stuartie Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 As some of you will know i repaired the cracked exhaust housing on my turbo yesterday, since then the car has started to overboost slightly, now i kept the original actuator on which was used when the car was mapped, can i adjust the preload on this as it has a fixed shaft with no thread or lock nut, please see pic about what i mean also the pin on the wastegate where the actuator arm fits was larger than the one i took off so had to drill the hole bigger on arm to make fit, any advice is much appreciated 😎👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 On some actuator arms you can just turn the arm and wind it into the diaphragm to shorten it . Just be careful, as if it isn't the wind in type you might damage it ,so look for threads on the arm close to the actuator. Seeing as the wastegate end had to be drilled , are you sure the hot side or wastegate penny is the same size ? Might explain the overboost while using the same core and actuator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 Cool I'll have a check of the rod tomorrow after work, i still have the actuator that came with the 2nd hand turbo and it has an adjustment on the rod so could use that, i never checked if the penny size was the same or not i just assumed it would be as the used turbo i got came off another v1 and it was a genuine top entry, i've seen some youtube vids of having to get the penny hole ported as the hole is so much smaller than the penny it ends up boost spiking before it can open it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 So I just thought ,If the arm had to be drilled that 1 or the other might not be oe spec or as it left the factory. Ive had about 5 top entry oe tdo5's in bits over the years and they've all had the same size hole on the wastegate end , although some had different looking actuators. Maybe a previous owner fitted a new hot side due to the original cracking ? Either way a bit of pre tension or ,different actuator or a map tweek will probably sort it . Just don't use wot in the higher gears to keep the overboost in check 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 Yeah i've been driving kinda gingerly today as to not cause any damage i even sat behind a old lady in her micra and the missus is like whats up with you haha 😂, I'll maybe fit the adjustable actuator that came with the turbo and use the boost gauge to set it to the correct pressure and see how i get on and if that doesn't help I'll go back to see the mapper, thanks for the help matey 😎👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 A wee update, today at work i rigged up a regulator in the airline from the compressor and set it to 10psi, then got my blow gun and worked the actuator through the vacuum port at this pressure not much happened so set it to 14psi or 1bar and the rod started to move slightly but not enough to open the wastegate so decided to up the pressue to 1.2bar or around 17psi as this is what it was mapped to and hey presto the rod came fully out, then fitted wastegate to the turbo and set the spring rate by first of all adjusting the rod out until it fits over the wastegate pin then taking it back off the pin and winding it in 3 turns then pulling the rod out to fit on to wastegate, the car now feels better however i must be getting a spike in boost pressure as it fuel cuts but only for literally a split second so i think i may be going for another trip to the mapper 😎👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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