Swino Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi guys I've got a oil leak cant see where it's coming from but after cleaning the bottom of engine and running it can see it running down the back of the sump so thinking sump gasket or rear crank so ordered both but before I pull engine is there any other seals I should change at same time thanks Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandals Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Rocker cover gaskets would be worth changing as they are easy to do if the engine is out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swino Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Did them both a couple months back when engine was out the last time :) just hoping to make this the last time engine comes out until got new engine sorted Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattb Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 There’s an oil separator plate to the right of the rear crank shaft. The early ones were plastic with Philips screws. The upgrades are metal with hex bolts. The early ones can start leaking over time. You fix one oil leak and another starts... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swino Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 That's what I've found fix one and another starts so I've just left this one for awhile don't really use any oil as it's very small leak but just getting annoying now leaving marks on drive guessing mine will still be Phillips screws with plastic cover so will look at changing it thanks Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Good shout on both oil separator plate and cam cover gaskets/ half moons [emoji106]From the factory the sump is just sealed with liquid threebond (no gasket) but I'd suggest to upgrade to a group n cork sump gasket .If you do change the rear crank seal ffs dont push it in too far (just flush with chamfer). if you do push it in too far it will block the return to sump channel and leak like fook when it get up to temp...... trust me I've been there lol Check the clutch and flywheel spigot bearing for wear too [emoji6] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.