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clutch shaft


yoss
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I am removing the engine in my 98 jdm wrx sti (head gasket blowing) Do I need to remove the clutch fork shaft to separate the engine from the gearbox?..

       thanks Yoss.

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Are you going to refresh the bottom end ,or do you think you've caught it early enough?

 

As it's not much more time and money to do while the engines out and the heads are off .

 

Best of luck and don't skimp on any gaskets , the cheaper (and reused) gaskets tend to leak [emoji6]

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Well it didn't overheat just pressurized the radiator, lots of bubbles after a spell on boost.

Had a sniff test done  to confirm it. But.....it had new head gaskets fitted 4000miles ago by a "Subaru specialist" who to be fair had done good work on my cars in the past, but unfortunately is no longer trading.  So decided to remove the engine myself  with my sons help and take it from there. Thanks for your help, I shall probably be back for more..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well things going along OK so far, heads are off ready for skimming, Bores look good, Bit of wear but No scoring! So just a matter of cleaning everything up. The toothed cam belt idler is noisy, so will need replacing. £20 eBay or (£165+vat dealer)...  It had a new belt and tensioner  not that long ago so that should be fine. Going to fit either Cosworth or Roger Clarke head gaskets, as much the same price and spec.  So far So good!!

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If you haven't had to skim the heads or block deck faces, phone Luke and ask him what the oe thickness should be for your model to reach the 8.5.1 compression ratio .

 

As there's quite a few differences in cylinder head chamber and piston bowl cc used in different version / models of classics

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Engine should be going back in this weekend if all goes well. what is the correct method of refitting the clutch fork and pin?

The thrust bearing seems to be attached to clutch on this model, all the online videos show a conventional setup. Probabley quite easy but want to make sure before I have to lift the engine in.

Cheers Yoss..

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You have to take the thrust race off the clutch by gently removing the "spring circlips" in the middle of the thrust race .

 

Once separated from the clutch put the circlips back in the thrust race . Re assemble the fork ,thrust race and (lubed ) pivot pin into the box .

 

Tie the fork back to keep the thrust race away from the clutch plate assembly while re locating the box . Once the box is on and the bellhousing is fully mated with the engine ,untie the fork and gently (by hand) pull the fork to make the thrust race "lock" into the clutch .

 

You should hear a click as the "circlip springs " lock the thrust race in place .

 

Hope you can make sense of that ?

 

Unfortunately i haven't got any pics of refitting the clutch fork

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Thanks the clutch is now OK. But time has flown by and haven't got on with it much.

Next question. Cam sealing.  Have put in new oil seals, Do I put any sealant  under the the first cam bearing/seal cap?  Don't like doing it. But some forums say its needed,and its easy to do while the engine is on the bench. 

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If they're genuine gaskets you dont need sealants but i think some might just smear a little bit to hold the gasket in place while fitting . Make sure you change the half moons at the back of the cams and go steady tightening the cam cover bolts . As they only need torque'ing down very lightly and you can eaisly strip the threads

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  • 4 weeks later...

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