davidtraxler Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 05 Outback from the UK and I’ve got an issue with my factory fitted alarm. The alarm keeps going off randomly. Literally randomly, I can still start the car, still drive around - all the while the alarm sounds for about 30 seconds stops for 10 then starts again. I’ve yet to make it stop through anything I’ve done. It stops just as randomly as it starts, any ideas where to start with the problem? Car Battery is new and reads 12.1 V No clue where to look now, I’m also not having any luck getting my car into Valet mode which I hoped would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmamba Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 When it sounds, are there any door open icons on the dashboard (small display above the speedo/tach)? May be faulty bonnet plunge switch. May be failing alarm Battery (9v rechargeable, built into the siren, located under the cowl, hear the nearside wiper mounting). Do you know the 4 digit PIN for the alarm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidtraxler Posted December 16, 2018 Author Share Posted December 16, 2018 I know the pin, but I can’t find instructions on what to do with it 😅 I’ve fiddled with all of the door switches(no door lights come on). I’ve checked the bonnet plungers and removed the rubber seals to make sure they were travelling freely. Havent checked the actual alarm unit. Are there any instructions anywhere on removing the cowl? I had a look and can’t seem to see a way in... Doesnt help that it’s pitch black and raining. Battery is removed for the night. Guess I’ll find a way into the alarm tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 First observation is Battery voltage low, 12.1v is 65-70% disharged . Other observation is don't turn alarm on, lock car with key in lock cylinder and see if alarm goes off (should not and would indicate fault including low voltage issue from car batt or siren backup 9v pp3 ) . View the user manual below as give you tips on isolating internal motion sensor and viewing what set alarm off if you lucky . They very easy alarms swap out used modules and program and siren can be opened up for Battery replacement . Read the manual and see how you get on ... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidtraxler Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 So if I read all this correctly, after re-attaching my Battery. I need to... Lock, unlock the car then enter the following on the PIN Pad: * 17856 * 38 # then the dashboard LED should blink, 1,2,4,8, or 16 times to tell me what is triggering the alarm. If all of that fails, I need to lock the car manually (without the remote) and see if the alarm still goes off. If it does, it's a chance that it could be a low voltage issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 I would charge your Battery, refit and lock car with fob button then after next false alarm event use the diagnostics to see if get a last trigger status . Trigger status is going dictate what diagnosis you do probably but do realise that poor voltage will make alarm functions and diagnostics unreliable so don't overlook the basics of cars Battery power including some visuals of alarms wiring for water/corrosion damage etc . Regardless of results of diagnosis I would also do a test of locking car with key after car been unlocked and running. With the car locked via key your car should not have alarm on unless someone set it to auto arm (auto arm is off by default and best off as good way lock yourself out lol) point here is with alarm off and no auto arming if alarm goes off it more likely internal fault or perhaps voltage level fault You can also alarm car and have the ultrasonics disabled which good way rule them out The alarm measures voltage, it has audible bleep for low voltage warning and function of viewing voltage via LED blinks . Low voltage (car Battery or siren battery) can cause issues and as your new Battery low I would do some diagnosis on battery charging, parasitic draw before going deeper into alarm modules wiring . Do note this just my assumption based on your 12.1V reading of new battery, use your own gumption to conclude why battery may of been low at time you checked it . Most faults we see on these are bonnet switch, main module board gone bad or siren battery failure or water damage . Used parts are pretty cheap and diy fixable, if do need buy replacement used module be sure comes with 4 pin code or a working remote at the least . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidtraxler Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 So tried to sort it tonight, and I cheated my way to success. I couldn’t remove the nearside wiper so I just wedges the cowl open so I could access the alarm unit. Removed the alarm and everything “looked good” no signs of corrosion. I neglected to check the voltage of the Battery, as the car was working fine - the alarm was just going off. So I unplugged the speaker/siren in the unit, reconnected the main Battery and the car started up just fine. Went through a series of locking and unlocking then starting and restarting the car and went for a drive. No alarm. Im sure I’ve just kicked a problem down the road. But hopefully next time it’ll be warm and sunny, rather than cold, rainy, and dark. Thanks all for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_general Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 On 12/17/2018 at 7:17 PM, Mr B said: I would charge your battery, refit and lock car with fob button then after next false alarm event use the diagnostics to see if get a last trigger status . Trigger status is going dictate what diagnosis you do probably but do realise that poor voltage will make alarm functions and diagnostics unreliable so don't overlook the basics of cars battery power including some visuals of alarms wiring for water/corrosion damage etc . Regardless of results of diagnosis I would also do a test of locking car with key after car been unlocked and running. With the car locked via key your car should not have alarm on unless someone set it to auto arm (auto arm is off by default and best off as good way lock yourself out lol) point here is with alarm off and no auto arming if alarm goes off it more likely internal fault or perhaps voltage level fault You can also alarm car and have the ultrasonics disabled which good way rule them out The alarm measures voltage, it has audible bleep for low voltage warning and function of viewing voltage via led blinks . Low voltage (car battery or siren battery) can cause issues and as your new battery low I would do some diagnosis on battery charging, parasitic draw before going deeper into alarm modules wiring . Do note this just my assumption based on your 12.1V reading of new battery, use your own gumption to conclude why battery may of been low at time you checked it . Most faults we see on these are bonnet switch, main module board gone bad or siren battery failure or water damage . Used parts are pretty cheap and diy fixable, if do need buy replacement used module be sure comes with 4 pin code or a working remote at the least . I had the same problem with the alarm going off straight after the settle period. I checked most of the above but couldn’t get any sense out of the diagnostics. * 17856 * 38 # didn’t result in the LED on the dash flashing, but the keypad LED started flashing after the first few keystrokes. The last trigger isolation code worked in as much as I could arm the system on the first attempt, but then couldn’t get into the car using the key fob. The only way was to use the key barrel where upon I was back to square one as the alarm went off straight away. I have given up trying to fix it, and only lock it with the key barrel now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cogen6566 Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 I've had the same issue and finally found the alarm sounder. Under the cowl on passenger side (UK). It was surrounded by wet leaves and water. Two fasteners and a snip and its all clear now. Central locking still works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frazwatt Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 Did you just cut the cable from the rear of the siren? Had no issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.