clutch shaft

[yoss]

I am removing the engine in my 98 jdm wrx sti (head gasket blowing) Do I need to remove the clutch fork shaft to separate the engine from the gearbox?..

       thanks Yoss.

[JamesJDMwagon]

No just the pin it's hidden behind a cover, the cover is hex. Then you wind in a bolt and pull the pin. There be a video on YouTube 

[savage bulldogs]

Clutch fork pivot pin is near the starter motor behind a hex head cap . You have to wind a bolt into the end of the pin to pull it out [emoji6]

[JamesJDMwagon]

Better description then my comment and pictures savage! 😂 

Its a nightmare if you didn't know it was there not that I struggled for hours trying to get the box out in my first scooby 😅

[savage bulldogs]

It's probably the most uploaded pic on my phone , easy when you know but can be hell'va confusing if you don't lol

[yoss]

Thank you very much,

I thought it had to come out, but it seemed quite tight so left it alone till was sure about it..

 

[savage bulldogs]

Are you going to refresh the bottom end ,or do you think you've caught it early enough?

 

As it's not much more time and money to do while the engines out and the heads are off .

 

Best of luck and don't skimp on any gaskets , the cheaper (and reused) gaskets tend to leak [emoji6]

[yoss]

Well it didn't overheat just pressurized the radiator, lots of bubbles after a spell on boost.

Had a sniff test done  to confirm it. But.....it had new head gaskets fitted 4000miles ago by a "Subaru specialist" who to be fair had done good work on my cars in the past, but unfortunately is no longer trading.  So decided to remove the engine myself  with my sons help and take it from there. Thanks for your help, I shall probably be back for more..

[yoss]

Well things going along OK so far, heads are off ready for skimming, Bores look good, Bit of wear but No scoring! So just a matter of cleaning everything up. The toothed cam belt idler is noisy, so will need replacing. £20 eBay or (£165+vat dealer)...  It had a new belt and tensioner  not that long ago so that should be fine. Going to fit either Cosworth or Roger Clarke head gaskets, as much the same price and spec.  So far So good!!

[Piggysniffer]

I think I would be inclined to put a whole new cam belt and pulley kit on tbh, only wants one moody component and it's fubar engine

[savage bulldogs]

Give Luke at import car parts a bell , that's where most of us buy new oe subaru stuff [emoji6]

[yoss]

Yeah thanks, I have looked on his website. has everything I need on it.. How do you go about getting the right thickness head gasket ?

[savage bulldogs]

If you haven't had to skim the heads or block deck faces, phone Luke and ask him what the oe thickness should be for your model to reach the 8.5.1 compression ratio .

 

As there's quite a few differences in cylinder head chamber and piston bowl cc used in different version / models of classics

[yoss]

Engine should be going back in this weekend if all goes well. what is the correct method of refitting the clutch fork and pin?

The thrust bearing seems to be attached to clutch on this model, all the online videos show a conventional setup. Probabley quite easy but want to make sure before I have to lift the engine in.

Cheers Yoss..

[savage bulldogs]

You have to take the thrust race off the clutch by gently removing the "spring circlips" in the middle of the thrust race .

 

Once separated from the clutch put the circlips back in the thrust race . Re assemble the fork ,thrust race and (lubed ) pivot pin into the box .

 

Tie the fork back to keep the thrust race away from the clutch plate assembly while re locating the box . Once the box is on and the bellhousing is fully mated with the engine ,untie the fork and gently (by hand) pull the fork to make the thrust race "lock" into the clutch .

 

You should hear a click as the "circlip springs " lock the thrust race in place .

 

Hope you can make sense of that ?

 

Unfortunately i haven't got any pics of refitting the clutch fork

[yoss]

Yeah I think so!!

It looks as though I need to remove the clutch cover. Is that right?

if so I will have to make up an alignment tool.

 

[savage bulldogs]

Yeah you have to take the clutch off ,remove the thrust race, align the clutch and torque the pressure plate back down . I bought a cheap "lazer" alignment tool ftom halfrauds

[yoss]

Thanks the clutch is now OK. But time has flown by and haven't got on with it much.

Next question. Cam sealing.  Have put in new oil seals, Do I put any sealant  under the the first cam bearing/seal cap?  Don't like doing it. But some forums say its needed,and its easy to do while the engine is on the bench. 

[savage bulldogs]

If they're genuine gaskets you dont need sealants but i think some might just smear a little bit to hold the gasket in place while fitting . Make sure you change the half moons at the back of the cams and go steady tightening the cam cover bolts . As they only need torque'ing down very lightly and you can eaisly strip the threads

[yoss]

Well the engine went back in, and is sounding sweet!!   Took it  for MoT today and Passed!  So all good..

 Thanks again to Savage Bulldogs for all the help.

    Cheers Yoss.

[savage bulldogs]

Your welcome yoss, 🖒
Glad all is well and its up n running again .

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