Turnerdv10 Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 I’ve got a wrx sti Hawkeye . I’ve enclosed some photos to try and identify all the oil leaks . I guess one is the sump gasket . The others ? It’s not loosing any power steering fluid . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Could be avcs line leaks at the front of the engine , have a look at the banjo bolts that connect the lines to the block . Could also be cam or crank oil seals , remove the plastic cambelt covers and have a look . If you've got oil inside the cambelt covers , try and get it sorted sooner rather than later. As it might affect the belt ,tensioner and idler pulleys and cause the belt to fail or slip a tooth . It might just be oil leaking from elsewhere dripping down the block to make it look like the sump is leaking . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turnerdv10 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 Just about to remove front cover as think it’s one of those seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turnerdv10 Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 The oil pump was loose and was incorrectly fitted by garage or previous owner . Now it’s still leaking from above the centre engine cradle just below power steering rack . I’m hoping it’s the sump . What’s the quickest way to change the sump gasket as mine hasn’t got the exhaust manifold round it and looks straight forward . Do I still have to remove the subframe to be able to jack it up to get to the rear bolts on the sump ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Unfortunately i haven't had to remove a sump while the engines in situ , so can't really be much help. I think it can be done in situ , maybe mr b can help with that though ? I can tell you that subaru only use liquid gasket sealer (threebond) to seal the sump on from the factory . I tend to use a group n cork sump gasket , although some say the only reason you should use those is if you think the sump will need to be removed again . Mine has done nearly 40 k without leaking and thought I'd mention it , as if you're gonna try to fix it in situ it might be difficult to get everything oil free (for the sealant to take) and a neat bead of sealant to stay in place while refitting . Id definitely suggest you give the camshaft oil and avcs seals on that side a good check to make sure they're not leaking , as if they've done the oil pump (wrong) they might have done the other seals at the same time , with the same shoddy workmanship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turnerdv10 Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Sump all done . I found the other leak . 3 bolts had been cross threaded (I wondered why 3 were they easy to undo unfort didn’t realise till I put new sump on with something stronger than 1215 . So had to improvise but worked . I didn’t use the gasket in it in the end . My thoughts it left the factory without so doesn’t need it so going to put this one up for sale . Also when doing the timing belt it was out as car runs a lot better now . Cheers for all ya help . Onto next prob soon front and rear shocks knocking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 No problem bud, glad you've sorted (most of ) the issues and hope it hasn't put you off scoobs . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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