Martian Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Hi all, First up I have tried everything I can to source info, multiple google searches and used the search function on here and SN and called out to mates. I have a 1993 wrx wagon that now has a pile of bits sitting in the corner of my room. The most recent addition being a TD05 turbo, low miles, no play and working actuator. This friday some mates and myself will be fitting 3 bar map sensor, upgraded coil packs, pfr7 spark plugs, ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested yellow injectors, walbro fuel pump, decat up pipe, possibly removing the internals of my sports cat, the TD05 and the crown jewel, a new ESL board which will hopefully be here by then with a TD05 map on it. In preparation I have purchased new gaskets for the up pipe, the down pipe, new injector seals. The heat shrink rubber coating for the wiring, Tesa tape. Can anyone think of anything else I may have missed, or is there any parts that may not cope with being taken off and need replacing when removing the TD04. Whilst writing this I have just thought of the turbo bolts. The car is booked in with Bob Rawle on the 5th, and I cannot wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 I found this Quote Fitting the turbo and up pipe is pretty handy but 1st buy new turbo nuts and a few bolts as well as maybe 2 studs if you dont use them all the better but theres nothing worse that realising you have to cut a nut or a thread is damaged. Best looking at it than for it. The main pita with the turbo is the oil return. Remove exhaust manifold inspect and heat wrap ( while its off ) remove down pipe 5 bolts / studs and where it fits to centre section ( just makes life easier ) remove intake system filter maf etc loosen the 3 bolts that fix the turbo to the block remove oil feed, water hoses and boost pipes s**** oil feed and get a braided one ( ebay ) Some of the bolts will be a real pain but thats why you buy a few spares dont be afraid to cut them off it can save you alot of time. remove bolts from block and lift away refit in reverse order Theres nothing really difficult at all but do expect to skin a few knuckles and if you have a swear box it will get filled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 If you've got phase 2 yellows you'll need phase adapters to fit them into your phase 1 fuel rails .If your up pipe is original you'll probably snap or round off a few nuts and studs , so definitely worth having a few new bolts , studs and nuts .Use oe gaskets not cheap eBay ones . Might want to renew the turbo oil line banjo bolt copper washers, as they're cheap and its off .Be careful with the "flexi elbow " intake pipe that attaches to the top of the turbo . As these get quite brittle and are a pain to find in good condition second hand. You'll loose a bit of coolant , so you'll have to top up and possibly bleed it .The new map sensor will probably not be calibrated in the esl base map . So might have to be fitted by bob on the day .Once you've fitted everything pop the crank sensor off and turn it over a few times to get oil round the turbo lines ,before start up .Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 The advert says they are phase 1 injectors, so i believe they are a straight fit. The up pipe is original, and i remember the drama trying to get the original down pipe off so i am currently trying to source the correct studs and bolts etc. I have bought all oe gaskets. I am looking at buying new oil return pipe and gasket and oil feed with banjo bolt and washers as seen several posts that said they struggled with them. The "flexi elbow" intake pipe, thats not the one that the oe recirc valve attaches to is it? Because im currently looking for one of those as it has split where the recirc valve attaches Ah ok, I didnt know about the map sensor, Bob said to fit everything and drive off boost, the oe ECU would learn slightly to be safe for one journey to swindon as he doesnt have fitting facilities. But its not the oe ecu is it, im not sure if the ESL learns to adjust things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 If the injectors have a long brownish tip the same as the greys you remove they'll be a straight fit up to v4 .Id just try it with the standard map sensor first , see how it runs off boost , then try the 3 bar one .the ecu would learn a certain ammount but unless you asked andy at esl to add the yellows to the base map , i wouldn't drive it unnecessarily (just to bob off boost if pos ) . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 I think this has the brownish tip you are on about, i did mention to andy at esl that i was fitting yellows and the 3 bar sensor and had to drive to bob. Wether he adds them to the map or not i dont know so will take your advice. Thank you very much, you have been very helpful over the last year, i appreciate it 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 No problem bud, always glad to see early classics getting looked after [emoji106] Yep they're phase 1 injectors and will drop straight in your rails with new o rings [emoji6]Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.