleaning a maf on a Nissan I used different intake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner... probably used brake cleaner can't remember, but everything finally went back to normal after using an egr valve cleaner! Just make sure whatever you use, doesn't leave anything behind!

 

 

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So tried a friends maf sensor and cool packs today from his one witch does run and still the same has anyone ever had a wiring issue on the engine loom or the loom that runs alongside the passengers side wing into the ecu 

Did the ecu have any codes stored ?

 

Did the maf have the same colour label and Did you reset the ecu after fitting the other parts ?

 

Have you checked all vac lines and intake pipework (from air filter to throttle body ) for leaks or cracks ?

 

Might be worth cleaning the idle control valve (just don't adjust the position ) .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See I don't know if vacuum lines are correct I know the turbo one and the dumpvalve is correct do you have any pics I could use to double check the vacuum pipes are ok

Last night I checked the only code I had was a mag sensor bit was thinking just because it was unplugged 

welcome to the club 

Not been on this for a while now and I still have the same problem car only run with maf sensor unplugged and car takes a bit to start when cold like it will start run for a few second then cut out then start again runs for a few seconds then cuts out does it for a bit then runs good when warm but doesn't boost just runs flat and when running you can plug the maf sensor in and it idles good but you try rev it and it doesn't rev ive tried everything just wanting to know if I should go buy a brand new maf sensor or what

This car you are restoring, is everything original and doing bodywork or has the engine, Ecu etc been changed?

 

Any codes from plugging in the self diagnostic wires under the dash?

Is the MAF in the right place?

To at least get it running it might be worth restoring original air intake as I had a problem with a ford I had by moving the MAF.

Cleaning a MAF on a Nissan I used air intake cleaner, electrical cleaner, brake cleaner.. that car would still overfuel and rev limit at around 4,000 but got rid of it when using Wynns petrol egr cleaner. As said, let it dry... leave it for at least an hour drip drying or just shaking the **** out of it.

 

Did you try unplugging exhaust sensor then starting to see if it makes a difference?

 

 

 

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